One of the other members here grabbed them earlier today.I was just going to buy them after adding money to an account.... Looks like someone else grabbed them
I just noticed, do you think they are still useable with the rust spots? I wasn't too worried until I seen some brown-spots on the cross-hatched part.One of the other members here grabbed them earlier today.
Get the other set.
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Nothing I just know they are basically a good rod to have, price wise and availability...$200 for something I know I could get rid of in a pinch for at least half is worth it to me to hold on in case I decide on a 300 build. I'm never looking for more than around 4-500 ft lbs. So far i have a ported carb head, and other various parts. I was seeing titanium valves used on race cars for like 1-2 runs going really cheap on ebay too. Wonder if they could be modified. I have a 6r80 adapter in case i wanna use the 300 too... I just havnt decided because cost issues but it would be really fun. I think just a 52-57mm turbo 7-10psi is all i would ever need. But e85 is something ive always wanted pretty bad.
If I can build something cheap and its decent fun, ill try it out, its why I like the 300/6... i havnt learned enough about building motors yet to know what to do though exactly, just lots and lots of pieces of information that havnt all clicked together yet exactly but I'm getting there. In general I like a 12 second vehicle or so, just enough to shut down anything stock on the streets and a the newer f150 does around a mid low 12 but im at 4400# currently. So I figure around 4-500ft lbs should do it. Once I get close I'll make more aero and suspension adjustments and then go back to the motor if need be. Im not for /against n/a or forced induction, I understand the .912 pin is not as good for boosted motors. Would using .912 rods require .40 overbore? I vaguely remember 351 are .40 over a stock 300 and just curious. I would like a stock bore size so I wouldn't need a machine shop just maybe do a crosshatch cleanup myself but youve warned me before pretty much any used motor will need cylinder work. Which is why I wonder if a different motor like a 4.6 modular is more bang for the buck... Once I have to take it to a machine shop and start paying $1000+ it really eats into the budget.
I spent hours finding valves that might fit or were super close to the ford 300/6 but I dont know crap about the geometry and what lengths would work, i was thinking about getting an old sioux valve machine , if that would even work on titanium? Or figuring out a way to make the big 2.02++ diameter valves down to what we need like 1.94 or smaller. But the length and thickness, whether i can use certain guides instead of our normal stem thickness... Im just a budget builder but havnt learned all the skills yet, ive even though of casting stuff like valves or pistons with melted down parts like they did way back in the pre 70s.. i have tons of wood and tools left from an old family member but no idea what im doing yet, need to read more books, too busy working and dreaming. The attached picture i didnt even look at the sizes, just showing an example, ever seen them on ebay before? Theyve been posting for months , i havnt looked in a while though, they had hundreds of loghtly used valves for 1/10th the price i suppose.
