New to me 1964 Ford Falcon

asesapie

New member
Very excited to have had my new purchase delivered to me today from the other side of the state, my new to me 1964 Ford Falcon.

The Falcon has a straight six of course that is a 200 not original to the car with a c4 trans with floor shifter. Was originally a column shift manual as far as I can tell. Runs but needs a new fuel pump.

The odd thing about it is the driver side leans pretty hard. It has a tilt to the drivers side of the car if you look at it from the front or rear. Not sure why yet but everything underneath looks okay from what I could see tonight. What do you guys think it could be?

I'll get some better pics tomorrow in the light.






You can see the lean in this pic
 

B RON CO

Famous Member
Hi, the first thing that comes to mind is that was an old drag racers trick to improve traction off the line and improve right tire traction. They would add a leaf spring to the right side or put more air pressure in the right side air shock. If that is not it I would check for broken leaf springs, shackles etc. Also it was common back in the day to put a coil spring helper to lift sagging coils so maybe you have one on the right front and none on the left. So I would start looking at the whole suspension for worn out parts especially ball joints and tie rods for safety. Also pull the brake drums and check the wheel cylinders and all the brake stuff for safety, and repack the front wheel bearings and grease the whole thing. before you take it out. You should also get the Falcon Performance Handbook, and read some old posts for much more Ford info. Good luck
 

asesapie

New member
The car was running driving 6 months ago and has been parked since. It was his brothers car who passed away. So here are some more pics of the car that I snapped real quick before work this morning. I think I solved the issue with the lean. I wasn't able to really get under and look around at the car last night but this morning I did and found the rear shock on the pass side to be full extended and stuck as if it's seized. So I'll snag some new shocks and hopefully that will remedy that issue. Thanks for the quick response and suggestions on what to look for. The springs front and rear are the same as far as I can tell by looking at them.












Here's the pass rear shock that looks seized fully extended or its bent and that's why it's stuck like that.
 

wsa111

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Nice, will need a little work, but the interior looks super.
 

B RON CO

Famous Member
Hi, it looks like a pretty nice car. New brake hoses too. Check out the brakes anyway. Show an under hood picture. Good luck
 

bubba22349

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:beer: congrats that seems to be a very solid car! The 1964 and 65's Falcons are a big faveriote of mine! Good luck :nod:
 

asesapie

New member
Thanks everyone I'm excited to have found the car. It will be my daily shared between my 70 C10.

I snapped some more pics of the car for everyone. I also removed the bad shock and that leveled out the car so that was the problem. Also the distributor is something I'm not used to but the coil box says "OMNI SPARK" looks like the PO's brother was adding some parts to it that weren't original. Are these distributors good?













 

B RON CO

Famous Member
Hi, Omni is a non stock performance coil the ignition is upgraded to Ford duraspark from the 1980. I would think you will find more upgrades. Good luck
 

B RON CO

Famous Member
Your head is also an improvement, a later head with larger valves, and hardened valve seats. Get the Falcon Performance Handbook to get all this info about your engine. It looks like a great find, and getting better
Good luck
 

asesapie

New member
Well I got the Falcon running but it doesn't run well. The reman autolite that is on the car is not working well. It likely needs a tune up as well and brakes and tie rod ends. I guess some normal maintenance.

My question is now what size brakes does this car have? It was originally born with the 170 and a 3 speed on column. I see three different sizes of brakes which I didn't expect when searching this specific car with the 170 engine. Can anyone help me know what size brakes I have without having to take them apart first. Has the typical 7-1/2 rear end most inline 6 cars have.

Also what year for the duraspark distributor should i look for new cap, rotor wires etc?
 

B RON CO

Famous Member
Hi, you have a later large cap distributor, not sure of the years (it was a while ago). Get to know the local parts guy, they will help sort through it. As for the brake shoes, all I can tell you is there are different drum diameters, and different shoe widths. I have seen plenty of heavy duty vans, which came with a big shoe width, end up with a regular shoe, with a narrow width. I personally check the shoes to match for profile and depth, as well as how they fit in the drum on every brake job I do. Talk to the parts guy, they should have the most popular shoes in stock, and if not let them order it to match what you have. This is just part of the fun of taking care of a classic car. Remember to match what you have, and the small primary shoe goes in front, and the larger secondary shoe goes in the rear. The engine may be running poorly due to old stale gas, or you may need to clean the whole fuel system. Good luck
 

asesapie

New member
I guess I'm used to a model of car only having the one selection for replacement brake parts not multiple. Was hoping I could pick them up on the way home without having to take the brakes apart first.

Is it more common for the v8 cars to have the 10" and the I6 cars to have the 9"?
 

bubba22349

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Your Falcon originally being a six will have the 9 inch drum brakes and Yes your assumptions are correct that only the V8 cars will have the 10 inch drums. The fronts on your Falcon are 2 1/4 inch wide and the rears could be one of two sizes depending on when it was originally built. The early cars had 1 1/2 inch wide rear shoes then on Feb. 03, 1964 the Falcons six'es got an upgrade to 1 3/4 inch wide shoes (you can find the cars build date on the door data tag if it's still the original door). Or if you want I can decode your Vin number for you too. It would be easy enough though to pull one rear wheel and slide the rear drum off to measure your shoes if your in doubt.

On the DuraSpark II the wide cap was used on the 1976 and newer 200 six'es to about 1982 or 83, the same cap and rotor is used for all years, plugs, wire sets should also be the same. You might also start a note book listing all the part numbers, brands etc. as you find them out, this can save you time later as replacement parts are needed. Good luck :nod:
 

bmbm40

1K+
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Wow these guys are good!
That is a real nice Falcon to have you will enjoy driving that for sure. By all means get the Falcon Performance Hand book it is a very inexpensive and invaluable resource and just fun to read.
 

asesapie

New member
Things are moving along. So far I've replaced the water pump,rad hoses, heater hoses and flushed the rad to fix a coolant leak. Then replaced the pan gasket to get a peak inside the bottom end of the engine and it looked good. Did the trans pan gasket and filter as well. From there I rerouted the trans cooler lines to allo room for the header. Then I did the brakes and had to replace the drivers side drum as it was frozen to the shoes and destroyed. Re-picked all the bearings and got the brakes back together. Today I managed to swap in the new tierod ends which the old ones were completely smoked. Finally I got the new Weber 38/38 on with a fuel pressure reg and the engine fired right up. Runs good with the new carb. Oh I also did a full tune up and changed all fluids and greased the ball joints and changed out the grease in the steering box, there was some nasty sludge like crap in there.

The one weird thing I've found so far is that the ignition switch will not kill power to the engine. I have to pull the coil wire off to kill it. Any ideas why that is? Would it be the ignition switch?

That's where I'm at now and getting the new tires on this afternoon.
 

bubba22349

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Yes it could be that the ignistion switch is worn out if you have a Volt / Ohm meter or a simple 12 volt test light you can test to see if it's working correctly. Another thing could be by how the previous owner wired up the DSII. Good luck :nod:
 

asesapie

New member
I hope it's just the ignition switch. I want to say that the first time I got it running I was able to shut it down with the ignition switch.

If it ends up not being the case and it's the DSII how would the wiring keep it from shutting down with the ignition switch? How does the wiring for one of those go or work out?
 

bubba22349

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Here is a recent post I did on wiring the DSII.

There a number of ways to wire a DuraSpark II system (DSII) depending on how much rewiring of your car you want to do.

Here is how I did it on a number of early cars and trucks that is very simple and it keeps and uses all the car or trucks original wiring only adding one or two new wires. Also if you should ever want to return to the stock system it's easy to change back.

1. With the new DSII Distributor installed its 3 Wire socket pluggs into the DSII wire harnesses 3 wire plug and then you can start to route the DSII wire harness.

2. The Ignition Control Module (ICM) gets mounted to the inter fender panel and the DSII harness 4 wire plug goes into the ICM 4 wire socket. Some people run an extra ground wire to one of the mounting screws if the inter fender panel is made of metal it probally isn't nessisary but it won't hurt if you want to.

3. I used most all of the stock vehicle wiring including the Pink Resistor wire that goes to the Bat. Or + Side of the stock Ford coil. This Pink wire goes right into the DuraSpark II coils Red wire hooked up to the Battery or + side of the new DSII coil. Also the other wire coming from the I terminal ( for extra voltage when starting) of the starter solinod goes onto this same + Red wire.

4. The DSII horseshoe clip is made so that the Green wire coming out of the DSII wire harness plugs onto the Tach or the - side of the coil, so you just plug it on as is.

5. The ICM 2 wire plug socket is plugged into the 2 wire plug and has a Red and a White wire coming out of it. I ran a new wire connecting this Red wire and splicing it into the Pink wire about 2 or 3 inches under the dash behind the ignistion switch so it's before the Resistor in the Pink wire, I even used a Crimp On type Splice Connector so I didn't have to cut any of the orginal wiring harness. If you have a Volt / Ohm meter probe the wire there you are looking for at least a full 12 + volts with the Key on in the Run position as the ICM needs a full 12 volts to run correctly. This is all you really need to make it run and many people don't even bother to hookup the White wire. The White wire though is the Ignistion retard feature of the ICM and is a good idea to hookup. To do so just run a new wire connecting the White wire over to the S terminal of the starter solenoid and now your all done and can Enjoy all the benifits of the new DSII system. Good luck :nod:
 

asesapie

New member
Well it wasn't the ignition switch. I installed the new one today and same issue were the car won't shut off with the key. I replaced the alternator while I was at it cause I found out that was bad so the "gen" light on the dash comes on now but that won't go out as well. Seems like the ignition has power all the time not controlled through the key, does that sound right considering when I hook the battery up the gen light comes on and be next morning my battery was flat dead?
 
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