Parts are accumulating! The build is near!

[WhitePony]

Well, after 3 months of pondering, asking dumb questions, searching for parts, watching other people's solutions, more pondering, and a whole lot of ordering, the time for my engine build is finally dawing neigh. It's starting to look a bit daunting when I look at all the crap that is laying around the garage.

I'm taking my time and trying to make sure I have all the parts to do it right, but am starting to get preasure from my better half to "Get her ^&$#@ car done before it's too &@#^%#* cold to use the convertible". Here's what I have or am still ordering so far. I'd appreciate any input into things that I might have forgotten.

Engine

-1979 200 shortblock out of a Fairmont. Will be decked to zero, and bored .030. Connecting rods will be shot peened, and the rolling assembly balanced. Will use chrome moly rings. (Still haven't sent the shortblock out for rebuild. Waiting on ARP fasteners)
-FSSP (CSC) 264 112* cam
-FSSP (JP Products) dual roller timing set
-New professionally recurved DSII dizzy
-MSD 6AL (Decided to go for it and am looking for one on eBay)
-ARP Head studs, Main studs, and Rod bolts. Question: Mike's site says that the ARP rod bolt set has to be machined. Why? Are they too long?
-New oil pump
-D8 big log head, milled .060, 3 angle valve job, ported and pollished. New back cut SS valves, new springs and retainers.
-Clifford port divider
-Clifford Webber 2bbl adapter
-Holley-Webber 5200 carb
-Hi-Torque 'FE' model mini starter
-16" 3300CFM electric radiator fan

Drivetrain

-T5 model 13-52-208 out of a 92GT. Rebuilt approx 1000 miles ago. 3.35 1st gear and 0.68 OD.
-B&M ProRipper Short Throw Shifter
-3.03 bellhousing and fork
-T-5 Conversion Kit for 6 CYL from Mustang Depot

Exhaust:

Note: Don't have any of this yet, but this is what I'm buying
-FSSP Dual out headers with HotJet coating.
-X-Pipe
-Flowmaster 50 series mufflers
-1965 Mustang GT exhaust horns
I'll take all of the above to a local exhaust shop and have them mandrel bend the rest of the exhaust to fit.

Dress-up parts:

This stuff I have already
-Ball milled pollished aluminum oval air breather (Hotrod style)
-Chrome Valve cover
-Chrome 'T' handle valve cover fasteners
-Billit aluminum twist on oil cap
-Chrome T-Stat Housing
-Stainless alternator bracket
-Chrome 100amp alternator
-Complete stainless external engine bolt set
-Chrome oil filter cover
-All hoses will be braided metal
-Anything else shiny that my Magpie brain can find


OK Guys, what have I forgotten?

Kris

 

[Anonymous]

you'll probably have to do something with the driveshaft.

 

[WhitePony]

Yup, in the plan

 

[Anonymous]

ohh and this is very obvious, but don't forget to fill everything with the correct fluids.
i worked at a shop with a bunch of dumb a$$'s and a car came in for an oil change, but the car left with NO oil, shortly after that i quite

 

[Anonymous]

Have you accounted for a shift handle for the transmission? Maybe it is in the conversion kit.

Something I will mention on my T-5 conversion. I had one heck of a vibration coming through the body. Turns out that one metal corner of transmission mounting pad was rubbing the new T-5 crossmember bracket. I had to cut or grind off part of the mount pad so that normal engine vibration did not transmit to the body resonate the whole car.
Doug

 

[WhitePony]

I'm still looking for a T5 shifter. I want something atleast a step or two better than a stock shifter. Been following the ones for sale on eBay. I've already missed a couple good deals because I wasn't online at the close of auction, including a B&M ProRipper that ended up going for $76.

I'll have to pay attention to things that touch or rub. I don't want to be chasing phantom vibrations. I think that I finally tracked down a dealer who actually knows which end is up in reguards to T5 kits. I went with Darkhorse Performance, and their stuff was pretty reasonably priced. I'll still need to get a clutch plate, presure plate and probably a flywheel, but I still haven't figured out exactly what I need. The T5 I got is out of a 92 GT, so I need to get a pclutch plate with a bent 8 spline pattern.

I ordered most of my exhaust stuff today. I ended up changing my plan from an FSPP dual out to a Pacemeker dual out. Mike says that they have the absolute best fit for the early Mustangs. I'm getting ones that have been JetHot coated of course Mike had a good suggestion that I hadn't thought about. I was planning to just rip the old exhaust out at the same time that I installed the new engine/transmission. He recommended that I just bolt up the old exhaust while I dial the engine in. That way I don't have to worry about running too lean and burning the JetHot coating on the headers.

I ordered a pair of Flowmaster 50's, and I hope they have the right sound that I'm wanting. I'm still waffling about an X Pipe though. I probably would really like the sound, but looking at the pics of Doug's (Mustang Geezer) exhaust install, I like the open access to the transmission and driveshaft without the exhaust getting in the way. I also got my 65 Mustang GT exhaust trumpets in the mail today.

I'm getting a couple of used MSD 6AL's off eBay. Two, because I don't want to get caught by a bad unit, and not be able to finish the project. I'll probably turn around and sell one when I make sure both work and the engine is done.

My current problem is that the guy at the head shop just told me that my springs are too wimpy for any high revs. I now need to figure out what replacement springs to get that have a higher pressure. Mike sells some, but he has the following note about the performance springs:

Note: installation of single springs with dampners, or dual springs, requires machining to eliminate the cylinder head valve step which was intended to keep stock single springs in correct alignment. Machining is also required to install the teflon valve seals, and/or valve spring cups.

Have any of you found replacement springs that are both better than stock, and don't require any machining?

Kris

 

[80Stang]

Sure have new lifters?

Valve springs: Comp Cams work for me with beefier cam than yours. You might also follow other threads here where David has the NAPA numbers for certain vee-eight springs that will fit. Machining is required IF you use springs WITH dampners or dual springs. Single springs should do without machining.

Retainers & locks; get a set of 4.0V6 stuff. Check also that your pushrods and other valvetrain stuff are 100% ok. Very carefully examine the rocker arm shaft and rockers if you plan to use the old ones. The shaft has a machined flat surface on one side, that will show you very clearly if the rockers have worn into the shaft and it & rockers need replacing.

What are you going to do to your cooling system?

What coil & wires are you planning to use?

 

[addo]

It's about the only place I disagree with WSA III but the single, uprated valve springs from Crow are pretty good. William advocates damped springs where I just see that as parasitic loss in our typical operating RPM range.

Anyhow, you need to get cracking to avoid disharmony in the nest. Remember that home stretch is way longer than you think.

 

[WhitePony]

Teppo, Basically, everything in the engine is going to be new. I'll be using the chrome molly push rods, and an adjustable rocker set from Mike. Have a new set of lifters as well. The coil is an MSD Blaster 2, and I'll be getting a good quality set of either 8 or 8.5mm wires. The nice thing about running the DSII is that I can run the HEI wires. as far as the cooling system, I'm replacing all the hoses, and had not addressed the radiator or heater core yet. Probably when I get to the reassembly stage I'll go ahead and replace them both. I have a 3300CFM electric fan that I'm planning on mounting in front of the radiator to give more room in the engine compartment.

About the only thing that's going to be used from the old engine is the oil pan and oil pickup tube.

Guys, thanks for the advice on springs. I was worried that the head was going to have to go back for more machining. I'll just use some uprated single springs without dampeners.

Anyhow, you need to get cracking to avoid disharmony in the nest. Remember that home stretch is way longer than you think.

I hear ya brother. It's gotten to the point where I get dirty looks every time she walks into the garage and looks at the vert and the pile of parts sitting on the other side.

Unfortunately, more important stuff is happening right now. Here in the US, this weekend is Memorial Day weekend. It's the big party weekend that starts off the summer. So, all other projects are being dropped while I get the boat ready and check out all the camping gear. And the most important thing: making about 300 Jello shots for the Saturday night party at the campground! I mean, you HAVE to have priorities after all!

Kris

 

[80Stang]

Great! No compromises.

Forgot to mention that 289/302 ARP rod bolts needed no mods on the bolts nor rods, went right into a D8 200 block.

 

[wsa111]

Kris, you might want to grind about .125 from the arp head bolt stud that goes into the water pump impeller area on the right front of the block. Mine hit the impeller of the water pump.
Since you will use a stick shift I would have chosen the lobe center of the camshaft 110 or even 108 degrees. The 112 lobe center is what I have & it idles good even in drive. If you prefer the smooth idle you will love it

Adam the only reason I prefer valve springs with dampers inside the valve spring is to prevent spring harmonics at higher rpms. If your driving is just easy street the non damper springs will work fine.

Seems like a lot of members are shy about machining the valve spring seats when they are doing other head work. Valve springs are the most under looked item during engine modifications, but are the most important. William

 

[WhitePony]

Thanks William, I'll do that.

By the way, that brings up another point. I remember reading in the Falcon Performance Handbook that the #11 head bolt has oil flowing around it from the block to the head. With the ARP head stud set, will I have to modify that stud to provide a path for the oil? I'd hate to starve the head oiling system and trash all the work that I'm putting into it.

Kris

 

[WhitePony]

WOOOHOOO!!!! I got my care package from FSPP today, and the shortblock is off to the reman shop. Man I gotta say, the JetHot coated Pacemaker headers look AWESOME!

I also got the T5 conversion kit from Darkhorse Performance. Now I can start fitting the the transmission pieces together.

As the garage fills up with these new toys I'm getting more and more excited. Can't wait to actually start assembling the engine.

Kris

 

[Anonymous]

Kris,
A lot of folks always wonder how much xyz costs in a rebuild.
Since you are basically going through and doing a very comprehensive build, could you share the costs with others.
If you got a friendly discount, note the original price as well as actual.
Kinda like MSRP and the online price we're all used to.
I've seen others replace transmissions and give costs.
I've seen head rebuilding and costs etc etc.
But you have one of the latest and most comphrehensive rebuilds I've seen.
The real life costs would be extremely valuable I'd think to someone trying to determine if, how or when to perform various 'projects' and especially a complete refurb.
It may appear daunting to some but reality is good sometimes.
I think you have taken a very realistic approach to your build.
Thanks in advance.
DaveP

 

[WhitePony]

I'll post a list of prices and a comprehensive list of parts as soon as all the major components are purchased. All I have to say is this had better be the best running 6cyl Mustang on the planet or I'll never hear the end of it. I have already blown past the $4K point on parts and reman fees, and still have a clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combo to lacate. Plus the exhaust install, driveshaft modifications to do, all hoses to buy, etc.....

I'm going at this build basically replacing everything. I know in certain areas I could reuse items, but I want to get this right the first time. I'm sure that I could have bought another car for what I've spent already, but to quote one of my favorite authors: Moderation is for Monks. Take big bites out of life.

I just gotta get the car ready for the wife to drive soon, or I'll be sleeping in it!

Kris

 

[Anonymous]

Kris,
I think that would be outstanding.
Should you decide not to put the information out on the forum, would you please send me a list so I can put into an EXCEL spreadsheet for my own use.
You seem to be doing a very comprehensive and complete rebuild or restoration and I think it would be an outstanding basis for folks, just so they know what to expect in costs.
Thanks for the answer and hope to see your completed-
car especially since we don't want you to have to occupy it as a habitat!
and the cost analysis figures.
Thanks.
DaveP kywoodwrkr
PS Any dead ends you discovered would be an asset to others as well.
D.

 

[WhitePony]

I fitted the port divider tonight. Four and a half hours of grind, file, fit, grind, file, fit.............. Fits good though, now I just need to buy a tube of that Contronics stuff. I'm hoping that the block will be back by friday so I can begin the assembly.

Thanks to Big Al I located a resurfaced flywheel, my list of needed parts is starting to get smaller (and the piles of boxes bigger).

 

[Anonymous]

it took you 4.5 hours!?!? it only took me 30 minutes and i only used a file, and it's a nice tight fit!

 

[WhitePony]

Mine was WAY too big to start. I wanted to sneak up on the fit, and not take too much off any part of it. I used a file for everything but the grooves. Used a die grinder to take material out of them. Maybe I got a bad cast, because my port divider was atleast 1/8" too big in every direction to even fit in the hole.

 

[WhitePony]

Well, got the block back from the builder yesterday. Now the fun begins. It came out looking nice. The deck is zeroed now, and I had chrome molly rings installed, along with Clevite77 bearings, ARP fasteners, dual roller timing set and a Clay Smith 264 cam.

Love that dual roller timing set from FSPP!

The ARP main studs and rod bolts should really strengthen the lower assembly.

Now the old engine...... That's another story......

I'm still missing some pieces to the puzzle, like the flywheel and clutch kit, but they're on the way. But, at least now I can start painting and assembling. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress.

Kris