head re-torque. Have leak

franko66

Well-known member
I just bought a used engine. The person I bought it from said that the head had been redone and had about 1000 miles on it. I have placed an additional 1000 miles on it since. I noticed a small area where my paint was fading at the head gasket just below the two center spark plugs. I wiped and repainted the area. It came back again. Is it worth trying to check or retorque the head bolts again to get the small leak to quit. If I do, should I just use the tightening sequence and check and tighten them down to 75 lbs torque. Its wierd because this seemed to happen after I replaced my leaky exhaust manifold gasket with a remflex gasket. I was all happy , it runs good and now this. I dont want to drive it anymore until I see what I can do with the problem. I am afraid that it will just get worse.
If I do this and the leak is still there should I try some Barrs stop leak. I dont want to invest a lot of money and time as I dont have a whole lot of money at the moment.
 
Just a little coolant leak? Or a little oil? These engines tend to seep at the head gasket just a bit. If it's not running hot and it's running smooth don't even worry about it, check the water and the oil every few days.
 
That and a little dab, dab and psst, psst before the car show. Just like the big boys.
 
Its coolant. The smallest trace right now. tonight I pulled the valve cover and retorqed\ checked the head bolts.A few were a little off. I torqued them at 75 to 80 lbs\ft. I dont know if this will help or if I really should'nt worry about it. I am thinking trying a little Barr's stop leak but if you guys think It is common to have small leaks at small areas along the head then I feel a little better. It runs well. I am going to replace the valve stem seals also.3 seals are shot, 3 other seals were riding high off of their position. I pricked the rest of the seals and they are hard, When I replace the seals and push the umbrella seals down what keeps them from riding up on the stem ? Should I clean the mating surface between the head and the seal dry and clean or put a small amount of oil on and then press the seal down?
 
I would say don't worry about that little bit of coolant, better a little seepin' out then it being clogged with all that stop leak! You shouldn't worry about it, especially if it's been driven for that long on that head gasket already. You'll be fine. =) Happy driving. Hopefully someone else answers your valve stem question 'cause I'm on my way out of here!
 
I just posted the same Q about the torque and mating surfaces. Regarding the valves stem seals, mine were dry-rotted and stuck to the valves at various heights. I replaced them and eliminated my smoking issue. Some of them still cling to the valves, as they are free to float, but not excessively high like before. I too would avoid Barrs if it is only a cosmetic leak.
 
I just posted the same Q about the torque and mating surfaces. Regarding the valves stem seals, mine were dry-rotted and stuck to the valves at various heights. I replaced them and eliminated my smoking issue. Some of them still cling to the valves, as they are free to float, but not excessively high like before. I too would avoid Barrs if it is only a cosmetic leak.
 
8) it wouldnt hurt to retorque the head bolts now that you have a few heat cycles in the engine. you are probably getting a bit of seepage from the threads on the head bolt though as you probably did not use a little sealant on the threads did you?
 
I never installed the new head gasket, It was already installed when I bought the motor, Do any of you think its worth pulling the valve cover back off and removing the head bolts one at a time and applying sealant to the head bolt threads and re-torqing them?
 
to me with the metal shim gasket i think retorquing in the right sequence might help and can't hurt.with the metal gasket theres nothing to blow out.
 
Back
Top