If you :-
don't want electronics,
don't want LP Gas,
don't want a supercharger,
don't want a turbo,
don't want a 3.9 or 4.0 Multipoint EFI ohc six
don't want N20 and
don't want fuel ecconomy,
here's how to do it!:
(This is just like a 290 hp 4.2 V8 VB-VH Commodore Cup -type engine spec. These have 230 rear wheel ponies. You'll need to use the best bits around for Ford sixes. No penny pinching, or you'll loose the goal.)
1. Get the Ultraflow intake manifold
2. Get a big hydraulic Crow cam
3. Get some tube headers/extractors with a 2.25" single exhast inner diameter from the 2.25" muffler by the trans to a big single Walker or simliar 2.25 " muffler. If you go any bigger, the pipe with resonate like crazy.
4. Get a 600 cfm vac secondary Holley or Carter AVS/AFB/9600 or Rochester QJet 4M carb. There are 430 and 465 Holleys, but they don't work as well at this level of power. Install it as per the 4-bbl 245 Hemi Valiants, OHC Pontiac HO 230/250's. Don't let anyone say it won't work. I've installed one on a 202 Holden before. Get someone to hack up the stock XE/XF Weber carby or even the central fuel injection EA air cleaner centre to fit the Holden, Chrysler or Ford V8 air cleaner centre so it packages right. Use the original throttle cable, and look for the K&N filter, and open up the cool air induction part to flow more cold air. The 600 cfm is best, as there needs to be half a days dyno tunning here to fix the jet sizes, and get the fuel air ratio peaches.
5. Redo the engine with short deck ACL pistons and 3.3 conrods.
6. Have an expert gas flow the cylinder head, and have him provide a SuperFlow sheet showing what the cfm flow is for each lift from 50 thou to 550 thou. You're looking for 210 to 225 cfm at 25 inches of water at 500 thou lift.
7. Have the head fitted with new Yella Terra roller rocker valve gear, and 7/16 studs. Get the best JP or similar oil pump and timing gear.
By the time you've done this, you'll find it was very expensive!
You'll need to cover off the emissions aspect with the RTA. An engineer will be needed, but if you keep the EGR and the keep it as an auto, they can't really ping you if you have an emissions legal 4-bbl carb. Just don't use the 302C or 351C ThermoQuad Carter9800...it never worked right on those. A 4.2 Commodore 1981 on XT5 carb is best.
To make it practical, maximum power must be about 270 net flywheel HP (200 advertised flywheel kW) at 5500 rpm, with a rev range to 6000 rpm. The peak torque has to be about 265 lb-ft (360 Nm) at 4000 rpm or so.
The transmission needs to be the last of the C4 autos for the XA-XD Falcons. These had a cast iron torque converter housing bell housing. You must delete the kickdown, and run a manualised B and M or Domminello supplied shift kit with a full rebuild. Converter must be 3400 rpm or so.
Diff needs to be 3.45:1 (28 spline axle swap, XR6 diff, lots of changes to fit) or 3.5: 1 (some pre TF six cylinder Cortinas, P76, Valiant utes, some XB utes, very hard to find), and you need to appreciate that it'll never cruise quietly unless you get a 5 speed gearbox. Tyres should be 25 inches tall....if you want to run 265/50 14's on the back, you'll have to run a 3.23:1 diff of an XF/XE 3.3 5-Speed.
Here's the jive. If you follow this spec, you'll get excellent power, sling shot launces, and you'll never get caught out on the street in between gears like it would if it was manual.
Manual: If you are prepared to hack up a good Ford, then the auto can get the biff, and an expensive 5-speed conversion can be done, with Toyota steel case, Supra , T5 or even a Top Loader. Expensive though, and the local T5 won't hack the pace without a rebuild. You'll certainly need to get engineering certification to do a manual. The gearing can then be dropped to a Nissan Pintara 4.11:1 ratio in the axle with 25 inch tall tyres at the back. Some over drives are only 16%, others are 27 or even 39% for the fifth gear. Use the 3.9 or 3.7:1 gears from an Aussie RB 30 Skyline if you have a shorter top gear off a steel case Toyta form a Hilux, and have 24 inch tall tyres like the 265/50 x 14's.
What you'll get.
Top speed of only 205 km/h ( 127 mph) with an auto and 3.45:1 gears, or 218 km/h ( 135 mph) with a 4.11:1 diff and BW T5 with 0.72:1 top.
Even with 1650 kg to lug around, you'll get low 14 second quarters with this mutha. Fuel consumption with the auto will be crook, only about 12 mpg around town to 18 mpg on the open road, but a manual maybe 14 to 20 mpg, if its been dyno tuned.
