How far forward is the carb from the shock towers?

[xctasy]

I've heard the Fox body with 200 cube I6 has the carb about 3 inches forward of the shock towers. Could anyone with a 200 measure?

This is the dimension here

Background info


I'm rebuilding the 200 cube six I have with an alloy head, very much like Jack Collins.


I'm putting it into my Toyota.

I figure that with an alloy head, the 200 will weigh 348 pounds, which is lighter than the 22R used in the 1982 Corona.

The geometric centre of the 6 cyl engine will be 2.25" further forward than the little 97 cube 2T that's in there now. The 200 six with x-flow head will be lower than the overhead cam 22R, and lower than the 2T.

I'm now going through the certification and engineering report, and need a precendent, and I think the Fox body is it. I'm not going to recess the firewall, as all the strength in the car is there, and I'm using the stock Toyota 4-speed and 2.77:1 gears in the diff.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Well you can see by the first pic that a 200 I6 aint going to fit.. with out alot of cutting .... eather the fire wall or the radiator suport.. as by the placement of the Valve cover the fan is at least 8" to 10" in front of that. Oh the carb is center of the valve cover ,,, has nothing to do with the shock tower...
Tim

 

[xctasy]

Trust me brother, it'll fit nice!

There are a whole range of other engines put into these things, Clevelands, Windsors, Lexus V8's, Holden sixes, Chrylser Hemi 265's.

Stock, they had even had 4 cylinder version of the Holden sixes.

The Mark II Crossmember fits, and so does the power steering and struts, along with the Hilux diff


There's a heap of space up front, and the radiator goes in front, so no cutting. I've got the water pump sorted.

Others just cut the firewall, I don't wanna!

Since I've got weight on my side, how about the Fox body's centre point in the chassis? I know the good old X-bodys are all in line, not sure about the Fox.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

I would notch the firewall.

if you build up the trans tunnel a little larger you can increase the torsional rigity of chassis. A Super7 gets all of its stregnth right there. Build up a roomy trans tunnel and build your notch into that. will be more work but I think it will pay off in the end. I am currently looking at maybe notching my fairlanes firewall ALOT to set the motor back some (will need an S10 tailshaft or something of the short first) if I can slide the motor back about 4-5" I can get it lower on a fox K member (the "front sump0" that houses the oil pump is a tight fit with the rack) I need a larger tunnel anyways and sm working on laying out new floors too (tieing into rocker panels and subframe ties)

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Man Look at your first pic...
The valve cover go's from a couple of inches from the fire wall all the way TO the radiator..... and then you have the water pump and the fan in front of thats another 8 to 10" ... Something is going to have to be cut.
There's alot more room under the hood on the stangs than the toy.
From the back of my valve cover to the front of my fan is 29" on my 200cu. you figure it. mesure from your fire wall to your Raditor. then add a couple of inches for the back of the motor and bell housing. the carb is to the center of the valve cover.
Tim

 

[pedal2themetal45]

???What kind of motor is it you have in the last two pic. in your first post?? it just looks weird... the valve cover you have in the first pic will no way fit that big head you show in the last pic of the first post ??? and whats the Dizzy doing clear up above the intake????? If you have a motor there just mesure it up. :thumbdown:
tim

 

[xctasy]

My bad

Okay, alright aha, oh yeah....


1. The x-flow/US 200 combo needs an 8" tall distributor or the US 1974 small cap duraspark. I don't have the latter, so I've just used a Colonge 1980 small cap electronic versionand added a longer drive shaft to it. I'll probably just use the EF electronic, that will remove any need for a distributor at all. The Engine is just the nice little 200, with a low profile alloy head, just like Jack Collins


2. The rocker cover is American I6, the alloy head is Aussie X-flow. I didn't have my spare rocker cover cause my Falcons are over at my mates place.

3. I guess I don't want to have the engine taken out again because an engineer doesn't like the fact that I haven't done my homework! I know the measurement is 2.25" from spring tower to carb with the I6 in.

4. I think the Fox body six has a 2.25" measure too, Ansulac was saying the I6 was really far foward in the Fox bodies. Linc 200's Turbo pictures sure look like the struts are way way behind the centreline of the engine.

5. I really, really don't want to fillet a rust free piece of crap like this by gas axing and hammering the firewall. Its not a tough piece of heavy Mercury like a Comete, ya know!

If that was the case, I'd just buy another Aussie Cortina. It was designed for an I6.
Normally, Limey Fords are build around there engines, like this

I can run a spring/shock tower brace back to the bulkhead, but I want the engine compartment stock. Remember, the Cressida/Mark II/Supra runs a 3" longer wheel base (all of it in the nose, between the MacPherson struts and firewall, in order to get the 33 inch long I6 ohc engines in the right spot). I don't want to rebate the engine bay, because I'm just using this car as a testbed, not as an M3 beater.

The engine is just 30.5" long, just 5.5" longer than the little 2T engine


I accept what you are all saying, but in this case,
*I have a great deal of clear space out front under the front radiator support, and

*its all braced, and

*the 200 alloy head is lighter than 22R engine, and
*there will be more problems with a tunnel modification because I'll have to cut and shut a whole other piece of metal, and
*Land Transport won't like that at all unless it goes on a chassis jig with torsional ridgitiy measured by hydraulic jacks. In addition, it will have to be part sticked and part seam welded so that, if there was an accident or vibration damage , the whole structure is integrated.

They (LTNZ) are pretty good with engine swaps as long as the engineer can sign off on the reasoning.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

X,

Those fox cars had the motor that far forward for the oil pump to clear the rack (it is a tight fit there) is the Toy a front or rear sump motor? if it is a rear sump motor I will trade you a Fox rear sump pan for a Xflow front sump pan.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

you might get away with it
if you put the water pump and such on after you have the motor instaled, Just remove the gril and reinstall it when done..

 

[xctasy]

Yeah, thanks people. I know its a pretty freaky idea :idea:

Fox body chassis verses I6 250 pan Jack built back in the day proves it!

The Fox has a double hump sump because the steering box is the last variable ratio Mustang II, and Ford had to make that rack fit the Fox body with its substaintial modified strut lower springs.

The 18 RU, 22R and 2T are typical Toyo recirulating ball/rear mount rack items with front mounted pans. Same as the old Crown, Hilux, Mark II, raer drive Corolla and Celica/Supra. So I'll be using the Toyo sump on my existing 1966 Falcon sump, with a revised pickup.

The Cortina with Pinto 2000 or X-flow I6 (a Quasi Fox car suspension for the purpose of clarity) has a single hump front mounted sump (rhyming yet), like in the Merkur 2.3 XR4Ti/ early European Capri 2300.

The steering rack is technically front mounted.

There are three Ford I6 sumps.
Bronco (US),
Cortina (Aussie)
Falcon (X-shell, fit any US Falcon/Stag/Mav/Granny in the years made between 1962 to 1980)

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

the xr4ti uses a rear sump pan (same as a fox 2.3L) owned one and swapped a 88tbird motor in it without switching pans.

would it help if I made a profile templet of the fox pan for you and folded it up and snail mailed it to you? I have the pan basicly sitting here and if it could be any help let me know (it fits TIGHT to the oil pump)

 

[xctasy]

You right. My bad. Here's my old 2.8 Colonge from my Cortina, and yep, it has the rear sump like the 2000 and 2300.

(My son was helping me fit the IHI turbo to it, same one you find on some auto 2300 turbos)