Its time to send my modified cyl head off for machining. Valve plans?

Asa

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Building a dual-Weber cylinder head, based off of an E0 or E1 casting, I believe. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81492

Planning for a fairly mild build with this for now, with the ability to be upgraded in the future. I was wondering what I should do with the springs and valves. 302 valve springs seem to be what I want for now, but what should I do for valves?
 
The 302 valve springs work ok with a stock cam and can raise the RPM slitly about 300 to 400 RPM before you will have float better than the stock 200 six valve springs. But if your going to change to an aftermarket cam now or in the future they won't be the right spring choice in that case then it might be better to see what springs the cam suppler recommends and use them. On the valves the E0 and E1 heads come stock with 1.750 intakes they work good if you needed to replace them you can go a little bit bigger to a 1.8 or so. Most use a larger 1.5 inch exhaust valve they work great even with the stock 1.75 intakes. Do a good 3 angle valve job with back cut the vales too. Are you going to open up the valve bowls? Best of luck :thumbup: :nod:
 
It looks like Vintage Inlines is out of both the 1.75 and 1.8" valves. Know who a good supplier is of either? I don't have the old valves, they were slightly boogered so I ended up tossing a couple of each port away

I was going to do some work on the head, not too much though. I'm mainly testing out how well this entire setup works and if I have to worry about fatigue cracks or anything. That's why I'm not going too deep into anything right now. If this works well, I'll rebuild a 250 I have on the "shelf" to take advantage of everything and if it doesn't work well I'll rebuild the Oz 250-2V head that came with the 250.
 
You could check out SI Valves online catalog to see what they list. http://www.sivalves.com
They have the stock valves and the seat saver ones that are +.030 larger diameter, as well as the pro flow type performance type valves too. On my ported 77 250 Maverick (very low Milage) it cracked between the #3 & #4 exhaust ports could of been a fluke. But this is why I usally recommend installing the center port divider. Best of luck :thumbup: :nod:
 
many just tack the divider in (gasket support/gas diversion). This may take more technique.
I like the idea~
 
Contacting SI Valves directly was a bust. Turns out they only turn valves on demand and in large batches. They sell all of them to vendors when that happens.
 
Matt had some valves hidden away somewhere.

Anyone have a part number for SBF springs, though? He is out of them. Should I just pick some up from Rock Auto or whatever, or is there a certain engine and year that has the good ones?
 
They used the 1964 to 1968 - HIPO 289 “The 271 HP V8’s” or Also the 302 Valve springs. :nod:
 
If you have a stock cam the stock ford valve springs will be fine.
If you have an aftermarket cam, get the springs they recommended for your grind.
The stock Ford valve springs have no damper inside the springs. Only good for a stock cam.
 
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