Performance Mods for a 170?

[1961falconrat]

Hello! I am really wanting to get some extra power out of my 170. It is completely stock other than a few parts being newer such as the exhaust manifold being from '68 and other things. I just put a Weber Redline 32/36 DGAV 33-B-1 Carb on today. It made one heck of a difference!!. I just want to know what the best route to take on getting dome extra performance out of would be. Im thinking a header, the siamese exhaust port divider from clifford and maybe a 200 head with the detachable intake. Im just not to sure what would be the best things to do. I've never built a 6 for performance but the straight 6 bug has bitten me! so any advice on what would be good and what to do to pull some ponys out of the engine would be awesome! Oh and i have a C4 tranny in it.

 

[rbohm]

8) first off you wont find a 200 head with a detachable intake as they dont exist. ford did build heads with removable intakes in argentina and australia for the 250 though, but they are hard to find any more, and when you do they will likely need to be shipped from those countries.

as for using the port divider, i wouldnt unless you are starting with a head that needs rebuilding and you are going to open up the exhaust ports.

for the rest, its the same as building a 200 or 250, but remember to be a bit more conservative with the parts you select due to the smaller displacement. for instance you can use the same cam you would use in a 200, just go with a slightly wide lobe separation angle for a smoother idle.

check out the parts available at www.classicinlines.com. mike has better customer service than clifford does these days.

 

[CoupeBoy]

If your Falcon is a '61 and it still has the stock distributor. Your very next upgrade should be to a new distributor. The '61 distributor was a Load-O-Matic designed only to work correctly with a factory style carburetor that has a Spark Control Valve. Your new Weber does not have a SCV. You will need a '68 or newer dual advance (points) or a DuraSpark (1 or 2) or one of Mikes DUI distributors.

 

[First Fox]

While you are doing homework and gathering parts, it should be noted that you will not be able to use any of the hydraulic cams made for this engine series in your early 170. You will have to retain a solid cam design and although Mike offers one or two solid grinds, they will likely be too big for your application. Might have to get something custom ground.

Just food for thought. Good luck to you though!

 

[Gene Fiore]

While you are doing homework and gathering parts, it should be noted that you will not be able to use any of the hydraulic cams made for this engine series in your early 170. You will have to retain a solid cam design and although Mike offers one or two solid grinds, they will likely be too big for your application. Might have to get something custom ground.

Just food for thought. Good luck to you though!

Why is that?

 

[First Fox]

The early solid lifter (pre '64 ish me thinks) blocks don't have provisions for hydraulic lifter oiling.

 

[Gene Fiore]

The early solid lifter (pre '64 ish me thinks) blocks don't have provisions for hydraulic lifter oiling.

Okay then...that would be a bad thing. Did not know that.

 

[rbohm]

While you are doing homework and gathering parts, it should be noted that you will not be able to use any of the hydraulic cams made for this engine series in your early 170. You will have to retain a solid cam design and although Mike offers one or two solid grinds, they will likely be too big for your application. Might have to get something custom ground.

Just food for thought. Good luck to you though!

good idea to change to a non load o matic distributor, but understand that the pre 64 engines used a distributor with a smaller shaft than the later ones did, i know this because my 64(very early production) has the smaller shaft. thus you will need to open up the guide hole in the block to fit the later shaft, and you will need to convert to a 5/16 drive shaft and oil pump.

 

[First Fox]

[

good idea to change to a non load o matic distributor, but understand that the pre 64 engines used a distributor with a smaller shaft than the later ones did, i know this because my 64(very early production) has the smaller shaft. thus you will need to open up the guide hole in the block to fit the later shaft, and you will need to convert to a 5/16 drive shaft and oil pump.

If I'm not mistaken, it is the actual distributor body boss that needs enlarging, or am I mistaken? I thought it was a bigger deal to make the swap.

I have the LOM in my Falcoon and I was going to do the DS2 swap on it but in addition to the oil pump swap, I thought it entailed engine removal and chucking the bare block on a bridgeport and that just aint gonna happen. I put a Petronics conversion on it and that thing runs like a watch. 8)

 

[powerband]

... in a '63 I run a low-miles stock-block C8DE 170 from a '71 Maverick with fresh timing set, C7DE head with most of the recommended performance mods and targeted CR of @ 9.5:1 . The tight 170 in a light weight early roundbody and smooth Overdrive T5 with stock 3.50:1 rear gears works' for me. A thirsty 250 Tri-Power is better for all-out performance but the 170 is five years of fun driving, so far ... .

. . . .

'63 Wagon /miles per’formance six:

OEM C8DE Ford 170, Precision Machine worked D7 Head . Oversize intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR= 9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Points' distributor, Champion racing spark plugs, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50: rear, Shelby sway bar, , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual line rear air shocks, 14” wheels & tires, Countersprung Tailgate, Original tube radio …


have fun

AFAIH: only earliest (60/61?) 144/170 solid lifter blocks are non-hydraulic cams.

 

[rbohm]

[

good idea to change to a non load o matic distributor, but understand that the pre 64 engines used a distributor with a smaller shaft than the later ones did, i know this because my 64(very early production) has the smaller shaft. thus you will need to open up the guide hole in the block to fit the later shaft, and you will need to convert to a 5/16 drive shaft and oil pump.

If I'm not mistaken, it is the actual distributor body boss that needs enlarging, or am I mistaken? I thought it was a bigger deal to make the swap.

I have the LOM in my Falcoon and I was going to do the DS2 swap on it but in addition to the oil pump swap, I thought it entailed engine removal and chucking the bare block on a bridgeport and that just aint gonna happen. I put a Petronics conversion on it and that thing runs like a watch. 8)

if you look down the opening where the distributor goes, you will see a small hole down in the block. that is the hole that needs to be opened up a bit. you dont need to pull the engine to open it up if you have the room. just chuck the right size drill bit in your drill, lube up the bit with some white grease to lubericate the drill bit and collect any metal chips that are generated, and carefully open up the hole to fit the later model distributor.

 

[Soldmy66]

As an alternative to building your 170, have you given any consideration to building a 200 (and keeping the 170 stock)? Instantly, you would have an approx 18% increase in displacement.

 

[69.5Mav]

I just want to know what the best route to take on getting dome extra performance out of would be.

What are you trying to get out of it, Daily driver, cool cruzer, full drag racer, ect?

What is the engine code? This will tell what kind of 170 you have. Do you know the history of this car? Some one may have changed the engine in the past 52 years.

If you decide to change the engine to get a better block (hydrolic lifters) consider going to a 200. I like the 170 myself but I have a more modern one, it's a sweet little motor with almost 200K (191K) on it and still running strong.

I just put a Weber Redline 32/36 DGAV 33-B-1 Carb on today.

How did you put the 32/36 on it, addapter or dirrect mount? The dirrect mount has about another 25 HP gain on a 200, should be proportional for a 170 maybe 20 HP.

What type of distributor do you have on it? If it has vacumm advance then it would make me wonder what motor is in it.


All in all you made a good start. Get it breathing and it will perform well. On the cheap with no internal engine work you can use the 32/36 and high ratio rockers 1.6 or 1.65, this is a poor mans cam upgrade, and a free flowing exhaust.

For a higher performance upgrade you can
1. Dirrect mount the carb.
2. Get a three angle valve job with some pocket porting and larger valve. These should be done on a later model head.
3. Shave the head to get a compression ratio of 9.5-1.
4. install the headers and free flowing exhaust.
5. If you rebuild the bottom end then get the crank leading edges knife edged, this should be worth 5 HP.

 

[69.5Mav]

Any Progress

 

[64falconsix]

have to agree on the 200 swap but before you give up look at the casting number on the block on the back passenger side. this car is over 50 years old it is possible the engine could have been changed at some time in its life, it could have a later 170 with hydrualic cam or even a 200. post the casting number and one of us can decipher it for you. I bought a 64 the owner said had a rebuilt 170 in , turned out to be a 61 144. also would be a good idea to purchase the ford six performance hand book sold on the classic inlines site. a lot of good info for both beginners and expirienced inliners.