How to remove inner crankshaft pulley on 66 200?

6

66conv6cyl

New member
:D HI
I have just bought a spare or replacement engine for my 66 convertible. I was lucky to find one manufactured in nov -65 as the car. I'm now in the middle of a light overhauling of the engine. I have faced and overcommed som problems and challenges during the process. I have made a tread on the norwegian club web site.
http://www.norskmustangclub.no/phpbb/vi ... 4&start=36

But the members here are offering help and support but they are more into V8. Pls look at the one posted on january 22nd. Does anyone know how to remove the inner crankshaft pulley. It is not released as I was about to remove some seal or something at the same time. Should I just continue to squeeze the wheel out?? And how do i instal it later on?
 
From the picture it looks like the outer part of the 2v pulley/crank damper separated from the inner portion when you tried to pull it with a jaw type puller. It looks like you already have bolts (3) threaded into the inner portion. If you reinstall the bolt in the crank without the washer, you should be able use the center threaded bolt on the puller to push against the head of the crank bolt while it pulls on the 3 bolts threaded into the inner part of the damper to finish removing the inner portion. You will also need to replace the damper/pulley or have it rebuilt.
 
Aah yes I see it now, the harmonic damper has separated. Replace or have it rebuilt.
Classic Inlines has them.
How did that happen, was a jaw-puller used first?
 
Hi again.
:thanks: You are right both of you. I assumed this inner wheel or damper pulley was solid in one piece and startet to pull off with some kind of a jaw puller. When It separated I used the outer pulley and some longer bolts to squeeze it against the head of the center bolt as you assumed. I could continue as you described by removing the large center washer if that is the correct way to handle it. I discovered that what I belived to be an oil seal is about to be released at the same time. I m only removing this pulleys to manage a proper paint job on the engine. It will be as original as possible. I have looked into some shop manuals and it seems that the reinstallation will require suitable tools to replace both the seal (?) and the damper pulley. This is where I am short of skills. (and tools)
I could replace this damper pulley from the original engine (which is not yet removed from my car) or I could rebuild it. I don`t think that`s very easy because it got to be in a good balance and the outer ring got ignition marking which will have to be exactly correct. Right :?:
:D
My friends in Norway are making fun of me as they claim that I am more like a blogger than a mechanic. :o
Which might be true but by the time this engine is restored..............
 
I wouldn't try to rebuild it myself. Use the one on the original engine or by a rebuilt unit.
 
66conv6cyl":2r62wsyv said:
I have looked into some shop manuals and it seems that the reinstallation will require suitable tools to replace both the seal (?) and the damper pulley.
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I was able to reinstall my damper just by placing it on by hand and then just tightening the bolt and washer down. Put a screwdriver in one of the damper holes and onto the edge of the timing cover to keep the crank from turning. Or some other piston stop if you have one.
 
The pulley is removed and what looks like a seal to me turned out to be a metal ring or cover of the inner part of the damper wheel hub. I have also got an idea how to reinstall everything and I will an another damper wheel. Thanks for all help.
:thanks: The move will be to test the comp by air preassure and. Then I have to order gasket, bolts and spare parts before I start painting the engine. I will consider an electronic ignition and a modern carb. as long as it looks more or less original :thumbup:
 
66conv6cyl said:
The pulley is removed and what looks like a seal to me turned out to be a metal ring or cover of the inner part of the damper wheel hub.

This is a "repair sleeve" which is used to provide a true sealing surface for the timing cover seal, I used one on mine and they work great if the damper is otherwise good, I installed my damper by boiling it (for maximum thermal expansion), (no salt please) and tapping it on with a bfh (big freaking hammer) be gentle please! Don't forget to replace the seal in the timing cover, while the covers off check the stretch in the timing chain. The seal in the timing cover can be installed by placing the flat side of a large socket on it and tapping with a hammer, just be sure to get it started squarely, and use a little sealer between seal and cover, flat side of the seal toward the engine, rubber lip toward the radiator. Oh, and don't get caught up in the "while I'm at it" syndrome! :rolflmao:
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sixpony":10eeowfa said:
66conv6cyl":10eeowfa said:
tapping it on with a bfh (big freaking hammer) be gentle please!
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Please if you actually need to hit the thing :nono: use a short piece of wood 2x4 or something in between.
Like I suggested earlier you may want to try just pulling it up with the washer and bolt first rather than start hitting things.
 
Yeah, sorry I forgot to mention that, not good to go pounding metal to metal, but it also pays to be careful when using the bolt method, a stripped or broken balancer bolt can be a pita too! Imho the key here is to warm the balancer to expand it and grease the crank snout to make things easier. :wink:
 
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