Mike Crate Engine ?

T

Timnmelinda

Well-known member
Mike I know you have been very busy with the head projects, but is there a real update or guesstimate timeline for the crate engines?

Anyone else have a source for something decent in a 200 six if these are going to be a while from Mike?

So far this seems to be the leader from what I can find

http://remanufactured.com/Ford_6_Cylinder_Engines.htm

Any comments or thoughts>

My rings are getting worse, probably when income tax refund comes, I am going to have to do something......Really interest in whats up mike's sleeve, but if that is not going to be a reality in the near future I have to buy something else or rebuild.....Why is it always decisions, decisions?

Tim
 
8) tim for the near future, i would buy a core engine from a salvage yard and rebuild it. that way you can swap the rebuild in on a weekend so you dont have the car down for too long. i have a feeling it will be a while yet before mike starts offering reman crate engines.
 
You probably can't rebuild one for anywhere near the price of that reman longblock. Unless you are just throwing one together to do it, not caring about machining and clearances and tolerances. Do you know if they already have them or do you have to send them your block to finish? (round trip shipping) You can also find them on Ebay.
 
rbohm":p3s0tytr said:
8) tim for the near future, i would buy a core engine from a salvage yard and rebuild it. that way you can swap the rebuild in on a weekend so you dont have the car down for too long. i have a feeling it will be a while yet before mike starts offering reman crate engines.
Click to expand...
i'll second that. this way you'll have a spare to rebuild 8)
$1400 is a lot of coin. if there is a problem you're out your old engine and have to ship the new one back. that's time and more money.

check a local mustang club, someone might have a good one in their garage from a V8 conversion :idea:
 
I am guessing this would be the best to order for my Mustang if I would go with the long block from this outfit

69-76 1 3/4" Carb Throat, No Sm

Would that be the best choice, of all that is offered?

It would be 1485.00 without shipping my old block
12 month unlimited milage warranty
If I ship the old block back, add 100.00 in shipping, then I get 300.00 core refund (So basically get 200.00 for origional core returned)

Remanufactured shortblocks are generally $300 less than longblocks listed with core deposit at approximately 2/3 of a remanufactured longblock.


I would mount mu DUI and headers and then upgrade to two barrel carb........before the block went in car, I would have to think seriously about upgrading to a mild cam and better timing chain....The cam and timing chain would no doubt void the warranty I would love to put on one of the aluminum heads but will most likley not be able to afford it on top of the rest.

The car is a driver, not a racer, What do you all think is the way to go on this ? I really need and want some advice (Of course, my local garage is saying just get rid of the car now, engines is tired needs a rebuild, trans will need freshened up, but I figure I have gone this far spending more money that I should have put into it, I may as well stick a little more into it and keep it for a long time, I have past the point of return, I do not believe I could sell it and get my money out of, Besides we Love the car! ) A good friend and I will swap it all out what ever we decide to do.

So please give me feedback, ideas, suggestions, I want to do it right but I do have to watch costs, however I will not be penny smart and dollar foolish, Allthough some would say I am having put what I have into this car, and I guess I am not done.

Tim
 
grocery getter":3jiropn5 said:
rbohm":3jiropn5 said:
8) tim for the near future, i would buy a core engine from a salvage yard and rebuild it. that way you can swap the rebuild in on a weekend so you dont have the car down for too long. i have a feeling it will be a while yet before mike starts offering reman crate engines.
Click to expand...
i'll second that. this way you'll have a spare to rebuild 8)
$1400 is a lot of coin. if there is a problem you're out your old engine and have to ship the new one back. that's time and more money.

check a local mustang club, someone might have a good one in their garage from a V8 conversion :idea:
Click to expand...
 
for $1500 plus whatever shipping might run, I'd think you could find an area engine builder to rebuild it with "upgrades" for less.

I'm with you though, I'm anxious to see what type of crate motor Mike will offer. At least with Mike, you know whatever you buy will be truly the most you can get for a particular price or package.
 
If you can't find an area engine builder for less, I'd go for the reman long block, keep it stock (no cam/timing upgrades), drive it around for while and put some miles on it. Once the warranty expires and you know it's a reliable engine, upgraded and by then you might have a few bucks saved up for an aluminum head. Sell the stock left over parts.
I'd also ship back the core after I was confident with the new motor. how long do you have until you're required to send back the core?
 
They say core must be returned within 30 days


Others are saying rebuild mine but I frankly wonder if I can do a decent rebuild for much less, cooking block bore it, If I am doing it I would deck it and of course valve job plus mill head again I would want at least factory compression or a hair higher, buying a decent quality rebuild kit and so on.......So I am still taking in everyones advice and waying it all in my mind
 
I did a quick cost check for parts through the fordsix shop you're in the $800.00 area in parts with your choice of cam 8)

according to the website you linked. if they rebuild your's, you'll save 5% they might put in one of mikes cams for you and you'd still get the warranty :idea:

again, if you have any mustang clubs in your area you might find a nice 200 in one of their garages from a V8 conversion they'd let go cheap. that will free up some cash for an aluminum head 8)
 
When I rebuilt both my 200 and 250, I put well over 2000.00 in each. When you consider the block and head being hot tanked and magnafluxed, and whatever the machine shop has to do to the block, (decking and milling the head) the new bearings and pistons (oversized), headwork (new valves, springs to go with new cam and cam bearings, lifters, and freeze plugs, paint for motor. Also, installed Duraspark II and new starter and water pump and fuel pump and oil pump, gasket set. And believe me there will be more to spend your hard earned money on, (plastigage, silicone, antiseize, you get the picture). Now, you can scrimp and save and re-use all the old stuff, but what if it fails, No warranty at all. Now, I'm not saying do not do the work yourself, because thats what it's all about. Doing it with your own hands, and learning all about your engine. But, if you are just wanting to get a motor and get the car going with a warranty, The plan would be to find an area builder and check with them, (I doubt you can find someone for less than 2000.00), or buy the long block. I thought that it said in the ad that shipping was round trip? There's to you and your core to them?
 
Have you got a local buy and sell classifieds? Put in an ad looking for one.
I suspect there are a few sixes sitting around in peoples' yards, garages, old fairmonts, etc. I mention this only because I know a guy with a low miles 250 he'd sell for $200. Got like 30k on it, and that's what I would look for if I needed to drop in a running engine.
 
Who cares more about your car and how the engine in it runs?

You, or some dude who makes 7.00$ an hour slapping parts together probably while on meth or stoned?

You can do a stock rebuild for WAY less than 1400$ if you do the labor yourself. There are plenty of people on this board who would be willing to help you out and teach you how - and frankly, it's not that hard.

And in the end, you will really understand how your engine works, you will know what parts are in it, and you will feel confident in it driving down the road.

I've seen the way a lot of these engines are built, and they have all sorts of weird issues. Its like remanned carbs - they strip a whole bunch of blocks down, throw all the parts in a pile, sort out the still usable parts, and slap the blocks back together. You end up with different year rods, random deck heights, random compression ratio - different dish on the pistons, etc.

The only way I would use one of these reman engines is if you bought a car w/ a blown motor and were trying to flip it for profit - and your time was a factor.
 
I have found an ad for 74 Maverick 6 cylinder (Engine not car)
says rebuilt 10,000 miles ago asking 150.00

Figured I would call, see if he still has it try to go 100/125.00

Of course I have to find out if it is 200 or 250
Will this engine still fit my bellhousing?

I figure if it is really recently rebuilt I can go with it and if not it would give me something to start on.

I would of course think I should pull pan and take a look how things appear

If he still has, is there anything special I should look for?
Also does this sound like it would be a good possible choice?

Tim
 
Sounds like a good safe bet. That might have the flat-topped log, code 6090-M, with larger carb opening (not sure).

'74 ought to be double-drilled, so no hassles matching you existing bellhousing. Just make sure the block casting code is D3 or D4 prefixed...
 
What does the D3 or D4 casting tell me?

Also will I run into problems with Hig or low starter on this,
I ofcourse want to use my existing header and exhaust
 
All 200's excepting some of the 80's models use a high mount starter.

They are also double drilled, so everything will be compatible with your current setup.

Just make sure it's a 200 and not a 250.

D3 or D4 means it is a '73 or '74
 
We're trying to get a crate program going, but are having a tough time finding suitable short/long blocks. Every block we've looked at around here, has already been punched out 60 over. I got a couple other leads I'm chasing and hope one of them pans out. If we can get something to work with, it won't take me long to get things moving as I've did my homework and have two shops set up to do the machine work.

We won't be offering stock motors, as we plan to do performance and custom rebuild that most shops wouldn't know how to do properly. Strokers, turbocharged, supercharged, injected, and so on. :wink:

I've got a company looking for a reasonably priced engine dyno, and once we get a shop we'll do the break-ins on a test stand before they are shipped.

The last step I need to do, is to find a good freight company that doesn't charge an arm and a leg to ship them.
 
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