All Small Six New alternator help

This relates to all small sixes

beanmiester

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I need some help deciding between these two powermaster alternators.



I've decided to just go with a 200 amp because of all the electrical nonsense thats being added to this car. The fan and ac have a big draw. Thats only going to get worse when the radio gets installed. The previous owner put some crazy speakers in it.

Both say they have an internal regulator but the one ending in 59 says its not one wire capable. Im just wondering what one would work best and what id have to do with the one thats not one wire capable
 
What are vehicle are you upgrading the alt in? At the very least you need 2 pulleys on the new alt unless your vehicle is set up for serpentine belt and the associated pulleys on the balancer. And electrical upgrades, wiring and stuff. The Ford 3G is often used but not sure if they are available at 200 amp.

This is from a post I read:
"Go with the 90 amp version and size the pulley to a 2 to 1 ratio with the crank pulley. The 120 amp 3G alternator, both really, produce alot of charging at really low rpms, near idle. Unless you are running 2v pulley's with matched belts or a serpentine setup it will squeal when charging at start up or when needed and you'll screw up the alternators bearings trying to stop it by re-tightening the belt all the time and changing belts every month or 3. The 90 amp model is more than adequate, has all the low rpm charging of the 120 but will run good on a single belt at a 2:1 ratio, which is where you need to run it. Ask me how I know"
 
What are vehicle are you upgrading the alt in? At the very least you need 2 pulleys on the new alt unless your vehicle is set up for serpentine belt and the associated pulleys on the balancer. And electrical upgrades, wiring and stuff. The Ford 3G is often used but not sure if they are available at 200 amp.

This is from a post I read:
"Go with the 90 amp version and size the pulley to a 2 to 1 ratio with the crank pulley. The 120 amp 3G alternator, both really, produce alot of charging at really low rpms, near idle. Unless you are running 2v pulley's with matched belts or a serpentine setup it will squeal when charging at start up or when needed and you'll screw up the alternators bearings trying to stop it by re-tightening the belt all the time and changing belts every month or 3. The 90 amp model is more than adequate, has all the low rpm charging of the 120 but will run good on a single belt at a 2:1 ratio, which is where you need to run it. Ask me how I know"
A mustang. I have ac in it so a belt comes off the compressor and goes up to the alternator. Also a 3g is the one with 3 wires right? If so the one ending in 59 is a 3g. Really I'm wondering if one wire or three would be better
 
Hi, add up the amps on the fuse block, and any accessories hooked up directly to the battery, excluding the starter. The total will not come near 200 amps, probably less than 100. My 2022 F150 has a 175 amp system, with a gel cell battery, and many electric goodies including electric steering. Good luck
 
The belt set up on the 200 with ac is …less than desirable 😣. The ac and alternator run off one belt. It is a lot to ask of a v belt!! Plus you have to loosen one, then tighten the other, then retighten the first one😵‍💫😵‍💫I want to figure out how to run at least 2 belts or a serpentine— I’m not there yet🥹. Without the belt modification I would stick with a 100 amp. Remember Powermaster wants you to send the whole thing back for repair but you can get correct parts (brush set, slip ring- what brushes ride against, rectifier, and regulator) , from Amazon and probably auto parts stores.
 
I installed a 10si on my 200 and 240. Easy to get and not expensive. I am not a fan of one wire alternators and would recommend a 3 wire.
 
So a buddy of mine had a powermaster 120 amp 3 wire alternator he didn't need so I have an alternator now but on the directions it wants me to splice into the voltage regulator on the green with red wire but the green with red that went to the alternator from the voltage regulator was absolutely cooked at some point in this car's life. How do I wire this now.
 

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So a buddy of mine had a powermaster 120 amp 3 wire alternator he didn't need so I have an alternator now but on the directions it wants me to splice into the voltage regulator on the green with red wire but the green with red that went to the alternator from the voltage regulator was absolutely cooked at some point in this car's life. How do I wire this now.
Also my plug at the voltage controller doesn't have a red wire. Just white, red with green, and yellow
 
Or is this saying I just splice into the old external regulator plug at the external regulator and not both the 3 prong plug and regulator plug
 

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that’s the advantage of one wire on older cars- none of the original wiring is used, eliminates the old style regulator- steady 14 v even at idle
You could run a new wire to the regulator, the wiring diagram from Powermaster indicates to tap into one place
 
Ah ok so I was over thinking it. Then I am able to hook it up fairly easily. That side of the regulator is fine. The part that plugs into an alternator is not
 
If one of my belts snaps or needs to be replaced I'm not doing it 😂. With the aftermarket ac bracket thing the alternator belt was just slightly to short to easily get it on and because of that the ac compressor had to be in a position that made the drive belt just slightly too short to easily get it on. Luckily both the alternator belt and drive belt still need to be tensioned so they aren't stretched out or anything. Its just a huge pain to get the belts on. I now see why people want a serpentine belt conversion thingy.
 
Ok so I have everything but the green wire done. Im a little confused on the verbiage. I have a 3 wire external regulator plug so is it saying that instead of me splicing into the green and red at the plug, I'm supposed to splice into the white wire with a resistor instead?

Also I checked with a light tester thing and the Green wire and yellow are the only one that supply power when the key is in the on/run position
 

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