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Anonymous
Guest
Are port dividers really needed on a good set of headers? I am looking into buying the headers off of mustangs unlimited for my 200. If the port divider is a good thing how would i install them? Nasty N8
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
IMO, the quality of the header is not the issue and the port divider should be installed to balance out those middle two ports so they are the same size as the rest of them. There are several ways to install the port divider and if you do a search on this site you may find discussions about it. The easiest way is to just do an "interference" fit, which means fit it into the port ( may require some grinding ) so that it is about flush with the exterior surface of the head. Then the gasket and header will hold it in place. It should fit very tight in the port so that it doesn't rattle. Other guys have had theirs welded in place.
I decided to pass on the port divider when installing my headers. My reason was that I plan on ordering one of Mike's new heads where they are not needed and the trouble some have reported with rattling. Many of those that became loose tried the high temp epoxy route and some just went with an interference fit. The folks that welded the divider seem to be happy. Of those that ended up with a loose divider and removed it, they don't seem to notice a reduction in power. I can tell you that my car runs great without it and sounds fantastic.
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Anonymous
Guest
Also will the headers from the six shop need a port divider the one is: Product ID: FSP-200-DOH
FSPP Dual Outlet Header
FSPP Dual Outlet Header
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Anonymous
Guest
They do help to keep some excessive heat off of the bottom of the intake manifold
Howdy All:
The port divider, when properly shaped and installed, does make a difference in a properly tuned engine and exhaust system at engine speeds above 3,000 rpms. It is best to tack weld it in the three spots indicated on the directions sheet. It is best to fit it tight and with the interference fit, as previoulsly mentioned.
In a lo-po street engine its presence will not be noticeable. If you are spending $300 plus dollars for a header system it seems logical to me that you would want even that last 2% of improved performance. If your engine is tuned for Max performance a port divider makes sense. If you have spent time porting and tuning your heads flow, equalizing the exhaust pulses make sense to me. That is what the header does, so why not add the divider.
If you're looking for a short cut, and don't want to remove the head to properly install the divider, go ahead. If you're installing a header for the "Coolness" factor, don't worry about the port divider. If you're looking for the last ounce of performance from your engine- don't go anywhere without it.
That's my two cents, for what it's worth.
Adios, David
The port divider, when properly shaped and installed, does make a difference in a properly tuned engine and exhaust system at engine speeds above 3,000 rpms. It is best to tack weld it in the three spots indicated on the directions sheet. It is best to fit it tight and with the interference fit, as previoulsly mentioned.
In a lo-po street engine its presence will not be noticeable. If you are spending $300 plus dollars for a header system it seems logical to me that you would want even that last 2% of improved performance. If your engine is tuned for Max performance a port divider makes sense. If you have spent time porting and tuning your heads flow, equalizing the exhaust pulses make sense to me. That is what the header does, so why not add the divider.
If you're looking for a short cut, and don't want to remove the head to properly install the divider, go ahead. If you're installing a header for the "Coolness" factor, don't worry about the port divider. If you're looking for the last ounce of performance from your engine- don't go anywhere without it.
That's my two cents, for what it's worth.
Adios, David
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
Well said!
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Anonymous
Guest
Last year I bought the Pacemaker headers for my 200 along with the Clifford port divider. When I first bought them I had a local custom ford shop install the header by the sandwich method, but it came loose within a couple of miles. Next, I had the divider welded in. And two weeks later it popped out. The same welder refused to weld it again because he said the spots to weld the joints were just too weak and he didn't want to be responsible for warping the block. The next guy I spoke to also refused. The third guy welded it and it stayed there for a year, until a few weeks ago when it finally came out again. Nothing gets on your nerves like a dancing metal piece inside your exhaust.
All of this cost me a lot of money. A LOT of money for a poorly manufactured lump of metal and installations. Before I bought the divider I read the forums and websites and gathered opinions. And I did it. I believed all the hype about the alleged great benefit of the divider. When it came out this time I didn't want to spend any more money so I took off the headers myself and pulled the damn thing out. I put in yet another gasket and new bolts.
Guess what? It makes no difference at all. No difference in sound or smoothness at any speed, and there is absolutely no inhibition in the performance. My 200 has a DUI dizzy, Holley 5200 DGAV carb, and a C4 transmission. People seem to talk a lot about 2% differences, but I argue that its all psychological. I don't see much in terms of dyno or track tests where the only difference was the port divider.
My advice: Don't waste your money or your time.
All of this cost me a lot of money. A LOT of money for a poorly manufactured lump of metal and installations. Before I bought the divider I read the forums and websites and gathered opinions. And I did it. I believed all the hype about the alleged great benefit of the divider. When it came out this time I didn't want to spend any more money so I took off the headers myself and pulled the damn thing out. I put in yet another gasket and new bolts.
Guess what? It makes no difference at all. No difference in sound or smoothness at any speed, and there is absolutely no inhibition in the performance. My 200 has a DUI dizzy, Holley 5200 DGAV carb, and a C4 transmission. People seem to talk a lot about 2% differences, but I argue that its all psychological. I don't see much in terms of dyno or track tests where the only difference was the port divider.
My advice: Don't waste your money or your time.
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Anonymous
Guest
TheDude":3pkh0mmf said:
I think we need to start a community batch....use what you need and sell the rest to someone else!
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Anonymous
Guest
I run them myself being that I want that last 2% of performance! 
I mig weld them in myself. My current one has lasted over 5 years and has never came loose. My advice to anyone is to find someone who can actually run a mig welder!
Later,
Doug
I mig weld them in myself. My current one has lasted over 5 years and has never came loose. My advice to anyone is to find someone who can actually run a mig welder!
Later,
Doug
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Anonymous
Guest
I used Cotronics and sold someone here on the forum the rest of the tube...now who was that???
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks for aqll the advice. You cant ask these questions at a NAPA or parts store. I decided to avoid the port divider andi purchased some Mustangs Unlimited 6 headers I Pray that they fit 
You guys are true friends.
I decided to avoid the port divider andi purchased some Mustangs Unlimited 6 headers I Pray that they fit You guys are true friends. I have a question: Where does one get the gasket for the center ports with the port divider installed? The gasket sets I bought from Mike has the gasket for the siamese port. It would be a waste to get the port divider and not use a gasket to properly seal it to the header.
Or did I miss the obvious?
Dean T
Or did I miss the obvious?
Dean T
Howdy back All:
Your choice Nate. Like spankmeister says, "You may never know the difference".
Spankmeister- When I spoke of an "interference" fit, i meant hand-fitted with a hand file and rotary grinder to the tune of about 2 hours of work. It fit so tight that once in place, it was difficult to remove. Once fitted to the port and welded in place, the part protruding from the port was ground off with a slight swell or bow ourward. When the header was attached it compressed against the swell. Even if the welds broke loose, it could not rattle. It's been in there for going on 6 years now with no sign of problem.
Also please not that I referred to "a properly tuned engine" and to "Higher rpms".
I also am not aware of Dyno proof, but that would be a tough one. Some one would have to put on a header, run the dyno, disassemble the head to only install a properly fitted port divider, reassemble and run another dyno test. To prove what? That with a stock head and cam the difference is slight if any. Probably the same would be true for changing only the cam or even for the header.
I have given myself proof that the port divider matters on a flow bench. While flow bench numbers do not directly relate to HP. The numbers were there.
The whole story is that while we were getting a base line on my modified D8 head, we noted a big difference in flow from 1, 2, 5, & 6 to 3 & 4. We mocked up a port divider with some modeling clay to seperate an mimic the other ports and were able to bring the flow up to equal the other ports. That was with 1.46" exhaust valves in an otherwise stock port with a three angle valve job with the valve set at .400" lift.
Your head and specs may be different from mine and you may not get the same results.
From my point of view, when paying $300 plus for headers, the time and effort to properly fit and install a $20 port divider, to equalize flow and to optimize the potential of the header, is time and money well spent.
Again, that's my two cents, for what it is worth.
Adios, David
Your choice Nate. Like spankmeister says, "You may never know the difference".
Spankmeister- When I spoke of an "interference" fit, i meant hand-fitted with a hand file and rotary grinder to the tune of about 2 hours of work. It fit so tight that once in place, it was difficult to remove. Once fitted to the port and welded in place, the part protruding from the port was ground off with a slight swell or bow ourward. When the header was attached it compressed against the swell. Even if the welds broke loose, it could not rattle. It's been in there for going on 6 years now with no sign of problem.
Also please not that I referred to "a properly tuned engine" and to "Higher rpms".
I also am not aware of Dyno proof, but that would be a tough one. Some one would have to put on a header, run the dyno, disassemble the head to only install a properly fitted port divider, reassemble and run another dyno test. To prove what? That with a stock head and cam the difference is slight if any. Probably the same would be true for changing only the cam or even for the header.
I have given myself proof that the port divider matters on a flow bench. While flow bench numbers do not directly relate to HP. The numbers were there.
The whole story is that while we were getting a base line on my modified D8 head, we noted a big difference in flow from 1, 2, 5, & 6 to 3 & 4. We mocked up a port divider with some modeling clay to seperate an mimic the other ports and were able to bring the flow up to equal the other ports. That was with 1.46" exhaust valves in an otherwise stock port with a three angle valve job with the valve set at .400" lift.
Your head and specs may be different from mine and you may not get the same results.
From my point of view, when paying $300 plus for headers, the time and effort to properly fit and install a $20 port divider, to equalize flow and to optimize the potential of the header, is time and money well spent.
Again, that's my two cents, for what it is worth.
Adios, David
David, if you did flow bench tests the proof is in the numbers.
If you have a matched combination of carburetion, camshaft, compression & exhaust you will reap the benifits of the increased flow in the two center exhaust ports.
If you have a weak link in your combination then the divider will probably be of no benifit at all.
Go with the flow, at least the potential is there, so why not use it.
I agree with David.
My divider is welded in & I have had no problems at all.
Just waiting on Mike at classic inlines to finish the new cylinder head, then you don't have to worry about this center port divider.
Like Linc stated, at least it keeps some of the exhaust heat away from the log, which in turn is more power in a warm or summer climate.
Dean, the correct header gaskets which have the center port divider are as follows: the correct number to order from summit is HOK-10827HKR header gasket make by hooker. Hope that helps. William
If you have a matched combination of carburetion, camshaft, compression & exhaust you will reap the benifits of the increased flow in the two center exhaust ports.
If you have a weak link in your combination then the divider will probably be of no benifit at all.
Go with the flow, at least the potential is there, so why not use it.
I agree with David.
My divider is welded in & I have had no problems at all.
Just waiting on Mike at classic inlines to finish the new cylinder head, then you don't have to worry about this center port divider.
Like Linc stated, at least it keeps some of the exhaust heat away from the log, which in turn is more power in a warm or summer climate.
Dean, the correct header gaskets which have the center port divider are as follows: the correct number to order from summit is HOK-10827HKR header gasket make by hooker. Hope that helps. William
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Anonymous
Guest
hey guys... where can you find cotronics products? and is it better than j-b weld? thanks...
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Anonymous
Guest
Will JB weld handle the heat? I think someone on here tried it and it broke loose after a while.
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