Found a Head

ski4evr

Well-known member
I found a DODE head at a local shop and they want $150 for it (as is). It was previously rebuilt by them (several years ago) and has been just sitting on the shelf collecting dust. It has the larger 1.75" carb hole, ~1.7" inlet and ~1.4" exhaust valves. It does not have the hardened seats. It has a three angle valve job.

Is the hardened seats worth the extra expense? The owner said he would reperform the 3 angle valve job and add the hardened seats for an additional $218. That would take the total to $368. Good deal?

He would also cc one of the chambers to see if the deck needs milling or not (I told him about the cc / head gasket thickness and killing the compression ratio that I've learned about from this forum). Milling the deck would be an additional $48.

The casting number shows up on Mustang Geezer's website under the 170 engines, so hopefully it is a 52 cc head?

The two questions (o.k. three):

Is it a good deal?

Is the extra $218 worth it for the hardened seats?

What carbs will fit the 1.75" hole?

ski
 
Oh...

It also has the larger intake log. It is definitely bigger than the '66 head that I have now.

ski
 
HI SKI4EVR


..... THE DODE HEAD IS A GOOD UPGRADE. IF YOU HAVE THE LETTER A BEHIND THE 6090 THE YOU HAVE A 170 HEAD. (EX: DODE 6090-A, NOT AB). YOU WILL NOT NEED TO MILL THE HEAD FOR A 170 OR THE 200. IF YOU HAVE A 200 WITH THIS HEAD YOU WILL BE AT 9.3-1 COMPRESSION OR BETTER.

.....THIS HEAD HAS AN ADAPTOR THAT GOES WITH IT. WITH THE ADP. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO USE YOU CARB.

..... NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO WITH THE CARB. MAKE SURE YOU MATCH IT TO YOUR DIST. FOR THE ADVANCE YOU WILL NEED.

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL
 
I'm pretty sure that the numbers after the DODE are 6090-A. That is sweet if I don't have to mill the head - wait, I still have to mill the head If I'm using the Felpro head gaskets (non-steel), right? - To get the compression back to 9.3 (or whatever factory was).

ski

As for the dizzy - I have a '71. It has the vac and mech advance. The vac adv runs off of the carb port above the throttle plate (no spark control valve).
 
what is a DODE head...is that the ones mad ein the 70's?

the C heads are 60's..right?
 
Seems like a fair deal to me. I would go ahead with the hardened seats and back cut the intake valves. do it right so you don't have to do it again. Even if you end up spending $400 your dollar/hp ratio will be pretty good. For what it's worth, I'm going to end up spending more than that for a head that will end up being about the same (except ported and polished).
 
I'm using one of these 170 DODE- heads on a 200, mainly because it has 52 cc. chambers (I measured) without any milling and it has the larger intake log with 1.75" intake bore. I also used to think that the closed chambers were a superior design to the open chambers on the 200/250 heads, but I've been told by folks who probably know more than me that the closed chambers shroud the valves too much and are a detriment. Also, these heads only have 1.649 intake valves, not 1.76 intake valves. Trying to put the larger valves in would shroud them even worse unless you open up the chambers. Putting in hardened exhaust seats is not a problem.

170-1.jpg

170-2.jpg

170-3.jpg
 
I'm not sure of the exact measurements, but the owner of the shop used a micrometer and gave me a rough estimate of the valve size. It was ~1.70 inches for the intake and ~1.4x for the exhaust. The head was already assembled. He said the measurements were ballpark without taking the valves out. When looking at the head, there was not much room to put larger valves in. There was less than half the distance between the valves on this head relative to the above pictures of mustang6's. The edges of the valves were also right at the edge of the chambers. It did not look as if larger valves could be put in.

ski
 
Then it sounds to me like someone already put the larger intake valves in. I think that head would be a good buy at $150, although if it were me I would also have the hardened exhaust seats put in.
 
HELLO SKI4EVR


.....YOU WILL NOT NEED TO MILL THE HEAD TO RAISE THE COMPRESSION. THE HEAD HAS A SMALLER 52 CC HEAD. THIS WILL GIVE YOU 9.3-1 COMP. WITH THE .050 HEAD GASKET. WITH THE GASKET YOU HAVE IT WILL GO TO 10.0-1 OR HIGHER. JUST HAVE THEM CHECK TO MAKE SURE IT IS FLAT......!

.....WITH TH 9.3-1 RATIO YOU WILL FEEL MUCH STRONGER TORQUE FROM YOUR MOTOR. IF YOU USE THE THINNER H/GASKET YOU WILL BE AT OR ABOVE THE 10.0-1 AERA. THIS IS MUCH HIGHER THAN IS NEEDED FOR STREET USES. MOTORS RUN MUCH HOTTER IN SUMMER WITH HIGHER COMP./RATIOS. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO RUN EITHER HIGHER RATIO BY JUST CHANGING THE HEAD GASKET. IF YOU MILL TO GET TO THIS YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO LOWER THE RATIO WITHOUT MAKE LARGE CHANGES. YOU ALSO DON'T KNOW IF IT HASN'T ALREADY BEEN MILLED.

.....HOLD OFF ON MILLING AS YOU HAVE SOME VERY GOOD OPTIONS AT HAND AND SHOULD WORK TO YOUR NEEDS.

.....THE CARB ADAPTOR CAN BE FOUND AT THE JUNKYARD. THEY RUN ABOUT $5.00. THE BEST CARB. FROM FORD WOULD BE 1965-67 240 CU.IN. CARB. PART # C7AZ-9510-AA. IT IS A 1.29 VENTURI. COMPARED TO THE 1.100 THAT COMES ON OUR CARS. YOU WILL PLUG THE ADVANCE SWITCH FOR YOUR DIST. THIS WILL GIVE ONLY VENTURI ADVANCE, NOT THE MANIFOLD ADVANCE THAT CAME WITH YOUR OLD DIST. ON JETTING THE CARB IT WILL BE CLOSES OUT OF THE BOX. IT SHOULD HAVE A 63 1/2 JET. A 65 JET WILL GIVE ABOUT A 13.1 AIR TO FUEL RATIO AND WILL STILL GIVE SOME KIND OF MILEAGE.

.....THIS HEAD AND THESE MOD'S WILL GIVE YOU SOME GOOD EXTRA POWER, BUT WILL NOT STOP THE THIRST FROM MORE ,AND MORE,AND MORE POWER. BUT FOR THE MONEY YOU WILL GET VERY GOOD RETURNS AND MORE FUN DRIVING.

LOTS OF LUCK....LOL

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL
 
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