New tri Weber engine build.

Most pictures can be drag n dropped into your post. What kind of a format file are your pics?
 
one link above - she no aworka, da odder I C what looks like an RBS and a ? (that 1 takes over the whole frnt 1/2 of the motor). What is that carb toward frnt of motor?

Have U seen the other jobs on here? used the search function? One of the better ones shows a californian (non-member but longer term visitor) drive his test ina hood-off early stang...(6 Mukunis or Kehiens). U start your thread with what seems an Offie trips approach (3 dwn draft webers) and now goes onto a "logottomy". Use of the Offie (Offenhauser made 2 2 carb intakes for the year 'break. One pre that yr, one post that yr.) avoids ur making ur own intake. Lynx made a 6 port intake, but don't think there's a symesed port one (our 3 / 4 ports jamed together) for us (anymore). Check GB and AU as that's where I saw folk use them (for other heads than 'ours'). "X" (also from 'AU' actually NZ, has shown individual short tubes - pre made [specifically as intakes] for this) also from LYNX(?). I say use the bike carb's 'manafods' as the above calif guy did or I take steel/iron pipe, cut to length, weld on flange (or even a plenum as 'powerband' nother member here has) and adapt from there. Powerband has not shown us 4+ carbs tho. He, as will X, takes PMs from here. Go to their avetar, hover, it opens a small paine, click on "start a conversation". Post a note...
 
Pics are .jpg, from my cellphone, tryed linking them from my Google drive. Didn't work. Now what to do?
 
Chad, thanks for the advice. The carb on the log in car pic, is a GM 2-jet. It has the same heigt as the Weber 44 IDF.
I'we been readig up on extacys posts on Weber sizeing for varius applications. With an intake runner of id 44mm, weber IDF 44 with 38mm venturis, intake runner length from butterfly to valve head aprox 160mm and Hooker long tube 6 to 2.
My choise stand betwen: 200 or 250 block, 200 is an C6, and 250 is a D8 casting. Lavrons bottom end, or the latest " Build by commitie" bottom end. Hard choise.. Valve lengths, springs, milling of spring seats in head retainers and rockers yet to be decided on.. Oh and camshaft, mecanic flattappet, but witch one, high lift and wide lsa? What duration? Diffrent one for 200 and 250?
 
Hi Jaan-e, a JPEG file should work. If you want I can post them for you send me a PM then I will give you an email you can send them too. Cams can fit both a 200 or 250 in a bigger engine like the 250 the cam is more tame then the same grind in a 200 block. You might not get the Hooker headers to fit on a 250 if they were designed / or made for a 200 engine. Since the 250 is much taller than a 200 Hooker made two sets of headers one for the 144, 170, and 200's, and anther longer set for the 250's. Picking the right cam is important and depends on the cars planed use i.e. a street diver, street and race, or all out race car. Best of luck
 
actually that head does take the Lynx. But i'd do as U. Only toa flang 1st due to the weld W/cast iron. I don't envy U if in europe & goin 4 u.s of a or Oz parts...
 
received_168423611693865.jpeg
What do you know! Some times you don’t have to cross the creek for water.. Found thees hanging in a friends barn roof.. Hooker 6601, never run, just tested for fitment on a Mustang - 70 Ht /250cid.. Didn't fit, went in barn. 30 years ago. Got them for 100$.
 
That's a great find and a great deal for a set of Hookers.
 
hahaha 6601 plenty guys over here lookin 4 dem! Out of production here, now.
"Long tube Hooker headers" (or is it 6602 for my 4.1L? I think they R the only ones to make long tubes for the i6) course they still make the ones I DONT want (shorties)...

"...don’t have to cross the creek..."
a water mass for more water? unusual (is it called annalogy?)..."saying" anyway. U usually have to cross the pond for parts. Not w/this one. Darn ur english is good.
Last pic I can C what u r doing pretty good. Y not make a 'flange' for the carbs like U do for the headers ('pipes' whatever is correct in ur language)? W/cast'n weld I'd B concerned. Such small lill tacs (so as to not heat/crack the cast iron) I'd think easier/safer to use a flange?
 
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Haha, i don't know about good English.. The mockup was primary for checking the headers for straightnes. There Will be a flange for each carb, tacked in place and brassed, to avoid cracks in the casted parts. I was a bit curious about height and side ways fitment of the carbs, there of the temporary fitment of rocker cover and pipe bends.
IF I was to buy two Exhaust port dividers and have them sent to Sweden, from whom would i buy them for air freight / fast shipping?
I'll be thankful for Any advice.
 
I dont seeing anything for your last picture posted. Vintage Inlines has the exhaust port dividers
www.vintageinlines.com

Exhaust Port Divider, 6 Cylinder | Vintage Inlines

Here it is, the controversial port divider! The theory is that if the siamesed #3 & 4 exhaust ports are separated, the resulting "balance" will help performance. If used, this piece must be installed per the manufacturers instructions! Do not do it any other way. Tack weld it in with a nickle...
www.vintageinlines.com www.vintageinlines.com
Clifford Performance? Also use too carry them, but I don't see a listing anymore. Don't know who might be the best on the shipping to you.
 
Ordered two from Cj, 103$, with shipping. plus custom and tax in Sweden.. Luckylie there's a new paycheck each month..
 
They have been around quite awhile, I got some parts from them years ago when I was building some Mustangs.
 
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