Ok I need some serious help understanding this

Positively Ralf

Well-known member
NO joke, I think my brain is being fried from all of the info I've read. It's not that it's a lot, it's that all of this auto talk and acronyms make my head hurt since I seem to always forget what they mean. I'm up to the Aluminim Cylinder Head part and I keep reding how this is the best of the best when it comes to modding the inline six.

Here's my questions :

1. Is getting this thing a good idea for a street car? I'm not a racer or anything so I'm not looking for super performance out of my engine.

2. Is this basically the same thing as the Australian 2V head that their 250s had? Or does this head offer something better than the Aussie head?

3. Speaking of the Aussie head and the CI head, what's the hood clearance like when installed? Is it as tight as a 2v on an adapter or will there be more room to work with?

4. What is the overall advantage in getting the CI head for the motor itself? I may go this route since one of the guys here told me it's better off this way since the price of importing a used one along with a possible rebuild would match up the price of the CI head.

Sorry for all the questions but like I said, I'm honestly really really confused after everything I've read so far on this site. Thanks for any replies! Back to more reading :beer:
 
1. Is getting this thing a good idea for a street car? I'm not a racer or anything so I'm not looking for super performance out of my engine.
This is like asking if it's a good idea to install headers, or a cam. The more performance parts you install, the more power potential you'll have.

2. Is this basically the same thing as the Australian 2V head that their 250s had? Or does this head offer something better than the Aussie head?
While the aluminum head was based on the OZ250 head, it has several improvements, including high velocity ports, fast burn chambers, superior flow rates, and a much better intake to exhaust ratio. Any good cylinder head will have a ratio of 70-80 percent (for example, if the intake flows 100cfm, the exhaust should flow 70-80cfm). A stock log head has a 65-70% ratio, while the OZ head only has a 60-65% ratio. The reason for this is simple. While they increase flow by modifing the intake ports and going with a removable intake manifold, they failed to make any improvements to the exhaust ports, thus lowering the ratio. When we designed the aluminum head we modified the exhaust ports, dramatically increasing flow. This gives the aluminum head a ratio of 75-80%.

3. Speaking of the Aussie head and the CI head, what's the hood clearance like when installed? Is it as tight as a 2v on an adapter or will there be more room to work with?
To get the flow rates we wanted we had to raise the intake and exhaust ports about one inch. As such, the intake manifold and carb also sit one inch higher, thus reducing hood clearance. Most guys have found that a carb hat (commonly used in turbo applications) with a remote air filter works best, as it eliminates any clearance issues.

4. What is the overall advantage in getting the CI head for the motor itself? I may go this route since one of the guys here told me it's better off this way since the price of importing a used one along with a possible rebuild would match up the price of the CI head.
Simply put, it has more power potential. If you swapped just the cylinder head on a mild performance motor, the OZ head will gain 35-40HP, while the aluminum head will gain 65-70HP. Plus its 40-45 lbs lighter. :wink:

Hope this answered your questions adequately.
 
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