Here's my Machinist Checklist, waiting on estimate today.

[Anonymous]

I wanted to copy this in for everyone to see, this is a copy of the checklist I gave the machinist yesterday. He is supposed to call me today with an estimate.... Let's see what he says.

I just wanted to let you guys look this over in case I missed something. Some things are not final yet, he is going to be measuring and cleaning for a couple of weeks he said before we can start.

Head:
Aussie 2v Intake and head:
Stock specs:
Valve Heads: 1.649" Inlet, 1.388 Exhaust.
Valve Stems: 0.3421" Inlet, 0.3416" Exhaust.
Lengths (measured, not ex-manual): 4.266" Inlet, 4.278" Exhaust.
Tip length (measured, again): 0.2185" Inlet, 0.2244" Exhaust
CFM 176 Int / 108 Ex

Work to be done:
Install Stainless US valves w/brass guides: 1.75 Intake and 1.5 Exhaust.
Performance Double Springs, retainers, keepers
Moly Pushrods
1.65 Roller Rocker Arm Assembly
(Oil through Lifters and matching Rods for Rockers)
Install Exhaust Port Divider
Reface intake and Exhaust surfaces


Block:
Intended CAM specs:
Adv 268/274, 208/218@ 0.50, .460 lift 110° lobe centers.
Intended CR = 9.4:1

Work to be done:
Install new Pistons, 6.5cc cast dish pistons (Bore cylinder to achieve CR and clean wall, polish piston surface.)
Deck block to 0, mill head to achieve CR, check for valve clearance with total lift
Clevite main and Rod bearings
Crank Spooned, indexed and polished
ARP rod bolts
Moly Rings
Install Gear Drive
Balanced

Other information:
T5 transmission, gears 3.97/2.34/1.46/1.00/0.79/3.70R
Rear ratio: 3.20:1
Wheel 15X7/14X7 with – 205/60R-15 or 215/14 for the smaller wheel.

 

[Anonymous]

Can any of you with machinist experience give me an idea on a fair bid for this work?

I have not gotten the call back yet, but I am curious.

I am doing final assembly, but they are doing mock assembly and it will come back to me in a mock assembly, I can remove the head to install, then put it back together...


Just wondering and waiting....

 

[twentyover]

Not wanting to appear too anal about this, but there is no such animal as Chrome-moly rings. Chromium nd Molbdenum are alloying elements of steel use to give it deep hardness and consequent greater strength.

Basic rings are cast iron. These are modified by the following methods:

Chrome rings- These rings have Chroumium plated on the bore face of the ring to increase hardness. These rings are typically used in dusty or poorly filtered envirornments

Moly rings- These rings have a thread of Molybdenum (actual composition unknown- it may be moly enriched metal) imbeded in the bore face of the ring. These rings are good for cars heading big distance between rebuilds- I've heard of cases where 50,000 mile engines still show last hone marks on the cylinder. These rings are recommended for street use.

Chrome rings have a bright shint face on the bore side of the ring. Moly rings, on close inspection, will show the moly groove in that face of the ring. IIRC, Moly rings are used exclusively on the top compression ring (someone correct me here if i'm wrong.) Ring selection is important because Chrome and moly rings may have different bore surface finish requirements. Contact the ring manufacturer if it's not in the information packet.

Mostly I'd say stick with Moly rings for s street or filtered race car

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the lesson in metals... I knew about the some of those concepts, but I am new at this and learning all the time.... any information I can get to make me look less like an idiot the better...