K&N
- Thread starter havoline
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havoline":2u55noqt said:
Wow! First oil filters, now this. These topics can get ugly...
The factory air filter unit and paper element both work very well. The only time a K&N air filter might have an advantage is in a heavily modified engine that has higher CFM requirements than stock. Otherwise, I'd suggest you save your money for gas.
Here's something about closed air cleaners that people don't understand. The air intake snorkel actually accelerates the entering air as it passes through the narrow opening. This is called the venturi effect, and the faster (and slightly compressed) air actually improves engine efficiency.
A progressive 2-barrel carb on a straight six is a good choice. The barrels open sequentially, providing a linear increase in flow as the throttle is pressed down. An Autolite 1100 is also a good carb. I get darn good fuel economy with my 170 and Autolite 1100. With a stock air cleaner and paper filter...
Looking at the test results I've seen, the K&N style might flow better, but let a LOT more stuff through than the good ol' paper filters. Also, I don't think that the filter is the crucial restriction anyhow.
If I was going to go with that style, I'd get one of the paper cartridge filters that look similar to a K&N. They flow more than the stock filter does anyhow.
If I was going to go with that style, I'd get one of the paper cartridge filters that look similar to a K&N. They flow more than the stock filter does anyhow.
K&N air filters can out flow a stock air filter, but the bigger question is do you need more air flow? The biggest thing I dislike about a K&N filter is they have to cleaned and oiled regularly. If you have never done this before it can be a mess. You can buy a chrome air cleaner with a larger size paper filter and come out just a good in most cases.
Or you could do what a friend of mine does.Stack two stock filters,and use some silicon sealer between them.Works for him.Just keep in mind hood clearance.
Leo
Bort62":3qct9hlc said:page62":3qct9hlc said:
That's actually the Bernoulli principal
Yeah, that's what keeps airplanes up. The venturi effect can be calculated from the Bernoulli principle. I guess the main difference is that Venturi effect deals only with fluid flow inside pipes, while Bernoulli deals with fluid flow in any surroundings. Therefore, since one end of the system is open, it is the Bernoulli principle, and not the venturi effect, that describes it. If there was a restriction while inside the snorkel, then it would be the venturi effect, but would be useless because even though it increases the velocity of the air, it restricts total flow. And doesn't do anything useful like suck gasoline into suspension.
Let me make a suggestion:
Before I post anything like that, I go look it up on Wikipedia to make sure I am not mis-remembering. I spent many years in college learning this stuff, and still I forget details and mis-remember what is what. Since I don't like being wrong, I like to double-check myself before I make any public statements.
Before I post anything like that, I go look it up on Wikipedia to make sure I am not mis-remembering. I spent many years in college learning this stuff, and still I forget details and mis-remember what is what. Since I don't like being wrong, I like to double-check myself before I make any public statements.
On my 67 mustang i run a 14" x 3" filter.
I hooked up my innovate wideband air fuel tester & checked my a/f at idle with a 3 month old wix filter. a/f ratio was 13-1.
I removed the wix & the a/f now read 13.5-1.
Installed a k & n and the a/f still read 13.5 showing no restriction.
Just don't over oil the k&n especially on a vehicle with a mass air flow sensor.
Point proven, Bill
I hooked up my innovate wideband air fuel tester & checked my a/f at idle with a 3 month old wix filter. a/f ratio was 13-1.
I removed the wix & the a/f now read 13.5-1.
Installed a k & n and the a/f still read 13.5 showing no restriction.
Just don't over oil the k&n especially on a vehicle with a mass air flow sensor.
Point proven, Bill
so basically everyone is saying that K&N air filters dont do anything for our cars?? I want to know the difference in mpg before and after installation.
new topic then how about best spark plug. I have sean those pulse (pulstar) plugs are they full of BS?
I use my autolites at a gap of .035" cause my ignition is basically stock except for 8 mm wires and a 40000 coil but with stock distributor cap. less than a month will order the DUI. reviews on that then? recommendations? Info?
new topic then how about best spark plug. I have sean those pulse (pulstar) plugs are they full of BS?
I use my autolites at a gap of .035" cause my ignition is basically stock except for 8 mm wires and a 40000 coil but with stock distributor cap. less than a month will order the DUI. reviews on that then? recommendations? Info?
A
Anonymous
Guest
havoline":o23m4d7o said:
I have run a K&N Cold Air Induction system on my Ford 150 SuperCrew for right at 115,000 miles now and to be as honest as I can with you I cannot see any different in the gas mileage in my truck before I put the K&N air system on. The only reason I even use this system is because it lets the engine breath far above what the stock breather I had on the truck did. I have heard people say they get better gas mileage but personally and to be as honest as I can I have not seen this myself or any improvement other than the fact the motor really breaths better. I have put about 40,000 miles of the 115,000 on my truck pulling cars from place to place with my car hauler. The only thing I have seen is it sure helps when the truck can get the air it needs to maintain its power on hills and hard pulls and maintain the power range I drive in. The manual says to never use the overdrive or cruise when towing but I have never taken mine out. I just let the engine do what it is going to do. Sometimes it runs in the overdrive on the flats and when coming to a hill it will jump to 3000 rpms or sometimes but not often it has jumped to 5000 rpms depending on the terrain to hold the speed. With the Flow Master mufflers on the truck when it does this it sounds like a jet about to leave the ground but it holds its own.
Bort62":2xdozhg8 said:
What he said. Bernoulli, Venturi, spaghetti, linguini. Close enough. The basic concept is still sound.
The whole thing is similar in nature to the concept of making an engine "breathe" better. Larger intakes, bigger carbs, lumpier cams and all that. In some cases this increases HP, especially at higher RPM, but at the expense of low-end torque. Robbing Peter to pay Paul and all that... :arrow:
Eric Rose
Famous Member
havoline":3kon7pbk said:
Stock Motorcraft coppers for me, gapped at .040. Engine was a 200 with Duraspark II.
I have never, ever had good luck using platinum plugs in any of my vehicles. If you look at the electrode, its all tiny and covered in porcelain. Tiny electrode = tiny spark
I don't know exactly why, but a cool spark is actually better for accurate timing and also prevents detonation. And when you raise compression you should go to cooler plugs. Forced induction and nitrous both require cooler plugs as well, I think the reason they need them is different though. Somebody here knows and will provide the science
A Cooler plug does not mean a cooler "spark". The plasma temperature has nothing to do with the spark plug but is instead a product of the gases present that make up the plasma.
A cooler spark plug has a different amount of ceramic insulation around the electrode, causing the electrode to maintain a different temperature. Hotter plugs tend to stay cleaner as carbon etc. will not stick to them. However, the "glowing" hot electrode can cause pre-ignition, which is the reason for running cooler plugs on a blower/turbo/n20 engine.
I always run the cheapest copper plugs money can buy.
A cooler spark plug has a different amount of ceramic insulation around the electrode, causing the electrode to maintain a different temperature. Hotter plugs tend to stay cleaner as carbon etc. will not stick to them. However, the "glowing" hot electrode can cause pre-ignition, which is the reason for running cooler plugs on a blower/turbo/n20 engine.
I always run the cheapest copper plugs money can buy.
I run whatever stock heat range copper plugs are the cheapest, but like NGK Iridiums a lot.
For 90 horsepower, though, it doesn't make much sense to buy them. Don't even know if they are made in this size. Same reason I don't put synthetic oil in there. I know for a fact that synthetic is better in all respects than dino oil, but Tech 2000 is way easier on the wallet. I don't put many miles on the car anyhow. And the same reason I don't care to buy a K&N. The 5hp theoretical difference isn't worth the money. I'd rather save it up and buy something that will really boost horsepower.
Like a better carb and distributor.
Maybe a turbo.
For 90 horsepower, though, it doesn't make much sense to buy them. Don't even know if they are made in this size. Same reason I don't put synthetic oil in there. I know for a fact that synthetic is better in all respects than dino oil, but Tech 2000 is way easier on the wallet. I don't put many miles on the car anyhow. And the same reason I don't care to buy a K&N. The 5hp theoretical difference isn't worth the money. I'd rather save it up and buy something that will really boost horsepower.
Like a better carb and distributor.
Maybe a turbo.
60s Refugee
Well-known member
Air filters have several contributions to give.
First, to keep unwanted crap out of the carb/engine. There have been many approaches to this in auto history starting with no filter at all, to screens, to oil baths, paper, and now stuff like the K&N's. Auto companies work in a super competitive business and believe me, if they could do better, they would! As has been already mentioned, the stock system will work as good if not better than anything hanging on a hook at the parts store.
Second, the 'coolness' factor. How cool do they look! There are so many cool designs out there that it's hard to select one. But do they actually work better? Do they filter the air AND keep out rain and snow? Do they inhibit the air flow? Do they direct air from a cool (temp) place to improve performance? Well who cares about that stuff as long as you can screw a skull shaped nut down on the middle of it!
Third, operation cost. Does the custom air filter give you required performance without costing too much? Probably not. Will the filters even be available in five years? Does 'lasting for a million miles' really matter when it's so cheap to replace the paper filters? Will you need to take extra time to maintain them and get crap all over your hands and that really cool Ohio State University hoodie you should be wearing?
My new tri-power will have finned polished aluminum covers from Vintage Speed and will use the paper elements rather than the optional (and more costly) K&N's. I like the look and function of the one "K Stang" built up for his Cobra Six using the dual carb aluminum filter. WOW!
So, it's once again like 'religion and politics". You know what the right thing to do is, but are you going to sin anyhow!
Plugs, go Autolite/Motorcraft. Cheap, available everywhere, long lasting, designed for your Ford. As long as they don't say Champion on them anywhere you are gonna be OK. I've never seen any noticable improvment using NKD or any of those higher dollar brands either.
Harry
First, to keep unwanted crap out of the carb/engine. There have been many approaches to this in auto history starting with no filter at all, to screens, to oil baths, paper, and now stuff like the K&N's. Auto companies work in a super competitive business and believe me, if they could do better, they would! As has been already mentioned, the stock system will work as good if not better than anything hanging on a hook at the parts store.
Second, the 'coolness' factor. How cool do they look! There are so many cool designs out there that it's hard to select one. But do they actually work better? Do they filter the air AND keep out rain and snow? Do they inhibit the air flow? Do they direct air from a cool (temp) place to improve performance? Well who cares about that stuff as long as you can screw a skull shaped nut down on the middle of it!
Third, operation cost. Does the custom air filter give you required performance without costing too much? Probably not. Will the filters even be available in five years? Does 'lasting for a million miles' really matter when it's so cheap to replace the paper filters? Will you need to take extra time to maintain them and get crap all over your hands and that really cool Ohio State University hoodie you should be wearing?
My new tri-power will have finned polished aluminum covers from Vintage Speed and will use the paper elements rather than the optional (and more costly) K&N's. I like the look and function of the one "K Stang" built up for his Cobra Six using the dual carb aluminum filter. WOW!
So, it's once again like 'religion and politics". You know what the right thing to do is, but are you going to sin anyhow!
Plugs, go Autolite/Motorcraft. Cheap, available everywhere, long lasting, designed for your Ford. As long as they don't say Champion on them anywhere you are gonna be OK. I've never seen any noticable improvment using NKD or any of those higher dollar brands either.
Harry
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