i did my cam swap and now have very noisy valve-train, it's not making a tapping noise, it sounds kinda like a diesel at the engine, im assuming it is just the cam breaking in, i did the initial break in with the engine reved to 2000 rpm for 20 min
loud valve-train after cam swap
- Thread starter 64 200 ranchero
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i get a nice steady idle, steady vacuum, i think the cam is properly broken in, ill check the valve adjustment again maybe i need to tighten some stuff up
The cam will make no unusual noises while it breaks in. If you are familiar with the sound of excessive valve lash and you say that is not it, perhaps give this a whirl:
Start the engine and bring it up to temp. Turn it off and unbolt the fuel pump. Start the engine as it will run for a minute on the fuel that is in the float bowl. If the noise is gone, you have found your problem. It is likely that the fuel pump arm kind of wore into the old cam and it may need replacement just to quiet it down. You could also try reinstalling the pump and "tweaking" it clockwise and counterclockwise with the engine idling but the fuel pump bolts just barely loose. If it quiets down at a given position, tighten it down and enjoy the peace and quiet.
Start the engine and bring it up to temp. Turn it off and unbolt the fuel pump. Start the engine as it will run for a minute on the fuel that is in the float bowl. If the noise is gone, you have found your problem. It is likely that the fuel pump arm kind of wore into the old cam and it may need replacement just to quiet it down. You could also try reinstalling the pump and "tweaking" it clockwise and counterclockwise with the engine idling but the fuel pump bolts just barely loose. If it quiets down at a given position, tighten it down and enjoy the peace and quiet.
I bet thats it, the lobe on my old cam has a groove where my pump wore into it
I figured it out, i had the valves adjusted too loose, now the car runs very quiet however the vacuum dropped a lot, now i can only get -10 psi on my vac gauge and the car has a little bit of a rough idle, i did notice that i have a slightly bent pushrod, maybe i gave the cam a bit too much advance? it is a 264 @ 112lc
it does run good but kinda acts like it wants to stall when i have it in gear, i have no problem with that as long as thats normal and it stays running
How did you adjust the valves? If done incorrectly you may have a valve or two not closing and said cylinders misfiring which would give the symptoms you are describing. You should certainly see more idle vaccum than 10 inches. Something is wrong.
If you have the valves adjusted properly and it is firing on all six, and the carb is in good tune, try advancing the timing. That cam might like as much as 20 degrees depending on your compression ratio.
If you have the valves adjusted properly and it is firing on all six, and the carb is in good tune, try advancing the timing. That cam might like as much as 20 degrees depending on your compression ratio.
i adjusted the valves just as it said here http://classicinlines.com/ValveAdj.asp, im going to change the spark plugs and see if that helps
i changed the plugs and nothing changed, i have to set the distributor advance to 25 to just get it to where i can drive it, i think i might have adjusted the valves too much, i set them to zero by moving the pushrods up and down while adjusting them till they will not move up and down anymore, then i adjust them a little more till i feel a little resistance while spinning them, after that, i gave them an extra half turn and locked them, i think ill redo the adjustment and try just giving them 1/4 turn this time,
the head does have very large valves so if they are only open a little, i guess that could cause the erratic low vac, it didnt act like this when it was noisy and out of adjustment, i would get about 20" rock steady vac before i did the adjustment
i do have high ratio rockers could that contribute to low erratic vac if valve adjustment is off?
the head does have very large valves so if they are only open a little, i guess that could cause the erratic low vac, it didnt act like this when it was noisy and out of adjustment, i would get about 20" rock steady vac before i did the adjustment
i do have high ratio rockers could that contribute to low erratic vac if valve adjustment is off?
Not to insult your intelligence but you have to make sure the lifter you are adjusting is on the base circle if the cam. If the lifter is on any other part of the cam lobe and you make adjustments, it will be wrong. I am not a fan of the valve adjustment technique described in that link at all. It is certainly easier, but leaves a lot of opportunity for mistakes.
Try this Instead: Remove all the plugs and working from the number one cylinder, plug the spark plug hole with your finger and have a buddy bump the starter until you feel pressure escaping. Stop there as that is the compression stroke. Put a ratchet on the crank bolt and slowly turn the crank in the same direction and check through the spark plug hole for the piston to be nearing the top of its stroke. It is not important that it be exact. Both valves for that cylinder will always be closed at that point on any engine and you can adjust BOTH valves for that cylinder the way you described before, by twisting the pushrod and tightening the adjuster until there is some resistance and then an addition half turn. After that cylinder is done you can move on to number 2 and so forth. You don't have to follow any particular order this way and it is fool proof.
Try this Instead: Remove all the plugs and working from the number one cylinder, plug the spark plug hole with your finger and have a buddy bump the starter until you feel pressure escaping. Stop there as that is the compression stroke. Put a ratchet on the crank bolt and slowly turn the crank in the same direction and check through the spark plug hole for the piston to be nearing the top of its stroke. It is not important that it be exact. Both valves for that cylinder will always be closed at that point on any engine and you can adjust BOTH valves for that cylinder the way you described before, by twisting the pushrod and tightening the adjuster until there is some resistance and then an addition half turn. After that cylinder is done you can move on to number 2 and so forth. You don't have to follow any particular order this way and it is fool proof.
that does sound like a way more accurate way to adjust the valves, i will try it 
Guys Guys Guys If you are not doing the EOIC Method to adjust your valves your doing it wrong,( IMHO) the Best and Easiest way to adjust CORRECTLY with an aftermarket Cam ( works just as well for stock stuff ), Ive it been doing it for 35 plus years ,Last year at this time I was in Tennessee Working With Blair Patrick , He was using this on The FE Power plants I helped assemble 390, 427,428 etc , we are talking 900+ Hp Engines @ 35,000.00 and Up Money , if it Wasn't the correct way Blair would Not use it and sure as hell would not of left me adjust the valves
i tried first fox's method and it did help, i have a much smoother idle and more vac but, its still not how i think it should idle, i still have to run a lot of advance and have the center carb turned way up but i guess if i advanced the cam 4deg i would prob have to advance the distributor a bit more, ill try your method now Faron, you have never given me bad advice, i think by taking the crank out of the equation and adjust the valves based only on the cam this may work better for my setup. I am a newbie when it comes to cams, thanks for your help guys.
There is certainly more than one way to skin a cat and I assure you there is absolutely nothing wrong with the technique I described to you. It is easy to understand for someone that reffered to himself as a beginner at this, and the other methods might work for someone who is more familiar with the process, myself included, but to state that the method I described is "wrong" is total crap. I am not new to this game either.
For the record, there are a lot of techniques used in the building of high dollar engines that are completely unessesary in a bread and butter, budget engine. Stating that because something is done on a $40,000 engine, it is the "right" way to do it is silly.
For the record, there are a lot of techniques used in the building of high dollar engines that are completely unessesary in a bread and butter, budget engine. Stating that because something is done on a $40,000 engine, it is the "right" way to do it is silly.
Your method does NOT take into account a cam with above average overlap , it would place the lifter on a ramp , and Not on the heel , Silly ??, the Right Way is Never Silly , I stated that The EOIC works on Stock as well , YOURS Does NOT work well on a Aftermarket cam , so who is Silly ?
You are correct about the overlap issue and when dealing with the kinds of cams where that is relevant, I agree with you. Like I said there is a place for certain techniques but applying them across the board and maintain that it is the ONLY correct way to do something was silly. I too have had my hands on high dollar engines and worked on a crew running a blown alcohol funny car. This was a 2500 horsepower engine and required all kinds of tricks to make it survive. There were techniques used in the building of that engine that were more involved than with the building of something making 900 HP, but I would not say that the things we did were "right" and your builders methods were wrong. A top fuel car has even more involved tricks and techniques required to work, but that doesn't mean that any of the lesser techniques or methods are wrong. They are appropriate for their applications.
Believe me, if the engineers in the space program saw the kinds of tolerances and techniques we use when dealing with top fuel to formula one engines, they would say that we are all hacks and everything we are doing is wrong and our stuff would never work.
Believe me, if the engineers in the space program saw the kinds of tolerances and techniques we use when dealing with top fuel to formula one engines, they would say that we are all hacks and everything we are doing is wrong and our stuff would never work.
We Can go Back and Forth , Bottom Line Is EOIC Works for EVERYTHING , its Fool Proof Regardless of the Cam Type , So why confuse a Beginner with a method that May NOT work for Him/Her , ok we can agree to disagree , nuff said
You gotta ruffle some feathers to make the Falcon six fly.
EOIC works for all, and there are a lot of us who have been having trouble with this very issue, because we haven't used EOIC. There are some historic posts regarding this, and it would be wrong to keep people here uniformed, even if it ruffled a few feathers.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71122&p=545856#p545856
This following is all V8 specific, but there are three common methods.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0702_camshaft/
EOIC works for all, and there are a lot of us who have been having trouble with this very issue, because we haven't used EOIC. There are some historic posts regarding this, and it would be wrong to keep people here uniformed, even if it ruffled a few feathers.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71122&p=545856#p545856
This following is all V8 specific, but there are three common methods.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0702_camshaft/
it did work, i still have a lower vacuum then i thought i would end up with but it is much better, its about 13" @ 1000rpm in neutral and about 9" @700rpm in gear, it is running very smoothly now, i still have a jumping vac needle, would a bent push rod to an exhaust valve cause this?
