A
Anonymous
Guest
http://www.realpower.dk/Sider/Tipsogtri ... nifold.htm
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
-=Whittey=-
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
-=Whittey=-
Doubly true when the words are in Danish.
Here's the english version:
http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm
http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm
A
Anonymous
Guest
For the cost of the ceramic coating he could have gone stainless. Although it does like to crack some times.
The biggest problem with a project like this, isn't the elbows, it's the tubing. Your stuck having to buy 20 foot lengths.
Unless :idea: You have a good buddy that uses this material everyday in his work. Let me go take him a 12pack and get his mind right!
John
The biggest problem with a project like this, isn't the elbows, it's the tubing. Your stuck having to buy 20 foot lengths.
Unless :idea: You have a good buddy that uses this material everyday in his work. Let me go take him a 12pack and get his mind right!
John
A
Anonymous
Guest
If I had a choice, i'd rather the ceramic than the stainless anyway.
http://www.burnsstainless.com/
^^ All sorts of tubing (stainless, aluminum, titanium, inconel) collectors, etc.
-=Whittey=-
http://www.burnsstainless.com/
^^ All sorts of tubing (stainless, aluminum, titanium, inconel) collectors, etc.
-=Whittey=-
A
Anonymous
Guest
hey all,
everyone has their own different opinions on how to go about doing a turbo exhuast manifold, but i'll speak from experience on my 32 psi 740hp i6
now use steam pipe sections like in the photo's but only get ones that are either same size as your exhaust ports or juuuust slightly bigger. no matter how much hp you have (my own has 37.6mm id piping and the ports are 36mm in diameter). as this is the key to fast boost response
one thing you do is get it either spray painted in hi-temp paint or ceramic coated then wrapp it well in heat wrapping then put a heat sheild over the manifold and turbine housing
one thing to try to always do is ti keep the manifold and the turbine as hot as posible as hotter gasses are thinner and will flow ahelova lot faster.
one thing i dont like in that website is the collector they use. having all 4 pipes arive into a big open chamber gives the exhaust gasses time to expand and slow down. what you want to do is keep everything as small as posible (but so small that it impeades flow). so run all pipes into the turbo mounting flange, and not into a colector.
i personly dropped 500rpm spool time in going form a open collector to a closed collector.
now we have an advantage in runing a i6 (particuklary engines with the 153624 foring order (ford i6)) what i have done in my own manifold is probably the best way to make a manifold for the ford i6.
i'll call cylinder1 port1 and cylinder2 port2 etc...
what you do is run port2 from the head all the way thru to the collector.
have port2 come out from the head 50mm then use a long radius 90* bend but make it so it ends up going on a 45* angle (pointing down towards the exhaust). add a short bed to flatten it out. then run it along till it get directly below the turbo colletor. then run a 90 degree bend heading straight up toward the turbo collector.
run port1 in a way that it joins into port2's piping on the bend that leveled out port 2.
run port3 in a way so that it also joins in to port2 piping at the bend section that goes back up into the turbo flange.
ports 456 are identical- port5 to turbo 6 joins in 5 on second bend 3 joins in 5 on last bend.
do not step up the size of the piping.
as the firing order only allows exhaust 'pops' happens once every 240 degree's of the cranks rotation. so the exhaust pulses are constantly hitting the turbine.
this set up works exceptoinaly well on split pulse (twin scroll) exhaust housings but will work well (and if not better then any other way of manifold construction) on single scroll housings(normal turbo designs)
i have pics and some sketches of the manifold if anyones interested. just tell me how to post them up and i will. but will not post my own pics up (its still underconstruction)
do not use stasinless steel just stick to mild steel as it retains heat very well and is more forgiving to thermal expansion. stainless steel is not and thus leads to cracking.
aw well get to it!!! boost them ford sixes (they just love it!!!)
cheers.joe.
everyone has their own different opinions on how to go about doing a turbo exhuast manifold, but i'll speak from experience on my 32 psi 740hp i6
now use steam pipe sections like in the photo's but only get ones that are either same size as your exhaust ports or juuuust slightly bigger. no matter how much hp you have (my own has 37.6mm id piping and the ports are 36mm in diameter). as this is the key to fast boost response
one thing you do is get it either spray painted in hi-temp paint or ceramic coated then wrapp it well in heat wrapping then put a heat sheild over the manifold and turbine housing
one thing to try to always do is ti keep the manifold and the turbine as hot as posible as hotter gasses are thinner and will flow ahelova lot faster.
one thing i dont like in that website is the collector they use. having all 4 pipes arive into a big open chamber gives the exhaust gasses time to expand and slow down. what you want to do is keep everything as small as posible (but so small that it impeades flow). so run all pipes into the turbo mounting flange, and not into a colector.
i personly dropped 500rpm spool time in going form a open collector to a closed collector.
now we have an advantage in runing a i6 (particuklary engines with the 153624 foring order (ford i6)) what i have done in my own manifold is probably the best way to make a manifold for the ford i6.
i'll call cylinder1 port1 and cylinder2 port2 etc...
what you do is run port2 from the head all the way thru to the collector.
have port2 come out from the head 50mm then use a long radius 90* bend but make it so it ends up going on a 45* angle (pointing down towards the exhaust). add a short bed to flatten it out. then run it along till it get directly below the turbo colletor. then run a 90 degree bend heading straight up toward the turbo collector.
run port1 in a way that it joins into port2's piping on the bend that leveled out port 2.
run port3 in a way so that it also joins in to port2 piping at the bend section that goes back up into the turbo flange.
ports 456 are identical- port5 to turbo 6 joins in 5 on second bend 3 joins in 5 on last bend.
do not step up the size of the piping.
as the firing order only allows exhaust 'pops' happens once every 240 degree's of the cranks rotation. so the exhaust pulses are constantly hitting the turbine.
this set up works exceptoinaly well on split pulse (twin scroll) exhaust housings but will work well (and if not better then any other way of manifold construction) on single scroll housings(normal turbo designs)
i have pics and some sketches of the manifold if anyones interested. just tell me how to post them up and i will. but will not post my own pics up (its still underconstruction)
do not use stasinless steel just stick to mild steel as it retains heat very well and is more forgiving to thermal expansion. stainless steel is not and thus leads to cracking.
aw well get to it!!! boost them ford sixes (they just love it!!!)
cheers.joe.
