Is it really worth the trouble??......

[Anonymous]

I've got my 200 running. Rebuilt basically stock from the ground up. Then I found you guys. Added the the clifford headers, into flowmaster exhaust. 2 1/2 down to 2 1/4. Probably should have gone smaller, but it sounds good. Port Divider. Weber 32/36 carb, electronic ignition. The head was milled .030, and the block squared, crank .010 under, other than that, back to stock. I really am pondering changing out the stock REGRIND cam, to a comp 260H BUT - is it worth my trouble? The car runs good now, and I didn't want to mess with it if it's not going to show a noticable power gain. Oh yeah, rebuilt the auto tranny as well. What are your recommendations... I've been dwelling on this for two years now!! Let me know what you think. Thanks

 

[addo]

You won't feel much difference with a cam change like that and an auto.

 

[Anonymous]

If you had a stock engine I would say no, it would not be worth it,
but since you have done all the other logical intake/exhaust/ignition upgrades 1st, you should notice a nice improvement by adding the cam!!

A lot of people try adding the cam 1st and are rather disappointed with it because the stock carb and exhaust tend to choke it, and there isnt much improvement in power (especially at the higher rpms).

Somthing else you would like is if you put a shift kit in the tranny

Later,

Doug

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys, keep the replies coming. The more opinons I get, the more I have to work with. Geezer, do you have a different cam choice in mind for that application, or is the 260H the right choice? I'm just afraid I put in the cam, and won't be able to tell the difference after it's done. I don't want the thing to stall either by putting in too big.

 

[Anonymous]

what gears do you have in you`r rear ? you might like the gear change and as geezer said the shift kit more than just the cam

 

[addo]

Here's my idea of a noticeable gain.

Increased mid range power with good fuel economy and idle quality.

IN.25/65
EX.74/26
ADV.270/280
50 thou 204/214
LIFT .420"/.442"
Power Range 1500-4500

 

[Anonymous]

Hi matt_hue,

I totally agree with Doug. I am confident that in combination with the mods you have made the cam will be a nice upgrade. With stock valve train you can't make power much over 4500 rpm, although I am sure your car "flows" well enough to run to 5000, or better. Word of caution, don't over cam. Takes a lot of head and valve train work to use the potential of a 270+ cam (high rpm valve train and CR over 9). After all, the object is to created more HP by moving into the high rpm band. In the process you give up low end torque and driveability (I assume you use the car as a driver on a regular basis). Check the cam tech section on this sight. Good stuff there.

I also echo the recommendation to upgrade your trans. You don't say what year you have but a 1967 and up valve body with a shift kit (I use Transgo) will give you the equivalent of a clutchless stick, with a solid shift, when you want / need it. I also strongly recommend a quicker rear end ratio. I recently whent from the original 2.80, to a 3.20. The improvement in performance (accelleration) was quit a suprise.

Enjoy - Steve

 

[CobraSix]

The big advantage of a cam like that is the additional valve lift. When I first put in my new cam, I was running basically a stock engine. I immediately noticed a difference in power. At that time, all I had on the engine was a port divider, and polished exhaust ports going into a regular manifold.

Is it worth it? It's a fairlyl cheap upgrade, just can be tough with the engine in the car. Another option to gain additional lift, what about running 1.6:1 roller rockers that FSPP (www.fordsixparts) sells?

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Steve,

When you say "valve body" do you mean transmission modulator valve? I'm to a point now that I can install the TransGo shift kit but I guess I need to change out valve bodies in order to finish this upgrade. Of course when I visit the local parts store everyone looks at me crazy when I say I need a "valve body" for a 1967 Mustang with an inline 200.

By-the-way, My C4 is stamped '65.

 

[Anonymous]

Steve, nevermind, I just got some information on C4 valve bodies. Thanks anyway.

 

[Anonymous]

Matt, have you noticed a significant power gain with the milled head, weber carb, upgraded ignition and exhaust system?

You will for sure see more improvement with the carb and exhaust changes you made then you would if you stuck the cam in without those mods. How much is hard to say. If you really want to get the most out of the cam upgrade I would have some more work on the head and valve train performed at the same time or possibly look at swapping to an aussie head. The integral log heads were produced because they were cheap. Performance was the last thing they were thinking of.

If you perform the upgrade get a dyno before and after so that you can see the diff.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys, keep the replies coming. The more opinons I get, the more I have to work with. Geezer, do you have a different cam choice in mind for that application, or is the 260H the right choice? I'm just afraid I put in the cam, and won't be able to tell the difference after it's done. I don't want the thing to stall either by putting in too big.

260 or the 264 would be a good cam in my opinion....Never used either though....mines a 272

Later,

Doug

 

[Anonymous]

What is the better choice the 260 or 264? I only want to do this once! To answer the other question, I had all stock with the exhaust upgrade - hadn't put the 2BBL on yet and was running the autolite 1101. Sadly, I clocked 0 - 60 at 17.5 seconds, I thought I was going to cry!!!! I've since added the weber, and advanced the timing a bit, but haven't tried the 0 - 60 run again since. I did feel like it was a little stronger with the new carb though, especlially when the secondary opened. What's the better cam here? Since the head was milled and the block squared - theorectilly I should shorten the push rods by .030 - right? or will I be o.k. stock? I'm also on the fence about the rocker arm upgrade, not that familiar with that either. please advise - thanks
p.s. I'm still embarrased about my 0 - 60 time!

 

[Anonymous]

Hey matt_hue,

The cam tech page would be worth a read. However, in my opinion you would not feel the difference between the 260 and the 264 (I assume you are referring to the CompCam 260 and Clifford 264H). I think you would be happy with either for daily use. As for shortening the push rods, your lifters should compensate for the machine work you did. However, you really need to go to a set of adjustable rockers with the cam change. As a matter of fact, a high lift rocker assembly (1.6:1) from someone like Rocker Arm Specialties would be worth the money (about $170 with the push rods). As for your 0-60 time, a road test published by a recognized car mag put the 0-60 for a new 200ci Mustang at 15.1 in 1966. Qtr mile was stated to be 19.5 and 67mph. You might want to check your state of tune and your measuring methods before you take another shot at it.

Steve

 

[CobraSix]

Steve's right. You're not going to notice a huge difference in the 260 and 264 cams. The big difference of those cams over stock is the valve lift, and slight duration change. You'll like the improved performance, plus it'll have a fairly stock sound and you won't have a really surging idle, mine is still very smooth. I went with the 260 cam BTW.

If don't have them, consider buying some adjustable rockers. You can usually find them on ebay. That'll make it easier to adjust for machine work. A lot easier and cheaper then buying shortened pushrods.

Slade

 

[mugsy]

Remember that there are three C's for power: Compression, Carburation and Cam Shaft. You have two of the three "fixed", so go for the last "C"!

I am in the process of rebuilding a short block I bought off a guy who was converting a 200 cid '66 mustang to a V-8. He told me that the previous owner said the motor recently had a "stock rebuild". I checked the cam shaft lift at 0.050 and found it to be about 150 degrees !!! My advice is to change over to a longer duration cam AND verify the specs with a degree wheel. I picked up a degree wheel cheap from Summit Racing.

Have fun,
Mugsy

 

[Anonymous]

I'm going with the 260H I think. People are suggesting the 1:6 ratio adjustable rockers. Here's another question, can I simply change out the cam and put everything back the way it is now. Keep the stock rocker and not worry about the adjustments? Will the adjustable rocker make that much difference or can I leave it the way it is. I also am wondering, do I need to upgrade the springs, keepers and lifters? They all have less than 3000 miles since new, can they stay? What harm will it do to just change the cam? What added bonus will be gained from changing the rocker arm if any? I was considering changing the cam, and shimming up the stock rocker arm .030 to make up for added lift, and .030 I lost when I squared the block. Thanks for helping me out with this. I'm pretty good at changing things out according to the Chiltons manual ,but beyond that, I need your help and advise. Thanks

 

[addo]

Here's my take on it. Just another point of view from someone who's been ripped for more over the years, than most people spend outright on cars.

Yes, if you are going to install a performance camshaft and use it as such (!) then you will need to upgrade your springs, and depending on the cam, the retainers, too. Go with the minimum spring upgrade - any more will just wear the timing set and sap engine power. No matter how old the headwork is (months or years), at no more than $1 each, replace those valve stem seals.

Also, pertinent to my comment about actually making use of the cam, do dial it in. You now need the adjustable timing set and the means to evaluate cam timing. Mugsy also has a good point about measuring the stocker - I have found engines where the actual stock grind is nowhere near specified. The differing base circles of the reground cam and a new billet grind, may result in the need for pushrod length compensation.

Rockers - as the higher ratio effectively increases lift, this is another, independent issue. It could in this manner add 4° to the 50 thou duration of a cam. I have not heard one person complain after fitting roller type rockers, about the performance gain. Non-roller rockers may marginally increase side load on the valve guides, adding accelerated wear and power losses. You could consider just fitting a set of full roller rockers for the time being. The marginal extra shock to the valve springs should not be an issue. For that matter, installing full roller rockers should let you remove up to 100 thou of the valve guide boss in the ports, if you got keen. (A benefit of reduced side loadings.)

There is an essence of "fork in the road" for your choices.

(a.) Chances are, for normal use, you could swap just the cam and lifters and everything would be hunky dory. Most people don't really work their engine anywhere near its limits. Cheap (comparatively).

(b.) Or, go for the extra ratio rockers, adjustable timing set, cam, recommended springs and such, pushrods to suit, dizzy recurve and possible carb rejet. As we don't know your actual baselines, it's hard to say whether this would give you much at all over Option A, or a whole lot!

Time, bucks and abiding interest would see Option B preferred, but I realise that circumstances and enthusiam will dictate your choice.

Cheers, Adam.