All Big Six Exhaust Joint

Relates to all big sixes

F-250 Restorer

Famous Member
I needed a joint in my 2.25" dual pipes and used band clamps. They leak and separate when I get on it. Do the V clamps work well, or should I go with the clumsy looking ball and socket type joints?
 

Evan76

Well-known member
Band clamps and slip fit joints work well.

Ball and Socket or flange gasket type joints if in close clearance were pipe can be slid together.

I slip fit all joints, mufflers or any joint expanded to fit over the same size pipe.
 

hodaka100

Well-known member
Weld on v clamps work great. If I had headers I would remove the flat, 3 bolt flange and use v clamps
 
Any joint if done well and not being asked to flex a ton will be fine.

If you are killing 3-bolt exhaust flange gaskets you should probably add a flex pipe before or after the flange.
 

InlineDave87

Well-known member
I had a fire truck that kept blowing off the slip joint on the down pipe of the exhaust… i put it back together 3 different times before i decided to bang on the muffler and got a thud instead of a ringing tink… swapped out mufflers, never happened again
 

King_Kong

Well-known member
Old motor mounts can get mushy & cause exhaust issues. They dont even need to be broken to cause issues.

You can open the hood and start up the engine to see how soft they have become. It will become very evident if they are bad, just by the massive shaking you will see.
You can also (after setting the parking brake & hold the foot brake, of course) put vehicle into 1st and then let clutch part way out to see if thr engine tilts. Then try it in Reverse to see the same....again, the mounts tend to soften badly nowadays before they break, and this is the way to verify if they are causing issues.

Ebay has motor mounts for $18 w/ free shipping.

P.S. All rubber motor mounts today seem to be of same crap quality, whether from Ebay or the auto parts store & wont last as long as the OEM or aftermarket ones of 20 years ago.
 
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F-250 Restorer

Famous Member
P.S. All rubber motor mounts today seem to be of same crap quality, whether from Ebay or the auto parts store & wont last as long as the OEM or aftermarket ones of 20 years ago.
Such is the case with most parts made today.
I will get around to doing the exhaust, converting to the v band clamps, but first I'm converting my wire-feed to mig, and am rounding up the tank and solenoid, etc. My m. mounts 'should' be good. Driver side is oem, and the passenger side is two years old, but it's always best to confirm. I agree. Thanks to all. I'm very tired of it popping through the exhaust.
 

powerband

2K+
VIP
Definitely check out motor mounts and sufficient rubber exh. hangars and flex joints are also essential to maintain seal.

.

Band clamps work well for R & R when maintenance is needed. Slip joints ae superior but I've had no trouble with butt jointing' correct size-for pipe Band Clamps. I always wrap pipe with a bit of "Tiger Tape" fbgls' muffler tape over joint .
.

There is a a type of Band Clamp I've used that has a gooey sealant released in the clamp seam. ( Summit?).
.

"P.S. All rubber motor mounts today seem to be of same crap quality, whether from Ebay or the auto parts store & wont last as long as the OEM or aftermarket ones of 20 years ago."
.. speaking of rubber mounts, there must be a lot of old Falcons and Comets' in Thailand !
60/61 only - Fal/Com MM
"Pinned" for safety : . :cool:

hav e fun
 
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F-250 Restorer

Famous Member
I got tired of the truck farting through the exhaust every time I shift, so I go after it. Until I upgrade my welder, I just took off the band clamps and wrapped aluminum flashing around the joint, then put the clamps back on. Music to ears to not be farting any more (back firing thru exhaust).
 
Of the variety of exhaust and muffler patches sold at the parts store the rubbery black one with brown paper backing that you peel off seems to have the best performance when installed under a beer can and hose clamps. I would not hesitate to install that under a band clamp.
 

King_Kong

Well-known member
I experimented this week with stiffening my drivers side motor mount because the exhaust (& other things) would rattle when letting the clutch out.

I took that "pin" out (circled in pics below) & put a wheel stud through the hole with a lug nut on other side. Then tightened it to firm the rubber section up.

The 2 other mounts are still soft rubber since I still want the drivetrain to have isolation.

Either way, the firmed up mount holds the motor in place so well that their is a noticeable improvement in the M5OD shifting & throttle response.
 

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
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Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
I've done a similar thing - on the driver's side (left) only, since that is the one that gets stretched when the engine torques to the right. I used a lock nut so I could put only a very little preload on the stud without worrying about it loosening up.

Similar in function to installing a torque strap or chain.
 

F-250 Restorer

Famous Member
King Kong and Powerband, thanks for the tips. I wanted to try the black patch that P.B. mentioned, but when I removed the band clamps I found that I had 1/2" gap from one pipe end to the other to my surprise. I tried to move the entire exhaust forward, but it was getting cold and starting to rain, so I wrapped it with the paper thin aluminum sheeting, about 6" wide, and clamped it up. Once I get converted to mig I'll install the V clamps.

Kingkong, thx for the tip about the motor mount.
 

Frank

Well-known member
Supporter 2021
I experimented this week with stiffening my drivers side motor mount because the exhaust (& other things) would rattle when letting the clutch out.

I took that "pin" out (circled in pics below) & put a wheel stud through the hole with a lug nut on other side. Then tightened it to firm the rubber section up.

The 2 other mounts are still soft rubber since I still want the drivetrain to have isolation.

Either way, the firmed up mount holds the motor in place so well that their is a noticeable improvement in the M5OD shifting & throttle response.
Now this is an excellent DIY upgrade, glad to have it. Thanks!
I'm sure we all have some stories of frightening moments when a LH motor mount pulled apart on a hard take off. I've got one, Chevy 350, and my son has one, '72 Chrysler 360.
 

King_Kong

Well-known member
I've done a similar thing - on the driver's side (left) only, since that is the one that gets stretched when the engine torques to the right. I used a lock nut so I could put only a very little preload on the stud without worrying about it loosening up.

Similar in function to installing a torque strap or chain.

I did mine temporarily to see how bad vibrations would be with something stiffer. But my goal is to make a drivers side mount using replaceable rear spring shackle bushings (so I can use rubber or poly) like the Jeep ones below.

However, I believe the grey 4.9 ones might still be for sale. I think "Steve83" is the one that sells them & he is active on other F150/Bronco forums.
 

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King_Kong

Well-known member
I wanted to try the black patch that P.B. mentioned, but when I removed the band clamps I found that I had 1/2" gap from one pipe end to the other to my surprise.

Can you try to push the exhaust the other way & slip a sleeve in between? The sleeves that fit over the outside diameter of both pipes.

I attached a pic of a sleeve with an indent, but you can find one without it. Then just clamp each end. You would have to be able to slide the exhaust backwards enough to finagle the sleeve in there, but you can trim them easily with a grinder if you need an extra inch or so.
 

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