Figured this was a hardcore tech question.

C

CHEVYTOWN

Active member
Would it be possilbe, with the correct jig to prevent chipping the edges and to clamp it in a secure way for safety, to use a 3hp router with a possible CNC milling bit to successfully mill the piston top?

I'm not sure what the max rpm is on the Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp router or if there is even a bit that will.

I've heard of woodworkers using router bits to mill steel.
 
It would be possible, but it wouldn't be necessary to use a 3 horse router. The amount you will be taking off will be tiny. You will not be able to take off much without destroying the piston, the tool, or yourself. No need for a lot of power.

Routers go way too fast for machine work. They usually run 22-25000 rpm. I have a variable speed 3hp Bosch, 8-18000 rpm. Still way too fast. Way, way, too fast. But if you can come up with a bullet-proof jig to hold the parts, and a method of controlling the passes made with the router bit to make a nice accurate surface, taking it nice and slow no more than a few thousandths at a time it possible you could get a few done before you really messed one up.

You'd be reinventing the wheel. Why bother. I have milled aluminum a fair amount with a router bit. Makes me nervous. No way on steel. In my whole career never heard of anyone doing that. Not with a router bit in a router. I guess to be fair I can't say it would be impossible but, wait, I can feel it coming, yes I can. Impossible.

Roger
 
It's actually for a piston from a chainsaw.

Not sure what the material is, but I hear you, the stakes can be REAL HIGH.

I will try it with a junkie first and WILL MAKE SURE TO MAKE A SAFE JIG.

If it works, I'll post pics.

Thank you.
 
Find a way to add coolant to the cutter, cutting dry with aluminum will trash the cutter and the part also. You can go to Radio Shack and get a rheostat to adjust the RPM of the router from 0 RPM-full throttle, that will help adjust the R's to a more safe level for what you are trying to do, and increase your chances of success....
 
It's just an idea I'm pondering.

http://web.mac.com/bluemetal/Blue_Metal_Studio/CAD.html

I did a "no no" on a port job on the 2stroke jug and quite a few people said it would not run. I even gave it a slight free port. I don't think I have to degree it becuase I really did not touch the top of the port. But I hogged out the bottom and sides a bit.

Well, I did a muffler mod on it and it popped on choke like a pist of mountain lion. They said it would not run, but for some reason it is defying logic and odds.

I wanted to drop the jug's squish, but I that's where milling the piston idea came from. How about a palm router? At it's lowest speed. Only problem will be finding a 1/4 bit.

Thank you for your replies.
 
Lowering the quench or "squish" will hurt the power of the cylinder. Since it only has one piston and cylinder to get the job done, you need all you can get. Good job though, looks good....
 
One thing that makes me declare a 2 cycle engine officially dead is loss of compression. Why would you want to head in that direction on purpose? Bet you have a reason, just curious.

Palm routers run the same speed as any other. Are you thinking it will be a problem finding 1/4" shank bits? They are the most common in the weekend woodworker stores. Should be no problem.

If you're going to try it rub a thin layer of soft beeswax on the aluminum and the bit. As you work the aluminum will heat up near the cut, melt the wax and keep the part and cutter lubed without just instantly flying off. Works on tablesaw and chopsaw blades too, smeared around the first inch or so below the teeth. Makes for a much nicer finish. Sharp carbide bits and blades only, take it slow. Stop and add more beeswax if needed. I use the wax from toilet bowl ring. Got a new one at a yard sale for 10¢, lifetime supply, good and soft, sticks real well, melts easy.

Yesterday I was thinking the same thing Joe said, use a file. I didn't mention it because I thought you were working on a set of pistons. But for one little piston at a time a good sharp is what I'd use too. Baby powder on the file teeth will help keep the aluminum from loading up the file. Or you can use aluminum cutting fluid. (Kind of messy.)

Roger
 
CNC-Dude, gracias brother. I got flamed at the chainsaw forum for the porting job, but ended up working out crazy good so far. It kinda piped them a bit. It defied the odds and the logic. To them, it was luck. But it's cool.

It has good compression even after the port job. I tested it by dropping the saw off the rope. It stays on the first drop 3 seconds...drops again to the next stop and 3 seconds...and then drops the final time. I should test it though. Good call.

Just playing Dr. Frankenstein and the folks at this chainsaw place said it would not work. I had to make it work!!! And I was looking for extra power. Like here, we try to find the ultimate balance for our L6's. A supercharger still beckons me.

I never messed with the top of the port too much so I don't think I messed with the stock degree of the exhaust port. I measured 66º for 1/2 of a rotation, so times 2 that would be 132º for stock duration on the exhaust which sounds crazy low. I was expecting in the 60's...

I'm leaving the squish alone and relying on the muff mod and porting.

I left the intake port alone. It looks crazy hot from the factory! Not much porting to be done other than at the bottom of the intake port. But I'm cool for now. It brought back a rush I haven't felt in many years...hand porting.

Thanks again fellas.
 
CHEVYTOWN":2vbqvg4z said:
CNC-Dude, gracias brother. I got flamed at the chainsaw forum for the porting job, but ended up working out crazy good so far. It kinda piped them a bit. It defied the odds and the logic. To them, it was luck. But it's cool.

It has good compression even after the port job. I tested it by dropping the saw off the rope. It stays on the first drop 3 seconds...drops again to the next stop and 3 seconds...and then drops the final time. I should test it though. Good call.

Just playing Dr. Frankenstein and the folks at this chainsaw place said it would not work. I had to make it work!!! And I was looking for extra power. Like here, we try to find the ultimate balance for our L6's. A supercharger still beckons me.

I never messed with the top of the port too much so I don't think I messed with the stock degree of the exhaust port. I measured 66º for 1/2 of a rotation, so times 2 that would be 132º for stock duration on the exhaust which sounds crazy low. I was expecting in the 60's...

I'm leaving the squish alone and relying on the muff mod and porting.

I left the intake port alone. It looks crazy hot from the factory! Not much porting to be done other than at the bottom of the intake port. But I'm cool for now. It brought back a rush I haven't felt in many years...hand porting.

Thanks again fellas.
Click to expand...
Thats how you learn, if you make mistakes....you learn by them! Only people that try....make mistakes! I'll bet your next cylinder will be even better.Thanks for sharing your project with us.
 
Yeah, that is my brush saw. I don't cut any wood with it. Strictly brush. But like you said, I had to start somewhere. I didn't finish the porting as far as smoothing it out. On the 5100 it's going to be a must.

I'm going to port the Dolmar PS5100S. It's Husqvarna's NE346xp's competition. So an awesome job is a must...I will only be widening the exhaust port. I won't hack away at the bottom of the port either. Just a bit of sanding on the sides to widen near the skirt max, then a polish. The intake, I might leave alone. I think I'll just polish it. We'll see.

Thanks again CNC-Dude
 
Looks like you made some good progress! Real good idea to put tape inside cylinder to protect it....good thinkin'! Keep us posted on how it performs, and thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Now you need to find some motocross guys to let you try your craft on their engines, and get a real feel for how it affects something like that!
 
When you got Hot Rod in the blood, it just comes out, right? Whatever the motor.

That's great. Plus, I love the fact that you got something done that everybody else said was impossible. That makes it even better.
 
CNC-Dude":26rnv95i said:
Now you need to find some motocross guys to let you try your craft on their engines, and get a real feel for how it affects something like that!
Click to expand...

I know one fella I can ask...he used to race professionaly back in the 70's with the likes of flying freckles aka jeff ward, bob "the hurricane" hanah(sp), and a few others I can't remember. He has a Suzuki 125 RM. I think I might just convince him. That would be cool.
 
ludwig":1xq7aicg said:
When you got Hot Rod in the blood, it just comes out, right? Whatever the motor.

That's great. Plus, I love the fact that you got something done that everybody else said was impossible. That makes it even better.
Click to expand...

I hear you loud and proud brother ludwig!

Yeah, they are still flamed about it. I guess they thought I couldn't do it. Porting the C10's head was a lot more fun though :D

You know it's motor madness when a motor sits shotgun for a ride.

Thank you. I dig checking this place out because it has some of the coolest and smartest heads around...I trust you fellas a lot.

Rick
 
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