Machined block and head awaiting parts trying to rust

A

Anlushac11

1K+
VIP
What is best to put on block and crank machined surfaces to protect it til it gets assembled?

Been spraying with WD40 and had a can of PB Blaster but they seem to evaporate in a few days.

Will white lithium spray lube hurt anything? Was my understanding that will dry to a chalky powder but just spray it down again and it wipes off.

Was also thinking axle grease but that seems like it would be a pain to clean off.

Thanks for suggestions.
 
Lanolin, in either grease form or spray. Wash off with brake cleaner just when you need to work on it.
 
I looked around for the products I used to use and they all seem to be gone. The few times I have needed something like that recently I have used fogging oil I had on the shelf for other reasons. Seemed to work well and clean up was not bad.

61210_sm.jpg
 
8) you can also use white lithium grease or assembly lube, royal purple makes a good assembly lube.
 
An old bath, and Witrex 425, and occasional heating and circultation. back when I got it from Mobil, it was Whitrex 307. It's held my old machined 228 engine since 2001.


http://www.barmacinc.com/amsoilpdfs/Ind ... 0Guide.pdf

The oil is used as a sheep doser for worms, oil bath fliud for Saybolt tube cutback lab tests to 400 degrees F, and, at 80 degrees F, a massage parlour oil. :wink:
 
if it is all unassembled look into some wax. when I worked packing parts for CAT we had a wax (I think it was ammonia based or something) we put on some parts (brownish color that dried to a tacky film) and some got a coating of a blue soy "grease" (mostly this was cams and other machined parts) for bolts and other hardware we had a vat of heated oil we just dipped them in and drained the excess off of.

wonder if you could thin some axle grease with lacquer and apply that? I would thin to the point it is like paint.....jsut thin enough to brush on. once the thinner evaps you should have a nice film left behind?

if it is something you have regular access to I would just dripple some 30w over it every couple weeks. gear lube seems to stick better to parts (ever have some trans or rear end parts laying around a garage for YEARS with any issues?)

don't forget to bag it too.
 
Cosmoline,,,, used to store firearms for long periods of time, also when shipping over seas where weapons may be subject to salt water or humid conditions, weapons are coated with canuba wax and sealed in celaphane

WD40 is water based and will promote rusting not a good choice for anything
 
Goin tomorrow to get a bottle of gear lube and a paint brush or just gonna get axle grease and glob and smear it all over.

Block will need to be washed before assembly anyways.

With any luck at all I am hoping to order my pistons Friday but it will still be 4-8 weeks before I get them so it will have to stay rust free for that long. If I cant get it under control I will wrap it up and sneak it into my bedroom while roommate is out. Could use a night stand til spring.
 
Would it be a good idea to cover machined surfaces(cylinder walls, crankshaft) in gear oil and wrap the entire block/shaft with plastic wrap?

I was wondering something along the lines of this thread for when I get my block bored and the crank ground. The only place I'll be able to store mine aside from an old pole barn is my woodshop.
 
i'd got with some sort of grease, not an oil or a lube
grease sticks, oil/lube slides off
 
I would definitely go with grease, and wrap with saran wrap or waxed paper to keep grease off of everything else it comes into contact with. You can brush axle grease easily enough, and cleans up well with any solvent.
 
i need to correct my statement, change canuba wax to cosmoline,,,,, sorry i am getting old
canuba wax was what we put on our surf boards
 
bentwire":20mf55io said:
WD40 is water based and will promote rusting not a good choice for anything
Click to expand...

A product specifically formulated to displace water and prevent rust is water based?

No.

Wikipedia":20mf55io said:
WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

* 50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
* 25%: Liquified petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
* 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
* 10-%: Inert ingredients
Click to expand...

Not sure it's the best for this particular application, but if it promotes rust it works in the exact opposite way to what it was developed for.

What about plain petroleum jelly?
 
Couple of days ago got block moved into my bedroom by some neighbor kids.

Tried to wipe down cylinder walls with red shop towel and 10w40 motor oil to remove rust.

The surface rust is gone and cross hatch pattern is still there but I now have thousands of tiny rust "freckles" which I assume are pits in the cylinder walls caused by rust.

Can this be honed out or am I going to have to get it bored?

It was bored .030" last time. I have held off ordering pistons til I see whats up on the block.

This time I have a tub of axle grease Im going to put on it til assembly time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top