Integrity reveals character.Shame can be suffered at length alone, but regret can be had for a lesser price. A purse of regret I can endure....but the bindings of shame I cannot
Integrity reveals character.Shame can be suffered at length alone, but regret can be had for a lesser price. A purse of regret I can endure....but the bindings of shame I cannot
Pontus, I mauled mine getting it off and bought one on ebay- for the 5.0 V8. It had a slightly different diameter. I think the difference was less than 10% slower WP speed than stock. No overheating issue, works fine. Original belt worked as well. The center hole matches the pump, but I had to widen out the 4 stud holes slightly, the pattern was a few thousands narrower than the 300 pump pattern. Was years ago, sorry I can't be more specific. Been in service for 75,000 miles without a hitch. PS- Just checked ebay, there are several used ones for 5.0 . Posted one, this pulley will work with the mods I mentioned.Does anyone have a spare serpentine water pump pulley kicking around? I can't find one locally, and ebay/internet isn't any help either. My motor didn't come with one.
Thanks, I might try that, although I don't like the idea of modifying something that spins without knowing if it was balanced. But that one looks to be a lot more complicated than the original which is simply a cup. Also, the middle hole doesn't look big enough. I was wondering if this one or this one would work, but none of the part numbers of these pulleys match up to the ones for the 4.9L. I see a lot of part numbers with 8509, but none match the E7TZ, F0TZ, or F4TZ prefixes. But everything 8509 looks like it will fit, mostly for 5.4L and 4.0L from late 90's early 2000s. I think I'll just blow the $20 to see if it works.Pontus, I mauled mine getting it off and bought one on ebay- for the 5.0 V8. It had a slightly different diameter. I think the difference was less than 10% slower WP speed than stock. No overheating issue, works fine. Original belt worked as well. The center hole matches the pump, but I had to widen out the 4 stud holes slightly, the pattern was a few thousands narrower than the 300 pump pattern. Was years ago, sorry I can't be more specific. Been in service for 75,000 miles without a hitch. PS- Just checked ebay, there are several used ones for 5.0 . Posted one, this pulley will work with the mods I mentioned.
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87 88 89 90 91 92 93 FORD MUSTANG 5.0 L. WATER PUMP PULLEY OEM | eBay
WATER PUMP PULLEY OEM. FITS 87-93 FORD MUSTANG 5.0 L.www.ebay.com
That looks a lot better than the later cup style. PM sent, and many thanks!I could mail you mine from a 88 e250. I have a good u-pull it near me if i ever change my 85 to serpentine.
Well my info wasn't very helpful. Mine is a '90 with original style WP. Did not know they changed it, and it's too long ago for me to remember details on mine. The balancing was not an issue because the center hub fit snug on the snout. In my case the larger diameter did not affect cooling performance. I do have a large 4-core rad though.That looks a lot better than the later cup style. PM sent, and many thanks!
Edit: On second thought, that one looks WAY wider than the later models which will negate the increased flow of my new flowkooler pump. I thank you very much for the offer though. There is just one 4.9L at my local junkyard which I know still has pulleys, but I live in Wisconsin, so every bolt was locked up with rust last time I tried to get something off of that motor. Maybe I'll try again if the 5.4L pulley doesn't work out.
Had my first class last night. Apparently, I'm pretty good at TIG welding. I heard the teacher telling others how to do better, came to me and said, "Very good!" I didn't do any weld until I was comfortable with the movement thru the entire weld, which was the most difficult part tbh, especially when I started using filler.During the Arab oil embargo in 1973 I got laid off from Ford, like thousands of engineers.
Took a night welding course at the local community college.
At the end of the course the instructor said, "You're pretty good. How'd you like to teach this class next semester?"
I moonlighted teaching - and learning! - every manor of welding for the next seven semesters. That paid for two race cars.
You just never know. Getting laid off for 11 months was the best thing that ever happened.
had some serious spots in my eyes though. Not sure I trust an autodarkening helmet.
Maybe some of the others with more experience can comment if the pump has a speed limitation. I dont mean the bearings but some pumps can cavitate, can the water pump in a car suffer from cavitation if it's spun up past a certain speed?
I got the motorcraft tensioner purely because it had a proper socket for relief. I don't wanna be screwing around with some spring in the tight confines of a second gen van hood. Glad I did now after reading that.Philford said the third time he replaced the tensioner it quieted... Same as my conclusion on my 88 van to blame the tensioner and only buy a ford one. He must of got 2 bad ones maybe. My opinion is to use a 3G alternator (more charging and run with one wire, no external regulator, it didn't increase any belt squeel for me) and try the water pump with a larger/lower speed pulley. With a good large radiator (salvaged from a 5.0 van and modified the hoses to fit) I cant even get my stock vans as warm as i want regardless of trying new 195 thermostats. When i had the electric fan i don't even think it ever turned on unless i was idling a long time in 100 degree weather. The original rad in my base model no ac 88 van would always run hot when under load. I think the point of having an efficient water pump would be to let it turn slower, especially if the max engine rpms are being increased.
Agreed. As I said earlier, the 5.0 WP pulley I installed on the Advance Auto WP is shaped exactly as the original, but turns 10% slower, being slightly larger in diameter. I replaced the rad when I bought the truck and got an exact fit replacement. It is a 4 tier, and I can't get to a stable thermostat temp in winter, and never have overheating issues in summer deep-south heat and AC on. 95% of my driving is under 1700 rpm. A larger pulley will not run hot if the rest of the system is correct.Philford said the third time he replaced the tensioner it quieted... Same as my conclusion on my 88 van to blame the tensioner and only buy a ford one. He must of got 2 bad ones maybe. My opinion is to use a 3G alternator (more charging and run with one wire, no external regulator, it didn't increase any belt squeel for me) and try the water pump with a larger/lower speed pulley. With a good large radiator (salvaged from a 5.0 van and modified the hoses to fit) I cant even get my stock vans as warm as i want regardless of trying new 195 thermostats. When i had the electric fan i don't even think it ever turned on unless i was idling a long time in 100 degree weather. The original rad in my base model no ac 88 van would always run hot when under load. I think the point of having an efficient water pump would be to let it turn slower, especially if the max engine rpms are being increased.
If you only plan to do steel and Stainless steel, and not Aluminum, then you can lower your welder acquisition cost by getting a DC only inverter welder.Had my first class last night. Apparently, I'm pretty good at TIG welding. I heard the teacher telling others how to do better, came to me and said, "Very good!" I didn't do any weld until I was comfortable with the movement thru the entire weld, which was the most difficult part tbh, especially when I started using filler.
I told him about my project, and he said we might get to stainless by the end of class, it's really complicated, etc... but pointed at me and assured me I'd learn it and get my project done. Told me to get my exhaust mocked up and bring it in next week. YAY!
But my excitement to go on welding after class came to an abrupt halt when I looked up the welders they were using and after learning what I need to do stainless.$4800 is the low end. I can get an old transformer based one for sale locally (a couple of them actually), but I do not have the power requirements without doing some rewiring. Damn things require an 80A breaker and needs to be hard wired because there's no common plugs that can handle that. There's of course cheaper options, but they either don't have the features I need (AC and pulse) or they're cheap chinese crap with bad service.
Here's my first filler weld. I tossed my first autogenous welds (no filler), but they were pretty good after a few initial runs. I had some serious spots in my eyes though. Not sure I trust an autodarkening helmet.
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