old motor no money wondering how to start

[Anonymous]

hey guys i have been unable to log in for a while, good to be back. when i was last here i had just found out the motor i took for rebuild was trash 1/8 crack in cyl. wall. i have another spare motor supp. 30,000 miles. i was thinking about squirting a little marvel mys. oil in each cyl and let it sit for a while before trying to turn it over. it has been sitting 14 years. i know the sensible thing woulbe to take for freshening up, but funds are at an all time low for projects but i am dying to make some kind of progress on my truck. any suggestions? how bout you lagrasta?

 

[CobraSix]

You can freshen up an engine for the price of a cylinder bore honer, some Marvel, and gaskets.

When starting an engine for the first time (like we did last week on an engine that was sitting for 7 years, after I did a refresh like above), I squirt Marvel down every cylinder from the spark plug hole and down the lifter holes. I then turn the engine by a socket wrench to spread the marvel around. Then, before actually firing the engine, I just let the starter prime the engine for about 30 seconds to start oil flow.

Not saying it's the right way, but it's worked on the last 2 engines I've done on 2 cars.

 

[JOHN G]

A crack isn' the end of the world-had one in one of my cylinders 17 years ago and I had the cylinder sleeved. This is the engine I am still using today and that continues to be the best compression producing one to this date. Save that engine for later use! My engine had sat 8-9 years and I did the same with the oil-started and ran fine for a year and a half untill I tore it down for basically no good reason.

 

[CAMDEN289]

The marvel mystery oil trick should work great.I recently bought a 66 coupe that hadn't run since 1990.The engine was locked.... For the heck of it I loaded it up with marvel mystery oil and forgot about it.Easy to do with the amount of projects I have.It ended up freeing up the engine.I got the engine running,great oil pressure,compression seems fine.Little to no oil out of the exhaust amazing.You should be fine.Good luck.As for sleeving the old block it's a good idea,but then again I see cheap/free sixes all the time so why bother spending the money.

 

[Anonymous]

you can get a cylinder bore honer at autozone for free with their loaner tool program.

 

[rbohm]

8) i would not hone the cylinders unless you plan to thoroughly clean the cylinders. i would tear down though and inspect everything, and at least replace the rings and bearings. i would use moly rings, again without honing the cylinders. check your bearing clearances carefully as i found with my 289 i needed a set of .001 under bearings to get the right bearing clearances.

 

[Bort62]

If you just want to try to get it runnin again. Marvel it, let it sit for a few days - spin it around for a few times with a socket - spin it a while with the starter, and fire her up.

Should be fine.

If you can spare the 25$ for a headgasket, pop the head off and make sure the cylinders are clean.

 

[Lazy JW]

Having spent the majority of my life thus far in the "Insufficient Funds" category I have had ample opportunity to practice just this very procedure

Just because an engine has sat for a long time is no reason for despair. If it were mine I would:

#1. Pull all the spark plugs and squirt plenty (gobs) of Marvel oil in each cylinder. Too much is not enough!
#2. Loosely install plugs; wait at least a week
#3. After the waiting week, change the oil and filter
#4. Pull the spark plugs, turn the engine over BY HAND! If it won't go by hand, try rocking it backward, then forward, back and forth. Don't force it.
#5. When it turns over freely by hand at least several full revolutions, put the #1 cylinder on TDC of the compression stroke
#6. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill until it makes oil pressure, then spin it some more. Too much is not enough here either.
#7. Re-install the distributor and check for spark. Leave the spark plugs out and spin it with the starter. Check for fuel pumping too.
#8. Install the plugs and fire that baby up! Keep a fire extinguisher handy and don't let anyone call 911 unless it really catches fire cuz it's gonna smoke
Have fune,
Joe

 

[Bort62]

The marvel smoke smells good tho!

 

[69.5Mav]

Don't know about Marvle Mystery Oil but I would use penatraiting oil, PB blaster or Kroyl. Kroyl is supposed penatrait gaps as small as .000007". Let it sit and for sure change the old oil and filter. Even droping the pan acleaning it can be done on the cheap. If you drop the pan you can then check and lude the rod bearings.

Good Luck

 

[BaldvinE]

FWIW I've also seen ATF used the same way with good results

 

[Anonymous]

i appreciate all the replys. i thought after spinning engine i might replace the timing gear and oil pump.(easy and cheap) and the pilot bushing. does anybody know what exactly to ask for to fit the '60 fordomatic? i don't know what this motor came from. i thought then i'd run 500 miles or so (wishful thinking) on rotella before first change and go on from there. thanks again

 

[rbohm]

8) you dont need a pilot bushing with an automatic. in fact there is none. the torque converter has a register on it that fits where the pilot bushing goes. as for the rotella T, good choice.after you change it at 500 miles, change it again at 1500 miles, then observe your normal change intervals.

 

[Lazy JW]

...
#1. Pull all the spark plugs and squirt plenty (gobs) of Marvel oil in each cylinder. Too much is not enough!...

Perhaps I should change that to "The Snake Oil of your choice"

 

[Anonymous]

thanks again for the help. i thought i would run some wire brushes in the water jacket as much as possible. i am starting with a new rad. where can i find an in-line water filter such as a gano to help catch some of the rust scale i'm sure i'll loosen up? by the way lagrasta i saw your ride in hot rod this month looking good.

 

[Anonymous]

If the oil thing doesn't work, there are other methods to make it cooperate. Dad and I recently brought ome a Lavern Nance vintage modified. The 240 had been stuck for around twenty years. The previous owner tried atf, gasoline, mirale fluids, and carb cleaner. When we brought it home, we tried them too. Try to figure out which piston(s) are stuck. Remove the head. Put a block of wood and a bottle jack on top of the piston. Then you have to mess around and get a peice of chain on top of the jack. You can use a couple of head bolts to secure it to the block. This will work, however, if you are on the wrong piston, or more than one piston is stuck, stuff can bend. So, if you don't want to take the chance, pull the oil pan and unbolt the rod ends. This, of course, is a last resort.


Adam

 

[Anonymous]

thanks again for the help. i thought i would run some wire brushes in the water jacket as much as possible. i am starting with a new rad. where can i find an in-line water filter such as a gano to help catch some of the rust scale i'm sure i'll loosen up? by the way lagrasta i saw your ride in hot rod this month looking good.