All Small Six KBS RustBlast Rust Remover

[Invectivus]

I'm looking at this for my head, it wasn't oiled at the head shop and they handed it to me already with flash rust on it. It's not bad, I can barely feel any texture difference on the gasket surface with my eyes closed.

KBS Coatings 3400 KBS RustBlast Rust Remover | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - KBS RustBlast Rust Remover with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cleaning Solutions at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

This should be fine to prep my head with before paint and installation?

Bonus question, I saw a video from a guy who coated the oil galley and timing chain area with Rust-oleum appliance epoxy, to combat oil soak. Thoughts on that and maybe doing the rocker area of the head?

Double bonus, what of chamfering or radiusing the drain holes in the head?

 

[bubba22349]

Can't answer your first question haven't tried it but sounds like it would work. A good cleaning with a spray (Stiffen Type) air gun to use solvent as a cleaner and then with Tide soap is great for degreasing and cleaning then blow dry with compressed air and spray the machined surfaces with WD40 to keep from rusting just before starting engine assembly. Also used a garbage bag to keep clean in between assembly times.

Yes on first Bonus question, after doing all my deburing and grinding on the inside of my race engine blocks I used to brush paint all the cast areas not machined on the inside of the block & head with Glypol Red Enamel. It looked great and worked great in sealing up the blocks porosity plus the smoother surfaces kept the inside cleaner as well as returning the oil faster back into the oil pan.

Yes on second Bonus question deburing, chamfering, or even grinding a little Chanel so oil can flow easier and drain back into the oil pan faster is always a good idea. Best of luck

 

[Invectivus]

Awesome, thanks.

 

[BigBlue94]

Can't answer your first question haven't tried it but sounds like it would work. A good cleaning with a spray (Stiffen Type) air gun to use solvent as a cleaner and then with Tide soap is great for degreasing and cleaning then blow dry with compressed air and spray the machined surfaces with WD40 to keep from rusting just before starting engine assembly. Also used a garbage bag to keep clean in between assembly times.

Yes on first Bonus question, after doing all my deburing and grinding on the inside of my race engine blocks I used to brush paint all the cast areas not machined on the inside of the block & head with Glypol Red Enamel. It looked great and worked great in sealing up the blocks porosity plus the smoother surfaces kept the inside cleaner as well as returning the oil faster back into the oil pan.

Yes on second Bonus question deburing, chamfering, or even grinding a little Chanel so oil can flow easier and drain back into the oil pan faster is always a good idea. Best of luck

I couldn't have said it any better.

I would use the Glyptal Red over any appliance or architectural/industrial epoxy coating. While some of the industrial types are highly chemical resistant, most are not rated for continual immersion in volatile liquids or fumes. Then you get to the fact that they arent even available smaller than a gallon, except for those appliance refinisher kits.

The toughest one we sell for chemical resistance is Aliphatic Acrylic Urethane. Its used on gas station canopies and pump islands.

The Glyptal Red is made specifically for going inside an engine.

 

[Invectivus]

That makes sense, I'm not hurting for cash enough not to do things the right way.

I've ordered Rust-oleum varnish/tar remover, high temp primer, and ford blue engine enamel from Grainger, Glyptal from Eastwood, and RustBlast direct from KBS. I still need to grab some paint thinner, lint free clothes, and some brushes for the Glyptal.

You know, I liked Summit, but they're just too hard to do business with. They wouldn't send me my Edelbrock 1406 electric choke without getting on the phone and verifying it was for a pre '66 vehicle. Ordering just said it 'might' be restricted. I got the same thing for the paints, so I went straight to the source.