Hood Clearance Issues - 1965 mustang, 250 with Autolite carb

eds1965coupe

Active member
I'm getting ready to put a 250 with a modified log head and Autolite 2 barrel in my 65 coupe. I don't see how the hood will ever close. What have you all done for air cleaners, motor mounts, etc. I also will be putting the same style head on my son's 65 coupe with a 200. It doesn't look like it will fit either. I know many of you have done this swap, and your help would be appreciated.

Thanks so much,

Ed
 
I have a great low mileage 77 Maverick with 250 C4 combo that been thinking doing the same type swap into a Falcon or Mustang been hunting for a low buck deal on a body shell. So as yet no direct experience doing the swap, I think you will need to rework motor mounts to lower the engine some. The Maverick air cleaner is lower than many. Good luck with the swap.

Some info on 250 swaps here
http://www.classicinlines.com/250Swap.asp

You might also pickup the ford falcon performance handbook it has some info on the 250 swaps

http://www.classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=73
 
When you say modified log head does that mean the intake has been machined for a direct mount 2 bbl or are you using an adaptor? If using an adaptor then you will most likely have a hood clearance issue, especially with the taller 250 motor. Direct mount is no problem even though hood clearance is tight.
 
I planned my engine build around a weber or at least a taller stack. That said, the first thing I did was install new motor mounts. (Just the part between the cast arm and the block) I used stainless steel plates and then the urethane bushing like you see on the leaf spring mounts. The improvement was awesome. It allowed me to choose 2 different lower settings. I used the 1st setting since it lowered my T5 and kept if from rubbing on the tunnel. Next thing was to take the stock air cleaner bottom and a new 9" Edelbrock 1" air cleaner. I cut the bottom of the stock cleaner out and made 3 tabs to turn up. They catch the element. The Edelbrock top just pops on and the then secured it all with the wing nut. I still have about 1.5" of clearance left. I have my car on CARDOMAIN.. I will repost or put the link in my signature. It has all the mod pictures.

Jim
 
There are were three options, 66Sprinters is a fourth.

Bear in mind that the 250 is exactly 1.666" taller than the 200 with the same engine mounts.

1. If its a 1967, you'll be okay with a direct mount 250 and a the stock base with an aftermarket thin top. There were two differences in the 1967 engine bays to allow the 155 hp (aprrox 99 hp net) L code engines to fit the later engine bays, so 1967-1973 Mustangs might differ in that the L code was technically an option from mid 1967, as the 250 was orginally a Fairlane pickup/Ranchero option which was also added to the Mustang about the time Ford listed the various 302 engine otions (200 HP 302 2bbl, 230 hp 4V, 240hp 302 Tunnel Ram option) .

2. The factory solution for the Mustang based Maverick was to use 1971-1978 Maveric 250 engine mounts, which will retro fit to give you an inch less height on pre 1967 Mustangs.

3. The third, other option is Powerband's mods to the engine mounts.

4. This one 66Sprinters.

The other otions for lowing the air cleaner, and not the engine is to
5. use the remote air filter carb hood that Mike sells, which will get close to clearing the hood. That works with his really nice alloy rocker cover.

6. The Fox body T, B and X code air cleaner for the Holley 1946, its nice and shallow

7. The Australian solution on factory 2V 170 HP M-code Aussie Falcons from 1971 to 1976 was to use a special shallow 1.54" by 10.16" [39 by 258 mm] air filter. That will work with a direct mount carb. With the earlier pre 1965 F-O-R-D rocker cover is half an inch shallower, and combined with a low mount air cleaner and carb, you can maybee get a few inches in your favour that way, but make sure the PCV valve baffled and is not inundated with oil.
 
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