All Big Six Ordered the Scorpion 1059 Roller Rockers

Relates to all big sixes

efloth

Well-known member
Does anyone wanna go in on 3x 8pc sets of Manley 10.25" 3/8" pushrods with me? It's only $93 for a set of 8 which is only $11.60ea, but to buy the other 4 I need, they're $17ea. Saves us both $20 or so. I should be able to order them as soon as my machinist gets back to me about the block. I'll ship the other half to you when I get the order.
Good Idea, I would have taken you up on that one! Depending on shipping costs to your location these guys might be better priced. I called them since they don't list the singles and they got my order in for 12 over the phone. They were a bit cheaper than summit even after paying for shipping.

 

Pontus

Well-known member
Supporter 2021
Good Idea, I would have taken you up on that one! Depending on shipping costs to your location these guys might be better priced. I called them since they don't list the singles and they got my order in for 12 over the phone. They were a bit cheaper than summit even after paying for shipping.

Damn! For that price, it costs the same to buy 2 whole sets as it costs to buy 1 set and 4 extras from summit. Thanks dude! (y)

Well, if anyone wants, it just got a lot cheaper. That's $117 for a full set of 12 if we go in on it. Otherwise, it's $160 to buy a full set plus 4 (or $140 if you buy the full set from efloth's link).

Edit: With free shipping from summit and $17 from CNC, it's about a wash for me alone, but if no one wants to go in on them with me, I'll just call them for 12 like you did.
 
Last edited:

efloth

Well-known member
Just thinking: Depending on the amount of machining work you are doing it may be a good idea to measure before buying these. The stock block, cam and head are all that we know are good with the 10.250 pushrod length.
 

Pontus

Well-known member
Supporter 2021
Just thinking: Depending on the amount of machining work you are doing it may be a good idea to measure before buying these. The stock block, cam and head are all that we know are good with the 10.250 pushrod length.
I had the same thought, and that's sorta why I said I'd have to wait for my machinist to get back to me. But I don't think there'll be any deck milling involved, but I'm mostly waiting in case the whole project goes belly up from either cost or a the block being scrap iron. So far though, I figure that if this is a stock replacement EFI head where I would normally be able to replace pushrods with stock, then all things being equal (and with hydraulic lifters) I should be safe without having to buy extra measuring tools if you've already done the work. So thank you!
 

Mbl23019

New member
She's all back together. Got the fuel all dialed in and it is definitely a noticable power increase. Smoother and better throttle response as well as much better pulling past 3k rpm. The new springs probably account for some of the higher rpm performance gain but overall a worth while and easy upgrade for the EFI 300.
Could you specify on "getting the fuel all dialed in"? Looking at going with these rockers myself.
 

philford

Well-known member
Thanks for the input guys,

If I compress the lifters Is there a spec for valve lash on the pedestal setup?

Is spacer something that is readily available or something I would need to fabricate? I have a 3d printer but not sure if ABS would hold up engine temps. Maybe nylon would work. Does anyone have a model already designed?
could your printer make the master for a home made alunimum casting ? using sandcasting or some other molding method like the wax replacement method?
 

efloth

Well-known member
Could you specify on "getting the fuel all dialed in"? Looking at going with these rockers myself.
Well that's a loaded question: Welcome to the world of Ford EEC tuning :)

If your are running a '96 MAF setup you probably would not need to change the tune as the computer can detect the additional airflow and add more fuel accordingly.

All earlier EFI setups run a speed density strategy (using a MAP sensor) that delivers fuel based on a predefined airflow model set in the computer from the factory. This is defined in the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) table and needs to be modified accordingly when you modify the engine in any meaningful way. If the computer expects a stock airflow model and you install higher ratio rockers, your air fuel ratios will be wrong causing driveability and possibly reliability issues: i.e engine failure.

Most guys/gals stop right here and buy an aftermarket EFI system or Carburator but living in California, neither are options for me.

Before I write an essay: A few questions.

1. What year/model is your Ford
2. What is your EEC box code? Usually found on a small while label near the driver's side upper door hinge or in the EEC itself. 3 or 4 characters
3. Are you willing to spend $250 on hardware (software needed is free) to give you a USB interface between a Windows 7+ laptop and your EEC? http://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-...8221-due-to-chip-shortage-p-199.html?cPath=95
4. Do you want to do this yourself with help from the community? If not you can pay $400 to become a premium member of efidynotuning.com and Michael (AKA Decipha) will remote tune your vehicle. Membership includes free lifetime updates for when you add a turbo :) more details here: https://fordsix.com/threads/stock-ecu-tuning.82060/

Let me know and we will go from there.
 

efloth

Well-known member
could your printer make the master for a home made alunimum casting ? using sandcasting or some other molding method like the wax replacement method?
I'm no expert I fabrication but I think the molten aluminum would melt any plastic that can be 3d printed. Either way If you want to make a design I could print it out and send it your way.
 

philford

Well-known member
I'm not an expert in casting either, but one general process is that you can make a mold from your plastic part with sandcasting you might make a two part mold with special sand and remove the original.

with the lost wax method you pour something like plaster or maybe clay or porcelain around the original, then burn it out leaving a cavity. wax is used for jewlery and gold crowns (teeth) some plastics may work. you loose the original. with things like boat props the master can be made from wood.

part of that is a sprew for the metal to enter. then as a next step heat alunimum to melt it and pour it in the mold. sometimes a centrifuge is used to minimize voids.

there may be variations like using heat proof putty like plasticene.

aluminum melts at lower temps so you might need a oxy acetylene torch. and a crucible. or a camp fire with a blower. but steel needs more extreme heat so that's not a home project. its done in a foundary.

the mold must not be wet or it can boil any water and sort of explode when molten metal enters.

you break the mold to get it out.

it's possible but you'd want to read up more on the details.
for a spacer it might be machined but a printer can make complex shapes and there is that ability to change the design by altering it digitally and sharing the file. that can lead itself to invention by process where it can be altered and perfected

CNC milling does it by removing material , but it also starts with a digital file.
 

Mbl23019

New member
Well that's a loaded question: Welcome to the world of Ford EEC tuning :)

If your are running a '96 MAF setup you probably would not need to change the tune as the computer can detect the additional airflow and add more fuel accordingly.

All earlier EFI setups run a speed density strategy (using a MAP sensor) that delivers fuel based on a predefined airflow model set in the computer from the factory. This is defined in the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) table and needs to be modified accordingly when you modify the engine in any meaningful way. If the computer expects a stock airflow model and you install higher ratio rockers, your air fuel ratios will be wrong causing driveability and possibly reliability issues: i.e engine failure.

Most guys/gals stop right here and buy an aftermarket EFI system or Carburator but living in California, neither are options for me.

Before I write an essay: A few questions.

1. What year/model is your Ford
2. What is your EEC box code? Usually found on a small while label near the driver's side upper door hinge or in the EEC itself. 3 or 4 characters
3. Are you willing to spend $250 on hardware (software needed is free) to give you a USB interface between a Windows 7+ laptop and your EEC? http://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-...8221-due-to-chip-shortage-p-199.html?cPath=95
4. Do you want to do this yourself with help from the community? If not you can pay $400 to become a premium member of efidynotuning.com and Michael (AKA Decipha) will remote tune your vehicle. Membership includes free lifetime updates for when you add a turbo :) more details here: https://fordsix.com/threads/stock-ecu-tuning.82060/

Let me know and we will go from there.
White sticker? 3B04 in small font and L2C1 on big font
 

efloth

Well-known member
White sticker? 3B04 in small font and L2C1 on big font
Nice, That's the same speed density hardware I am running so you could try running my J1X calibration if you have a manual trans or Decipha can work with your calibration if you want to go that route. Next step is getting a laptop and quarterhorse. Let me know.
 
Last edited:

Mbl23019

New member
Nice, That's the same speed density hardware I am running so you could try running my J1X calibration if you have a manual trans or Decipha can work with your calibration if you want to go that route. Next step is getting a laptop and quarterhorse. Let me know.
Sweet I also have a manual trans. Have you had to smog yours yet? Working on convincing the wife to approve my budgeting for that quarterhorse. Have a windows 8 laptop already so I'm good there. How is your truck running? Better power and mpg?
 
Last edited:

efloth

Well-known member
Sweet I also have a manual trans. Have you had to smog yours yet? Working on convincing the wife to approve my budgeting for that quarterhorse. Have a windows 8 laptop already so I'm good there. How is your truck running? Better power and mpg?
Haven't smogged it yet but it is due this October. I don't foresee any emissions issues as some have reported passing emissions without cats on E85.

The rocker, pushrod and spring upgrades provided a modest but noticeable torque increase across the board. The additional valve lift and fresh springs also extended the power band a few hundred RPM. The motor is also noticeably smoother and I can generally stay a gear higher than before. I've been pulling 3-4 tons up the 3mi 9% grade to my house no problem.

What year is your truck? Any other upgrades? Are you planning on running gas or e85? Stock injectors may be a limiting factor depending on your goals.

I haven't run on gas for over a year now. MPG is down only 10% highway-12.5% city on e85 but costs a buck less per gallon so cheaper to operate plus the 4.9 loves 105 octane.
 

Mbl23019

New member
Haven't smogged it yet but it is due this October. I don't foresee any emissions issues as some have reported passing emissions without cats on E85.

The rocker, pushrod and spring upgrades provided a modest but noticeable torque increase across the board. The additional valve lift and fresh springs also extended the power band a few hundred RPM. The motor is also noticeably smoother and I can generally stay a gear higher than before. I've been pulling 3-4 tons up the 3mi 9% grade to my house no problem.

What year is your truck? Any other upgrades? Are you planning on running gas or e85? Stock injectors may be a limiting factor depending on your goals.

I haven't run on gas for over a year now. MPG is down only 10% highway-12.5% city on e85 but costs a buck less per gallon so cheaper to operate plus the 4.9 loves 105 octane.
It's a 1993, no upgrades at all. Just bone stock sucking down 13.5 mpg and a weak power band. It picks up a bit at 1500 but between 2 and 3k is where it pulls the most. Did you have to mod for the e85 or will it run with it regardless? I'm on a tiiiiight budget so I'm really trying to figure out what I actually need vs the ideal setup. Did you refigure your fuel mapping before you did the upgrade or just after the fact?
 

bubba22349

Top Poster
Staff member
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2019
REDLINE 10K
It's a 1993, no upgrades at all. Just bone stock sucking down 13.5 mpg and a weak power band. It picks up a bit at 1500 but between 2 and 3k is where it pulls the most. Did you have to mod for the e85 or will it run with it regardless? I'm on a tiiiiight budget so I'm really trying to figure out what I actually need vs the ideal setup. Did you refigure your fuel mapping before you did the upgrade or just after the fact?
Did you say your in SoCal area? I think you might have few issues on your 1993 that need some work. On my 1994 F150 short bed 4.9, 5 speed & 3:08 axle all stock with calif emissions it would always be able to pass smog tests in the LA area. I got 15 to 18 MPG depending on how hard I pushed it, with a best of 22.5 MPG on a very long round trip from Temple City, Ca, to Kingman Az. Best of luck
 

Mbl23019

New member
Did you say your in SoCal area? I think you got a few issues on your 1993 thar need some work. On my 1994 F150 short bed 4.9, 5 speed & 3:08 axle all calif emissions it would always pass smog in the LA area. I got 15 to 18 MPG depending on how hard I pushed it, with a best of 22.3 MPG on a very long round trip from Temple City, Ca, to Kingman Az. Best of luck
Yeah I'm in San Diego. I pass smog no problems. I've got 3.55s in mine. That's part of my problem. I bought a 3.08 ring and pinion but I've got five kids so the amount of work that goes into that... It's a little more than I have the time for.
 

bubba22349

Top Poster
Staff member
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2019
REDLINE 10K
You could pick up a bit of power and a little fuel economy if you dont use the power all the time, and I don’t think the Scorpion 1.73 rocker arms will effect the smog check any either. Lol that is as long as those calif smog testers didn’t see them or you don’t tell them you have installed them.
 

efloth

Well-known member
Yeah the 3.55 rear end with stock tires is a recipe for poor economy. I put 31s on my 4x2 and that helped a bit. Still need a taller 5th to really make it cruise 75 at a reasonable rpm. it's ~2500rpm right now
 
Top