I wish to consult the advice of the Wizards here

[Anlushac11]

8)

I am selling the 93 Capri XR2 turbo. Barring the past luck that has interfered everytime I have gotten money together for the Stang, I intend to use the money to get my 200 I6 rebuilt.

I have a 250-2v head with a intake modified for a 4bbl carb but I am trying to hit 200rwhp. This is lookin very hard to do with a 250-2v but looks very possible with the X-flow head.

I have been holding off on the Oz 250 crossflow til Jack got his running. But I am considering going ahead and biting the bullet and doing the crossflow head hybrid.

I have talked to the machinist and he told me the mods are pretty straightforward and that they should be no problem.

I am trying to decide to rebuild with the 250-2v head or make the leap on the unproven crossflow head. This would not be a daily driver so I am not out a running vehicle.

Your advice please? And thanks for any input.

 

[Fingers]

If you were in Australia I would recommend using a 250 crossflow engine..... however, in your situation the 2V head will bolt up to your 200 US engine easily. Have you thought about putting a 250 in with a 2V head?

 

[addo]

Just go a 250 crossflow. Given the all-up weight with you in the car, it will be a far better performer from the beginning. Get a T5 conversion bell and you're set.

Adam.

 

[xctasy]

I've been looking at this too. I voted for the first option.

Remember, its an emmisions piece, which may garner you compliance for the visual inspection if you use the TE/TF Cortina tube header from Pacemaker...they have an EGR pickup, don't know about the O2 pieces.

As for carbs, just use the Weber ADM 34 2-bbl, an unleaded, emmisions compliant piece, and a nice import Aussie cam, and you'd be there. Or even the EA Falcon or 3.2 OR 3.9 TBI. The ECM and looms are a dime a dozen. You could have all the idle control solenoids, Weber patterned units you could want for. Alll good old unleaded gas stuff.

I firmly believe that the only issue is the intake pushrods needing to go out board of the block 8.5 degrees to create the polyspheric valve angle all cross-flows have. If you just make a gig to drill through the block at a 0.5 inch hole to the intake valve push rod postions, sleave them with a very thin 62.5 thou thick decompression plate, and thread the outer tube into the top of the plate. Just ripe for Tempo pistons and a turbo!

If it were a full engine build, I'd look at going thicker, with a 300 thou plate, and then use some custom push rods.

The distributor is easy. Ditch it and use a Hall effect like on most of the later stuff. Use a 4.0 Explorer V6-style blanking plug. Heck, you could even use the earlier electronic unit from this.

Think do-minimum.

I'm certain there is more than one way to skin a cat! Fox 'em!

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

Problems with a 221 or 250. I am interested but:

1) The Fox body needs a rear sump pan and there is no such thing for a 250. I dont feel I have the skills to fabricate one.

2) My choice for a different inline would be for a 221 crossflow.

3) I have a C4 in the car now and If I can find a '67 belhousing and get it converted I have a 4cyl turbo T-5 ready to go.

4) In Indiana we have no emissions inspections at this time. I plan to still run a converter and EGR but thats it.

5) At this time I want to start off with a carb but later I plan on building a megasquirt and switch to EFI. Dont have the money to go EFI now.

Thanks for the input, keep it coming.

 

[addo]

Well, I can address a few of your concerns and still promote the idea of a 250 crossflow as being most suitable.

A 221 crossflow would be a concoction; either a destroker 250 (block weight of the 250) or re-headed 221 (again, unproven).

High Energy could readily knock up a rear sump/pickup to suit; expect about $350-400 Oz dollars, coated inside and all.

You can buy bellhousings to suit GM and Ford T5s behind a crossflow.

As to the EFI biz, as I tell people, buy an EFI motor, and a carb/fanimold. Stay carbed until you're ready to go EFI. This is far cheaper than buying all the bits piecemeal.

Adam.

 

[Fingers]

Ok, if you want to go EFI, thats a different story!
Get a late EFI crossflow, a carby manifold to get you through in the interim, a C4 bellhousing ( or a T5 if you want a manual), get an oil pan and pick up out of a Cortina, and Bobs your builder!

 

[xctasy]

Sorry to go off on a tangent, but today I inspected my 1977 cast iron cross-flow head. I found that these had the area that is open in the alloy head is fully water jacketed, and filled in on the iron head.

Now heres the rub. The reason Jack went to the obvious solution of welding another 38 mm, or inch and a half, out board the block was to allow the gasket and head to mate up with the block, without the windowed section of the alloy head piddling oil to the pavement. No other choice, aside form a big fat spacer.

Now, I know he's done the right thing, because instead of being an inline pushrod engine, there is a 20 degree slew from the the parallel axis of the in-line six. One pushrod, the intake, goes west, the others goes east as viewed from the car pointing north. That takes the six intake rods out side the block, a major bummer. But there is just enough room to place a sleave or angled push rod tube here, of threaded rod. That only leaves the gapeing holes ( five trapezoidal shapes, 2.75" by 1.575" inch on the Aussie block, and the two windowed sections of the Aussie Alloy head. Dimensions for these are the northern most, 9 inches long, and 1.5 inches wide at its widest. The second is longer, 13.125" long and also 1.5 inches long at its widest.)

The solution is so darn simple, I don't know why I never thought of it before. Either use the iron head cross-flow, or mearly TIG weld in two 9 and 13.125 long, 1.5" plates into the base of the alloy head, and get it planed. The holes for the exhast pushrods provide oil drainback on the 1976 to 1980 iron heads, and that's what allows the oil to drain back on the alloy head if its welded up. I'd be using half inch thick T356 or some such heat treated alloy, or tooling plate. You would have to cut two plates to the area of the windows, and have them bevelled back at 30 degrees to allow weld to be built up, to get enough root fusion for the stick welding process.

But that's it. I think this allows you to do away with the extra out board welding like Jack has done. Then its just making enough space for the splayed pushrods, and the intake ones can be sleaved with threaded rod, and embeded in to the block with minor cast ron welding.

Then its just cam and distribtor and water gallery modes as Jack has done!

 

[Anonymous]

Stick with the 200 and the head you allready have!

Later,

Doug

 

[xctasy]

You can't go wrong whatever you do. But a cross-flow, man, thats where its at. Here's more engineering solutions, this time from the wildest small I6 zone on the Planet...South America!

Care of the Mandarina man himself, stollen because his site has what we all want. A six with brio! This is how you fit a distributor under the cross flow intake manifold. It's on a tall deck 188. The 200 is actually shallower in the block. Argie 188/221 engines had the same block, different cranks and rods. Boy, this would honk with a cross-flow. As it is, it's bitchin'

http://mandarinamustang.tripod.com//sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/tc09.jpg

see it all here. What we dream of, they do! :arrow: http://mandarinamustang.tripod.com/fordsix/id2.html

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

188CID, 300HP, I6

 

[xctasy]

Good stuff, eh?

I'm hungry!