Build Thread My 61 comet

61 comet

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Its the same running. 12.4-12.6 Evidently these don't use much battery. The gen light has been on since I got it running. When i built the carb i had trouble getting it to run, and run the battery dead. Thats when I started checking voltages. I'm just not sure where to start looking for the issue. It didn't blow a fuse. And the way it blew the lights was odd. Left high left low right low then right high.
Got a new alternator and regulator ordered at napa. Should be able to get those on Friday.
Should have went ahead and got the dimmer switch and headlight switch too.
4 lug 14s would just be temporary. Unless I decided to leave all the 6 cylinder suspension in. I have some 5 lug mustang stuff for it.
Just not enthusiastic about tearing it all apart now that it drives. But its not comfortable at 55 with the steep gears at the moment. Rear end needs seals and brakes rebuilt at a minimum to put it in. But I'm debating on gear ratio. It currently has 2:79s or there abouts. That might be ok for highways. Not sure. Never looked at the gears i had in the mavericks
Getting tired of spending all my free time on it and not getting it out to enjoy it
 
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bubba22349

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It dosent sound like the generator or alternator is charging I forgot which system your using. One thing I found in doing newer engine swaps that have an alternator or if installing an alternator to one the older generator equipped cars / trucks is that the Generator lights in the dash don't have enough resistance to get the alternator to start charging at idle RPM's and you would then need to rev the engine up quite a bit to get it to start chargeing. Anyway your need to find a higher resistance blub that matches like those that were used in the 1965 up Fords with alternator systems that is if you were using an alternator.

That's really not a high enough charging rate or you else your just running off the battery and it's not charging at all, it should be putting out about 13.5 to 14 volts or so. A 12 volt Battery fully charged should be reading around 12.8 to a max of 13.8 volts but this will vary by the area of the country your in. I am mostly only familiar with the voltage readings I got for the Sountern and Central California areas which has the warmer weather just about year round.

I think you have made some outstanding progress in a short amount of time I hear you it s a lot of work bring a car back out of a long slumber and you pracklally have to check everything front to back. Best of luck
 

61 comet

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To me it seems odd that a bulb could prevent the battery from charging. Electrical is definitely not one of my strong points though. But the light stays on so I don't think it is changing
Back in the day that I did work on cars, if you had a short and blew the fuse. Just grab some tinfoil and look for smoke lol
That was when yo could buy a $50-250 car and drive it for 6 months or a year
In my searches for where to start on the short, I keep seeing posts about installing relays. I have a question about that. If the dimmer shorts out does the relay get fried?
 
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Rinke

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I recently ran into a broken generator (I'm still running the original generator) and had to rebuilt it, There was an internal short in the generator.
Took me a while, but with some great help from this forum (Thanks Bubba) I got the old girl going again.

First to check is do you have 12V + whith the engine running above idle?
Them check the generator/alternator to check if it's dead.
Bubba pointed me to some great youtube tutorials:

There are more great tutorials from this guy.

Good luck trouble shooting!

Rinke
 

61 comet

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Reading a mustang forum someone was having similar issues with charging. But they said there was a 15 ohm resistor in the light wiring so that if the bulb blew, the car would still charge. So I pulled the bulb thinking that might work. But nope
 
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bubba22349

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To me it seems odd that a bulb could prevent the battery from charging. Electrical is definitely not one of my strong points though. But the light stays on so I don't think it is changing
Back in the day that I did work on cars, if you had a short and blew the fuse. Just grab some tinfoil and look for smoke lol
That was when yo could buy a $50-250 car and drive it for 6 months or a year
In my searches for where to start on the short, I keep seeing posts about installing relays. I have a question about that. If the dimmer shorts out does the relay get fried?
Generators and Alternator work differently but both have to have some power put into them in order for them to charge. In the old style voltage regulators this was done with electric magnetic switch that was triggered to send the current to start chargeing. Somtime they would fuse the points together (stick closed) and the battery would dran down compleatly. The dash light is conected into the trigger wire if the light is on the generator or alternator isn't charging. If you have an Alernator charging circuit that uses a dash light than you need the bulb in the socket or the correct rated resistor in its place for it to work, the only way to not have the bulb would be to rewire the chargeing circuit to use a Amp Meter or a Volt Meter gauge. Or you could also use the dash light in the circuit too. Which system do you have tge stock 1961 Generator or a newer Alternator? Is the cargeing system wired correctly?

It it might but it's not as likely with a relay system but if you wanted you could install an inline fuse for protection. In your stock head lite wiring system full power from a 10 or 12 gauge wire comes direct from the battery to the head lite switch, then down to your dimmer switch, to the head lite relay, and finally to the head lite bulbs. Because of the lenght of the wires and all the devices the power has to travel through you get a good amount of voltage drop this results in less power at the bulbs which gives you less heard light brightness.

A relay is also a switch that allows you to control a high load circuit with a low load circuit. So the relays get mounted right near the head lite bulbs with the 10 or 12 gauge wire hooked direct to the relay power circuit and the relay output gets hooked with 10 or 12 gauge wires direct to the head lite bulbs these are all very short wire runs so very little voltage drop. This greatly reduces the load that was on the head lite switch and increases its life span as well as the dimmer switch since they only see a much smaller load. Now those two switchs are only used as the trigger for the relay which handles the much higher Amp load of the head lite bulbs. In my OPIN the amount of cost to do a head lite relay system is reasonable for the benafit of better head lite brightness, it could even be done with junk yard parts even cheaper. To me this is also a saftey item in the rural or country areas that don't have much or any street lighting. Best of luck
 

bubba22349

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Do you have a auto parts store close by? Many will test the Alernators for free.
 

61 comet

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Yeah thats one thing this town has is plenty of parts stores
If it needs a different bulb I'll have to figure out what it needs. This bulb is 5.0-6 ohm. From what I was reading there needs to be closer to 10 ohm
Should I have continuity between feild and ground wires from the alternator?
Ok black with a white stripe must go to field on the regulator. Black with a red stripe has continuity with ground and feild on the regulator. I'm just checking things out to make sure its wired correctly
 
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bubba22349

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Here is the wiring diagrams for both a generator and an alternator charging circuits (see link below). If your using the Old Generator wiring for the Alternator the diagram shows the color wires that were used on both systems so that you can hook up the alternator correctly. In 1965 Ford started using the first Alternators so you could get a dash light bulb for a 1965 up and it will be the right resistance for a 1st generation alternator. Best of luck

1960 to 1964 Falcon / Comet Generator's and 1965 and newer Falcon / Comet Alernator Color Coded Wiring Diagrams
 

61 comet

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Here is the wiring diagrams for both a generator and an alternator charging circuits (see link below). If your using the Old Generator wiring for the Alternator the diagram shows the color wires that were used on both systems so that you can hook up the alternator correctly. In 1965 Ford started using the first Alternators so you could get a dash light bulb for a 1965 up and it will be the right resistance for a 1st generation alternator. Best of luck

1960 to 1964 Falcon / Comet Generator's and 1965 and newer Falcon / Comet Alernator Color Coded Wiring Diagrams
I saw that diagram but the colors aren't the same. Theres several versions too. I've even seen post stating which goes where. I wanted to see for myself.
 

bubba22349

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If yours dosnt have the factory wiring colors than it won't match. But Technically the wire colors dont matter, just as long as the wire is the right gauge size and both ends of each individual wire is hooked up correctly to the right Regulator and Alternator posts. This is the wiring diagram I have used to convert many of the old Generator cars over to Alternators using most of the factory generator wire harness then adding one new wire for the Stator. The other way that I like to do is to get a factory Alternator wire harness to install after remove all the generator, Regulator, and it wiring harness, that makes for a clean looking install. If you want to post a picture of your wiring I could check it for you. Best of luck Edited
 

61 comet

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It looks factory. Big yellow/black stripe, small black/white stripe and small black/red stripe. At the regulator the small black wires all look like white stripes. Put a regulator on still didn't charge. Put an alternator on its charging. 13.9 13.6 After starting and idling for a couple minutes it drops to 12.9-12.5 maybe the bulb? Its off now even at idle
The alternator is magnetic so even at 12.5 it must be charging some
Have to get the headlights going next
 

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bubba22349

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Sounds like it's chargeing good now 13.9 to 13.6 after starting is really good. If the dash light is going out that's good too, I would say you have fixed the chargeing system now, congrats!
 

bubba22349

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In the link below is a stock 1961 Comet Wiring Diagram listing each of the factory wire colors. Yes I also see that you are sure right on those generator wire harness colors for your 61 Comet, there is a Black, Black / Red, Black / White, Yellow / Black, and a small Yellow / Black wire going to the generator dash lite. Hope that the wiring disagram will be of some help working on your head lites. Best of luck on getting those head lites working.

1961 Comet Factory Wiring Diagram
 

61 comet

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I have been struggling to find why these hot pins have continuity to ground. Because they have bulbs in them and that leads to ground. duh
Now I'm stumped. the dimmer switch seems good as does the headlight wires in the engine bay. cant tell about the headlight switch. to many places with bulbs to ground. Maybe im doing it all wrong
S post on the starter solenoid both coil wires have continuity to ground. Also arm on the regulator and the hot post on the alternator.
Can a bad regulator cause the headlights to blow?
 
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bubba22349

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I assum you are you using the nice looking meter pictured above to test with? Yes if the wires are in good condistion ie no breaks in them then yes you would see continuity for them by holding one the leads of a volt / ohm meter at one end of the wire and the other lead at the other end of the circuit wire this wouldn't be grounded. The Solinod S termanl should only be hooked up to the ignistion switch to the starter wire. The I terminal will go the the ignistion coil and will supply a full 12 volts for starting it only is connected when the starter is energized by the S terminal. The rest of the time when the ignistion switch is in the run position the coil sees 7 to 8 volts. Best of luck Edited
 

61 comet

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Multimeter. Everything seems to check out ok. So I put a headlight in just to test and it works. Only thing I can think of is that the bad regulator shorted and blew the headlights. But I haven't tried high beams yet
 

philford

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blowing headlights must be overvoltage? 6 volt headlights? stuck regulator. is battery cooking?

how can one possibly short a headlight and blow it? it gets 12 volts it turns on right?

but the power feed to the headlights could short. that wouldnt hurt the bulbs.
 

philford

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i shortened a driveshaft and struggled a bit with balance.
i took and had it balanced on a machine. they did it better than i could. mine had had 3 u joints with a support bearing. they welded on washers.
 
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