Holley-Weber 2bbl carb swap

M

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
I know quite a few people have done this swap, but I have never actually seen a "how-to" writeup. Is there one on the web somewhere? I see that the "kit" can run you about 100 bucks, which is awesome. I was looking at this post here: http://www.fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42811

and it helped a lot with seeing it, but I am still unsure of a couple things:
does the spacer on the intake stay there, or is it removed?
is the carburetor linkage the same?
anyone that has done this in a 66 mustang, are there clearance issues?

Thanks guys
 
if your engine is also a '66 the hole will be smaller so the adapter its self will be diffrent but hook up the same way. on mine its bolted ontop of the spacer, the bolt holes on the head were too far apart to directly mount it. the stock lnkage on the maverick worked fine but older stangs are a little diffrent. try to get the linkage mine has with the spring loaded tip on the cable and swap it over. what i did was all bo;y on, i didnt have to fab up or swap anything beside a new line between the fuel pump and carb.
 
So, sorry let me wrap my mind around all this...

You have a maverick (guessing from the name :D )

But the 66 mustang engine has a smaller hole than the adapter for sale. Will I need to bore out this hole? hope not...

And you're saying I should go ahead and get the linkage, just in case it doesn't mount up correctly?

Man, I've been staring at those pictures you posted back in April since you posted them, and it looks good. Did you ever decide on an air filter? From looking around, I think there will be enough clearance, but I'm not sure on which air filter I will get yet.

Thanks again!
 
Another thing I am seeing is that I can't seem to find an air cleaner bottom plate which matches the shape of the one on Langdon's Stovebolt site

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartp ... ductid=149

(The adapter/plate he uses is http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartp ... oductid=93)

It seems the ones that have been suggested have more of a square shape - this carb has a more oval shape to it. Thanks,

Stephen


edit: I seem to have found the problem. I think that the carb that Langdon uses is a DGEC, or a DF (I'm not sure), not a DGV. That is the reason it looked too round. So, if I'm correct, this air cleaner should fit, correct?

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/f1005.htm
 
no your hole on your head wont have to be bored out simply bolt the adapter on top. If you live in a cold climate it would be a good idea to keep the heater carb spacer I live in florida so i simply just took the spacer and tapped the pcv valve in the adapter. as far as your linkage goes its really up to you you can adapt your mechanical linkage which is the route i like to make it look a little more stock or you can go and buy a throttle cable which mounts to the firewall. Check out summitt for a drop base air cleaner. Here is a link with some helpful pics aqnd instructions ...


http://home.centurytel.net/fordfan/Falc ... rsion.html
 
I built my own addapter and gain more than a half inch of clearance over the aftermarket option. I used simple tools Drill press and Bimetal blades.

Been running it for a long time with no issues.
I did convert to the Farmont style Cluble and pedal.

Frank
 
machined.jpg

I ended up not trimming the outside of the adpter but you sould make it as close to the size of the carb base as possible. And make sure the accellerator pump arm doesnt bottom out on the adapter.
carbmount.jpg


Frank
 
FrankBoss,

I might do that - a few questions, since I am sort of a newbie when it comes to metalworking and all.

Where did you get that piece of Al? I checked the local hardware store, but they don't have anything that thick. How thick was yours?

Second, I see how you cut the hole in there, but how did you get the two "angled" holes in there? Just turn the drill at an angle?

Last, what did you do to prevent the accelerator pump from hitting?
 
the Alum is 1 inch thick. I bought the two hole saws from Lowes. the Metal was from the Sheet Metal Super Markets one was located in OKC but I've seen some metals from time to time on ebay, or scaps from a machine shop.

the angles I mesures and trimmed wood to prop the peice up in the clamp. a Drill press vice is 5-7 Dollars from Harbor freight.

Once I got the peice built i used a end mill bit to remove the matterial from the bottom of the accell pump. But a hack saw would do as well.

I like my plate it functions great. and the fuel bowl is facing forward so I dont have a lean issue when in hard turns or when I get into the throttle hard.

Good Luck
Frank
 
mysavioreigns":3b9t42cx said:
So, sorry let me wrap my mind around all this...

You have a maverick (guessing from the name :D )

But the 66 mustang engine has a smaller hole than the adapter for sale. Will I need to bore out this hole? hope not...

And you're saying I should go ahead and get the linkage, just in case it doesn't mount up correctly?

Man, I've been staring at those pictures you posted back in April since you posted them, and it looks good. Did you ever decide on an air filter? From looking around, I think there will be enough clearance, but I'm not sure on which air filter I will get yet.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...


hopefully through reading my posts you got an idea what im running :D

its a '76 mav with the original 250/c4.

what i ment by the "hole" was that the carb hole in earlier heads was a little smaller (i believe) so you'll need a diffrent model adapter than i used but it will work the same way. there are quite a few diffrent sized adapters out there so im sure theres one for a mustang lol. the early mustangs have a diffrent linkage than mavericks so that means a little more work on your end. all the stock maverick lingage worked fine though. if you can find it at a bone yard grab it or else your going to have to make something your self. the whole set up really doesnt sit much higher than my original carb. i ended up cutting and hammering the base of the original aircleaner to fit. the hood sits right on it and holds it down in place. do you have an auto trans? i never did hook up a kickdown so i have to do it on the colom when i accelerate hard.

good luck, i really cant think of much else to add but feel free to ask
 
FrankBoss

from looking at your picture, I can't tell if you used the spacer or not. Did you? I don't see how that big piece of aluminum can't fit in there...
 
He's showing you that he didn't need to use the spacer. The mounting block holes are at an angle to the axis of the carb base. His carb base is drawn asymmetrically on the block of aluminum. If you look at the pic carefully, you can see that the long side is away from the engine block and the narrow side is toward the engine block, leaving some space on the other side. Clever way to leave enough meat to connect the throttle cable anchor.
The kickdown is a second and smaller lever just to the side of the shifter lug on the transmission. It is spring loaded and drops the trans into 2nd when you step on the accelerator below 50 mph. The stock throttle linkage bar has a lever attached to it that pulls on a cable to actuate the kickdown. Since he has the cable throttle, he left off the kickdown lever and just pulls it into 2nd by hand. It would take some more research and mechanical input to get a cable kickdown. If you go the salvage route, get the whole apparatus including the kickdown lever, which will be connected to the throttle cable/linkage/gas pedal setup.
 
when your deep in the throttle theres a kickdown lever that automatically downshifts the auto trans. gives you a better pick up. but you can just down shift on the colom
 
I mounted it dirrect tot he intake. No extra spacer. the linkage you see in that pic was temporary. I did take enough pic as I was building it...

but My idea was to turn the carb facing front and mount it as low as possible.
Clearance and function.

Frank
 
Sorry - bringing the post back for a couple more questions...

What about the original use of the spacer - it had coolant flowing through it, if I remember correctly. Is this concept eliminated with the fabricated Aluminum idea?
 
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