OVERHEATING 223

[Anonymous]

M '55 223 has been overheating since last fall. It runs up to 230-250degrees when cruising 55-60 on the freeway. Around town it stays at 205-210, unless i have to climb a hill or grade for any distance.
Since last fall I've had the radiator rodded and tanked, and changed the thermostat out to a 180 Degree stant.
Also I've installed a new head gasket.
Could this be a vacuum advance problem? It only rises when there's a load on the engine.

 

[addo]

Have you acided out the block? Could still have constrictions there.

Conjuring up an additional advance control (even if temporary) from the cab might say if you're running short there. But I think it's either leaning out near WOT or not getting enough circulation.

Transplant going well?

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Addo, It's running rich, I don't think lean WOT is the prob.
The transplant is fine, I've been working 6 days a week at a hospital addition down the road from my house as a concrete and welding inspector, but just got my OSHPD inspector's license (state of Ca. hospital Inspector of Record) and will be going into business for myself this summer.

 

[addo]

Running rich should cool the flame and lower temps slightly, unless it's combusting in the exhaust as well. Can you monitor manifold vacuum vs temperature under load?

Seriously, though, I would look at getting the head/block all chemically flushed either by the DIY approach or at a radiator shop.

Good news on the licensing, too.

 

[flatford6]

The vacuum advance diaphragm on Ford 223 engines commonly tears or gets holed and then there is no advance at all except the initial static timing. When the diaphragm gets a hole in it the vacuum from the carb can cause dust to be sucked into the dristributor. This can freeze up the breaker plate so that even if you change the diaphragm, there still may be no advance. Dust can also get into the piping and passages in the carb preventing any advance. If the picture beside your post is your engine with two carbs, the distributor advance if any, will see the vacuum signal as if the engine is running at half the load it really is. Best to try to find a centrifugal advance distributor with additional vacuum advance for economy. The full vacuum advance system was one of Fords really stupid ideas. Even when working as designed, the advance curve did not conform to the needs of the engine. Late timing causes over heating because the mixture is still burning as it goes out the exhaust valve and heats up the exhaust port excessively.

 

[Daves55Courier]

Just food for thought on the overheating story.
The 223 in my 55 Courier sat for many years with the water level in the block partially drained.
The block was dimantled and boiled in a hot tank prior to rebuilding.
After assembling was finished I noticed it didnt take much water to fill er up and she overheated immediately. I opened the drain cock at the left rear side of the block and nothing came out. Uggghhhh.
I pulled the t-stat gooseneck to let the water out of the head, then pulled the head (ruining a brand new head gasket). Water was standing in the block. I took a piece of rebar and shoved it down the large hole in the top of the cylinder block immediately above the drain cock and poked down in there with some force and felt a buildup of scale give way then SWOOOOsh the water started pouring out the drain cock. I proceded to rod out all the other holes and ran the garden hose down all the holes to make sure the block would fill and drain freely. Reassembled and the problem was solved.

 

[Daves55Courier]

Easiest way to check distributor vac advance for proper operation is to disconnect your vac line from the diaphragm and attach a MityVac with a short piece of hose (with the distributor cap off) and watch the breaker plate. If the plate rotates and stays in position while you hold the trigger on the MityVac, it is good. Release the trigger on the MityVac and the breaker plate should rotate back. If it doesnt, it is probably an indication that your primary or secondary return springs are faulty. Procedure for adjusting them is in the shop manual. I dont know if carbon buildup (from the coil tower socket on the cap) can cause the breaker plate to cease, but these caps do initially throw off a lot of carbon. Periodically remove the cap, blow out the distributor with compressed air and wipe the underside of the cap thoroughly with a clean fuzzy cloth. The carbon around the inside of the cap will cause misfiring if allowed to build up too long.