Holley Cow, I'm stuck again

[BIGREDRASA]

So I got the headers on, finally. I was going to take my time in rebuilding either the Carter YF or Holley/Weber, before swapping to DS II and new(er) carb. Surprise, gas is shooting out of the top of the accel pump. Besides, the linkage is on the floor inside, and on top of the header outside. I hate to mod the linkage for the Autolite 1100, then have to do it again for the HW.

So, who has a simple solution for modding the linkage? I do want to retain my kickdown linkage. It looks like I can't even get it out without bending or cutting it.

Of course, to top things off, I'm suffering from the Nebraska Crud, which keeps me awake coughing, even though I'm now sleeping sitting up.

If you have pics of your elegant Mustang solutions, please email: Tony-Salazar@excite.com . I'm planning to put together a comprehensive but simple sticky on these various swaps.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Can you post us a pic of how the linkage is set up now.. Might just need a longer rod from the fire wall out to the pivot??
Tim

 

[BIGREDRASA]

The one piece rod is roughly Z shaped with 2 90* bends. The carb end is roughly 16", the firewall link is 16", and the pedal end is about 9". I know there are cable linkages out there, but I can't picture how to then hook up the kickdown linkage.

 

[CobraSix]

Go with a cable and be done with the headaches forever!

 

[ludwig]

What about the kickdown lever to the trans if you go with cable?

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

Not sure on another 1bbl but on the holley 2300 lokar makes a kit to adapt the kickdown.

 

[ludwig]

Here's my solution for the 1100. Make a mark on the linkage rod just back of where it bumps into the last header pipe. Disconnect the kickdown lever and remove the linkage. The z-rod must be re-bent so that it lies completely flat on a flat surface. Bend the carb side at your mark so that it runs flat over to the carb throttle. It doesn't have to be completely flat. The adjustable linkage clip will take up the distance.

One of the other guys did the same thing but he re-cut the middle part and brazed it instead of bending to make it lay flat.

(So that's what I have: the Nebraska crud. Makes sense because I was in Iowa last week. Ha ha.)

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Here's my solution for the 1100. Make a mark on the linkage rod just back of where it bumps into the last header pipe. Disconnect the kickdown lever and remove the linkage. The z-rod must be re-bent so that it lies completely flat on a flat surface. Bend the carb side at your mark so that it runs flat over to the carb throttle. It doesn't have to be completely flat. The adjustable linkage clip will take up the distance.

That's about what I had figured. I'm thinking to do a template for the current setup, then bend the bar near the firewall so the end has about 2 1/2" travel without hitting the tubes. The thing is that this is temporary, until I can get the HW rebuilt.

I will be selling the Holley 1100 Carb with the Load-A-Matic dizzy with Pertronix 1 Kit in it.

 

[ludwig]

The good thing about these z-bar linkages is that there are just as many of them around as there are sixes. Go get a pile from the junkyard so you'll have a spare if the first one doesn't work out.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

The good thing about these z-bar linkages is that there are just as many of them around as there are sixes. Go get a pile from the junkyard so you'll have a spare if the first one doesn't work out.

Hah! My junkyard is just about closed down. I'll have to start checking in Omaha.

Can I get the bar hot enough to bend with a propane torch?

 

[ludwig]

Probably everybody will say no, but I did.

 

[66200i6]

I put this together a few years ago.

http://home.comcast.net/~tuckerjr3/head ... nstall.htm

This method allows you to change back and forth as long as you can tac weld.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Rasa, how good does that carb run? I need quick pump action on it, my accel pump in my 1940 is just about crapped out. And how much do you want for it? I don't need the dizzy, I'm already pimped out with DSII. Hah. =)

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Rasa, how good does that carb run? I need quick pump action on it, my accel pump in my 1940 is just about crapped out. And how much do you want for it? I don't need the dizzy, I'm already pimped out with DSII. Hah. =)

Carb was excellent until I fired it up. Now it shoots gas out of the accel pump. I'll fix it before I sell it. Don't know what it will fetch.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

OK, somebody suggested getting a mini starter to get a little more distance from the header. Which specific year, model, engine combo hi tork ministarter will fit (with auto trans)?

 

[BIGREDRASA]

To close this linkage issue, at least for me. By using 400 lbs. of Nebraska beef, 200 on each end, with judicious application of Brogans, Z-bar can be bent by hand. I simply applied a piece of pipe on the carb end, while my son stood on the main length and the pedal end.

 

[grocery getter]

To close this linkage issue, at least for me. By using 400 lbs. of Nebraska beef, 200 on each end, with judicious application of Brogans, Z-bar can be bent by hand. I simply applied a piece of pipe on the carb end, while my son stood on the main length and the pedal end.

Tony.....i've got to call you out on the starter. what did you end up with ?

 

[mysavioreigns]

man...for the linkage I just used a piece of bar stock 3"x.75", drilled three holes in it, and bolted it up as an "extension" to the stock. Easily removable, works great.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Tony.....i've got to call you out on the starter. what did you end up with ?

Chrome paint on my old unit.

Our blocks use three attaching bolts, at about 7, 10 and 1 O'clock. The two bolt units use the 7 and 1 O'clock holes. The starter drive hump sits between 10 and 1 on the stock stater, and the solenoid sits at 2 O'clock on the minis.

The "clocking" or "indexing" of the affordable mini starters is wrong for my application. I know there's a High Mounted Starter and a Low Mounted Starter engine block/bellhousing. I assume I have the "High" one. There are starters out there that allow changing the "clock" setting, but they run about $200, and are not available in town without special order. I'll keep checking with a couple of sources in Omaha.

 

[grocery getter]

Tony.....i've got to call you out on the starter. what did you end up with ?

Chrome paint on my old unit.

Our blocks use three attaching bolts, at about 7, 10 and 1 O'clock. The two bolt units use the 7 and 1 O'clock holes. The starter drive hump sits between 10 and 1 on the stock stater, and the solenoid sits at 2 O'clock on the minis.

The "clocking" or "indexing" of the affordable mini starters is wrong for my application. I know there's a High Mounted Starter and a Low Mounted Starter engine block/bellhousing. I assume I have the "High" one. There are starters out there that allow changing the "clock" setting, but they run about $200, and are not available in town without special order. I'll keep checking with a couple of sources in Omaha.

yep, I read something on vmf about a potential group buy @ $200.00 on a clockable unit.

CI has a shiney one @265.00