It's a pile of parts! -Or -The education continues!

lorwood

Well-known member
First the stats 66 Mustang 200 auto

This is my first classic car and I am enjoying the education. I started my spring cleaning on the car today and started to decode my car for the first time. ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! :shock: :?

Block C8DE B 1968!
Exhaust manifold C3DE 1963!!!
Head C1DE A 1961 170 Cubic inch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The bright side is I feel I now can do anything to this car. The engine as is is tight and runs well ( It Is A DOG however)

So any suggestions? I don't want to pull the engine but I will rebuild the top end.

What head to use? Is it possible to get the Aussie head?

Can I buy a head that is already rebuilt? A bolt on would be preffered.

The tranny is a 3 speed auto but I am having trouble finding the casting numbers. What are the chances that it is a C4? (I need something to go right)

Thanks guys
 
it all depends on what you are aiming for to decide which head you want if you want a major powerhouse i would wait for Mike's Aluminum head but if your only aiming for a mild build up a stock head or the aussie head will work

as for getting an aussie head it is possible but if you find one here in the states itll be nearly a grand for the head and intake in unknown condition
 
Ok I have found a few online shops that offer the 250 head remanufactured (78 Granada). Since I will need to have the new head milled to make up for the diffrences in gasket thickness is it possible to have the head milled after it has been rebuilt? What carb is the best bet for this head and what type of modifications should I expect? Thanks ed
 
:D My introduction to engine building was a Studebaker 289 R1 V8.It was TOTALLY disassembled except for the cam.All small parts were there.In a box.Now THAT was an adventure.To my surprise,when put together,it ran flawlessly.Over the years seice then,I have had a hand in building or helping to build appx 300 automotive,marine and aircraft engines.
Leo
 
Easy to mill the head after a rebuild. Probably prudent to tear it down after this, however, and clean every scrap of swarf out!

Personally, I'd say not to worry too much about the motor. Ever noticed how successful people get given free stuff all the time? I reckon if the car presents stunningly, there's a good chance someone will look at it and say "Oh, I've got a rebuilt head in my garage you can have"...

A friend is about to scrap a decent Mopar wagon because he focused too hard on the top end and let the body go. Now he can only get scrap metal value for the whole lot.
 
A friend is about to scrap a decent Mopar wagon because he focused too hard on the top end and let the body go. Now he can only get scrap metal value for the whole lot.

Was that me? It might be because the body on my 69 Plymouth wagon slowly disintegrated but somehow I couldn't wear out the frame or engine, in spite of conciencious and prolonged neglect. Except for the carb I rebuilt.

Yes it's true. Sometimes things accumulate. Heads, rims, carbs, whatever. You will run across this stuff mostly. Just chum the water and stand by.
 
It was someone more local. He's done a string of daft things - basically if he'd listened to me, he'd be $5000 better off and still enjoying the car.
 
my input for what it's worth.

since your motor is currently good, make sure the body and rolling gear are all in good shape. No rust, and any problems fixed before you get into the motor.

Once the body, frame, and suspension are "safe" (meaning safe to drive and safe from rust) then think about the motor.

As said before, what are you goals, screaming six, sunday cruiser with enough power to "have fun", or a resto job with a bit more merging grunt.
What is your budget and how from from stock are you willing to go.

the '69 is a bit heavier, and an auto, so your working uphill already. With out major work you won't have a firebreathing monster, but with "some" work you can have a nice runner, quick when you want it to be, and "fairly decent" on the mpg. Browse the forums a bit and see what others have done, it's a good motor and will do you good if you take care of it.
 
Funky Cricket":33oxcuif said:
my input for what it's worth.

since your motor is currently good, make sure the body and rolling gear are all in good shape. No rust, and any problems fixed before you get into the motor.

Once the body, frame, and suspension are "safe" (meaning safe to drive and safe from rust) then think about the motor.

As said before, what are you goals, screaming six, sunday cruiser with enough power to "have fun", or a resto job with a bit more merging grunt.
What is your budget and how from from stock are you willing to go.

the '69 is a bit heavier, and an auto, so your working uphill already. With out major work you won't have a firebreathing monster, but with "some" work you can have a nice runner, quick when you want it to be, and "fairly decent" on the mpg. Browse the forums a bit and see what others have done, it's a good motor and will do you good if you take care of it.
THANKS. The car is in great shape no rust anywhere. The brakes, suspension, steering, tires and glass are in very good shape. The interior is very presentable. The car looks great. I do have on the agenda a new front suspension and conversion to a disc brake setup (Maybe power maybe not) But that will probably be next years project as I will be sending that work out. The block is a 68 not a 69 and I am hoping that the tranny is a C4 (anybody know where to find the ID numbers?) Right now I am thinking about a new head ( I can get a 250 head rebuilt from a 78 granada milled to my specs and a three angle valve job for under 300.00) A larger carb (Any suggestions would be welcome) And upgrading the exhaust (How intrusive are a set of headers?) Maybe just a later manifold, 2" pipe and a turbo muffler. As always all suggestions and ideas are welcome.
 
I'd stick with the 200 and C4 meantime. True the weight is about 3000 pounds, something like 500 pounds heavier than the first 64.5 Mustang, yeah, its heavy, but that is not insurmountable.

Best thing is the light, trim 200 has bulk space for a good 2-bbl carb, which can be covered by a nice air cleaner. There is about 150 net , (real) hp to be had with the right modifications to exhast, induction, gearing, hotter head/cam and tunning work.

Gearing in itself is the real area to look at if it it fits your ideals and budget. Any stock C4 can effectively loose what feels like 10 cubic inches, making a modest 200 I6 feel like a 190 when compared to a good T5 5-speed manual. It is the most worthwhile conversion, but its time consuming, and not for everyone.

Hot pick auto gearbox options along down the line are the Bordeux built A4LD and some 5-speed Ford Explorer self shifters. These need only a 1977-1980 C3 200 bellhousing to work on a small I6. These are light, strong enough for 200 hp plus, getting cheaper, and, because they are French, no-one want's them =). You have to wait a few years for a kit to surface!
 
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