Please recommend the right valve spring compressor to buy for a 1967 200 six. Want to check valve guide for excess play

[reweb67]

1967 mustang with stock 200 six. Engine has only 25,000 miles on it since being rebuilt by a local speed shop that is now out of business of course.

Oil is being dumped into 2 of my cylinders. #1 and #3. Plugs foul out in those cylinders in only about 5 miles of driving. If I remove the plugs and shine a flashlight in there I can see the cylinder walls are wet with what must be oil. The others cylinders look dry and do not foul out the plugs.

I don't see any signs of of it being a head gasket. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil also amazingly the car does not smoke at all as far as I can tell.

Was hoping it was stuck oil rings and just did the Marvel Mystery oil soak where you pour MMO into each cylinder and let it soak for a couple days to free the oil rings up. All of the MMO drained past the rings and the car did not smoke at all after that either. I added 1.5 ounces to each cylinder twice, let it sit and rotated engine by hand a few times. Spent a total of 48 hours doing that whole thing. Did not help at all and brand new plugs fouled out again in those cylinders the same way.

I have previously removed the valve cover (first thing I did when this all started) and verified the valve seals look good. Now I'm thinking it may be bad valve guides. I plan to remove the valve spring on #3 and wiggle the valve stem to see if there is any play in the valve guide and go from there. Actually hoping I find something screwed up so I can get the car fixed! Don't want to pull the head and have it worked on just to later find out it is broken oil rings.

Guess I took the long way around to ask my original my question.

What valve spring compressor should I buy that will work properly on my six? Thanks!

 

[bubba22349]

This is the type valve spring compressor I have used many times with head still installed. Good luck

:rolflmao: Sorry that's just a case of brain fade I guess, my valve spring compressor is made by KD and it looks kind of like this one in the below link which is probably a copy of it. Yes you can use shop air, each cylinder you want to work on needs to have the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Or you can also go totally old school and use some clothes line rope pushed into the cylinder this works great too, its quite easy to do this job with the head on. Edited

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Engi ... 2692565672

 

[64-5mustang]

Unfortunately there is no easy way to remove a spring with out pulling the head. But You can make sure that the valves are closed on the cylinder supply air pressure with a cylinder bleed down, compression tool ( can also be used to test for air leaking past valves of piston rings) and shop air 50 psi, you will have to make a special tools to compress the spring on the head ( gm ls motors have the tool available to them might work hear ). But be careful as to not knock the valve in to the cylinder if you do head comes off. This really is a job best to remove the head for. If you do remove the head and spring compreser will adjust to the head ( also a large 8" c clamp with a notch cut in the end works great too ) I wish you luck on finding out your issue. and good valve seals should stop oil leaking past bad valve guides.

 

[drag-200stang]

This is the type valve spring compressor I have used many times with head still installed. Good luck

bubba, you can do that with one thumb.?....

 

[chero1369]

If you don't mind a long winded reply,I'll help you out.
Lowes carries KD Tools compressor #2078 which means you wont have to pull the head,pull the plug find TDC on that piston.
then,go a little past that,feed some cotton rope into the cylinder.bring it back to TDC.this puts pressure on the valve and wont let it drop.
now on this style of compressor,I have had to put a small c-clamp on the arms of the compressor to keep it on the spring.
and before removing the retainer,make sure the rope is putting pressure on the valve.once the spring and all are off,roll the piston down a little bit and check for slop.
Hope this helps,was shown to me in ancient days.or daze,I get so confused anymore...

 

[reweb67]

Thanks for the replies.

Bubba I do not see a link to the valve spring compressor? Could you post that again?

I have read up on this and it seems pretty easy to change valve seals / check guides for play with the head on this engine. You are right about using compressed air to hold the valve up etc.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders are at 180 to 190. I don't think a leak down test would tell me anything would it?

I don't have a leak with those solid compression numbers? Isn't a leak down test used for finding out where a leak is (valve, rings, head gasket) if you have low compression in a cylinder? Thanks again!

 

[reweb67]

Thanks Chero! Very helpful. Will look into using the rope. Sounds better than the compressed air route.

 

[drag-200stang]

If you don't mind a long winded reply,I'll help you out.
Lowes carries KD Tools compressor #2078 which means you wont have to pull the head,pull the plug find TDC on that piston.
then,go a little past that,feed some cotton rope into the cylinder.bring it back to TDC.this puts pressure on the valve and wont let it drop.
now on this style of compressor,I have had to put a small c-clamp on the arms of the compressor to keep it on the spring.
and before removing the retainer,make sure the rope is putting pressure on the valve.once the spring and all are off,roll the piston down a little bit and check for slop.
Hope this helps,was shown to me in ancient days.or daze,I get so confused anymore...

That is the same one I use,but I use an air compressor with a spark plug fitting..Be careful the engine can spin down to bottom dead center fast once...
Had a 340 with a hyd. cam , changed springs and seals whenever I needed a little extra.. Got pretty good at it..

 

[bubba22349]

This is the type valve spring compressor I have used many times with head still installed. Good luck

bubba, you can do that with one thumb.?....

:rolflmao: drag-200stang LOL yep!

Thanks for the replies.

Bubba I do not see a link to the valve spring compressor? Could you post that again?

I have read up on this and it seems pretty easy to change valve seals / check guides for play with the head on this engine. You are right about using compressed air to hold the valve up etc.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders are at 180 to 190. I don't think a leak down test would tell me anything would it?

I don't have a leak with those solid compression numbers? Isn't a leak down test used for finding out where a leak is (valve, rings, head gasket) if you have low compression in a cylinder? Thanks again!

opsie: I guess just wasn't with it when I posted last night without the link sorry. I edited my above post for clarity. Good luck

 

[reweb67]

Thanks I have ordered the KD Tools compressor #2078. Also ordered the little magnet stick thing to pick up the keepers.

Couple more questions if you don't mind.

If I use the rope trick do I need to find TDC on the compression stroke or does it not matter with the rope? I can not get a wrench on the big bolt to turn the engine by hand because I have a fat radiator and there just is not enough room in there. So I can not do the finger over the plug hole thing to tell when on the compression stroke. I can turn the engine easily by hand backwards by moving fan. Can I turn it backwards and look at the valves to see when a particular cylinder is at TDC? Not sure what I am looking for.

If I decide to do the compressed air route I need to get some type of adapter to go from spark plug hole to air compressor hose fitting. I looked at the little hose on my compression tester which would work but it has that little valve in there that does not look to be removable. Can anyone recommend a way to make that connection? Thinking air may be the way to go so I can see if any air leaks out while I am at it?

 

[bubba22349]

Thanks I have ordered the KD Tools compressor #2078. Also ordered the little magnet stick thing to pick up the keepers.

Couple more questions if you don't mind.

If I use the rope trick do I need to find TDC on the compression stroke or does it not matter with the rope?

1. Yes it really works the best when it's at TDC.

I can not get a wrench on the big bolt to turn the engine by hand because I have a fat radiator and there just is not enough room in there. So I can not do the finger over the plug hole thing to tell when on the compression stroke. I can turn the engine easily by hand backwards by moving fan. Can I turn it backwards and look at the valves to see when a particular cylinder is at TDC? Not sure what I am looking for.

2. Yes you can turn it backwards using the fan, but it's usally easier to keep track by turning it forward. With all the spark plugs pulled out that should help too. If that doesn't work so good try pushing down on the V belt some while you turning the fan.

3. You will be able to tell its on the Compression stroke when both the intake and exhaust valve are up togeather i.e. the valve springs arent compressed.

4. TDC is marked on your Dampner for cylinder # 1 by marking the Distribitor body with a chock mark for each spark plug wire you can know very close using the Distribitors rotor were TDC is for each cylinder.

If I decide to do the compressed air route I need to get some type of adapter to go from spark plug hole to air compressor hose fitting. I looked at the little hose on my compression tester which would work but it has that little valve in there that does not look to be removable. Can anyone recommend a way to make that connection?

5. Here is one type and KD also makes them too. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lisle-VALVE- ... 3=&veh=sem
Thinking air may be the way to go so I can see if any air leaks out while I am at it?

Good luck

 

[drag-200stang]

I was struggling with the compression and valves being in the wrong place, but then in this operation it does not matter...When the rocker shaft is removed all valves will be closed, and any piston going up will be on the compression stroke ..You should be able to see the piston in the spark plug hole. .Some times the keepers are stuck, a hit on top of the spring compressor can loosen them . If it that does not work a hit with a socket on the smaller part of the two piece retainer can help.This is trick is safe with air but I worry that hitting down on the rope could maybe bend the valve.
Cover any opening in case one gets away from you.

 

[reweb67]

Thanks all. Great information! Hopefully I can figure out what is wrong with the car and get back to driving it.