purchased real numerical gauges what numbers should i be at

[trashline]

i purchased an oil pressure gauge and a water temp gauge. both of my gauges in the cluster were kinda funky and i wanted something a bit more reliable. im driving a 66 coupe with a 200ci and the 3.03 tranny. what is the oil pressure supposed to be at? i think mine might be a bit low bc of the 200,000 mark coming up in about 4000 miles. and the temp im not sure on the t- stat either, it is either 160 or 180 so i hope i can tell.

 

[MercuryMarc]

I was hoping someone smarter than me would respond, but I faced the temp question when I installed the aluminum rad on my 69 200 ci six. I was not able to find out what operating temperature was ideal, but I did notice that my 2001 VW Passat always runs at 190 (on the coldest day of winter and the hottest day of summer). So I have my Comet set up to kick on the fan at 205 and off at 180. The motor is so well cooled now that the thing never gets over 160 if Im driving over 35 MPH, sometimes 170's if slower. If I am idling or moving really slow (traffic jam) then the fan will engage briefly. That's with a 160 degree thermostat. All I can say is that it seems to work OK but I am not sure if it is optimal.

Good Luck -
Hopefully someone more experienced will let us both know!
Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop, 69 200 six
Dual Cupholders
http://mercurycomet.net

 

[MustangSix]

Later cars, like your EFI Passat, have 190 to 205 degree thermostats and can run hotter, more fuel and emission efficient temps. But much above 200 and you may have problems with a carbureted car, especially in hot weather.

In your case, I think I would set the fan to come on at a slightly lower temp, maybe around 180 or so, just to help help avoid any percolation or vapor lock problems.

 

[trashline]

for some reason the temp gauge i bought doesnt fit in the original hole of the sender. the hole is 5/8 and the sender is 9/16. ive looked around and no one sells a 5/8 adapter. are there anyother holes i can use? the adapter they gave me is 3/4 of an inch so

 

[Anonymous]

So I have my Comet set up to kick on the fan at 205 and off at 180. The motor is so well cooled now that the thing never gets over 160 if Im driving over 35 MPH, sometimes 170's if slower. If I am idling or moving really slow (traffic jam) then the fan will engage briefly. That's with a 160 degree thermostat. All I can say is that it seems to work OK but I am not sure if it is optimal.

Another consideration is that you want to tune the engine to operate optimally at a certain temp, using the thermostat to control it on one end and the fan on the other. Having a 45 degree range doesn't really allow for that. I understand 180 is best for our motors, so I have my electric coming on at 190. Like you it only comes on at idle. I've had no heat soak problems since I routed my gas supply line away from the intake and got my rad problem solved.

 

[MercuryMarc]

Thanks fot the temp tips- here is my problem. If I set the fan to kick in at 190, then it will not kick off until 165 which is close to the temp of the T-stat opening/closing. Since my sensor is on the rad not the block, I get the fan running forever since the t-stat closes and hot coolant sits in the sensor without any flow . I could solve the problem by having the sensor-switch mount to the block (not the rad) - any way to do this? Other solutions? PS- the on/off temp is adjustable, but not not the range (in other words I can set the on temp at any level, then it kicks off about 25 degrees less than that).

Thanks-
Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop, 69 200 ci 6
Dual Cupholders
http://mercurycomet.net

 

[Anonymous]

I'd just get a new control unit, one that turns on at 185 and off at 175. Got mine locally, wasn't too much, the adjustable ones are higher. I don't think yours is working properly if it's a 25 degree difference.

Nice car, I enjoy your site.

 

[trashline]

i got the problem fixed went to a hydrolic shop and they gave me a reducer. the gauges work both. but anybody know anything about oil pressure? my car after warming up idles at 20-25 psi and when i drive it is at 30-35 psi this sound good? or low?

 

[twentyover]

OK at idle, little low at speed. Just don't try to rev too high and you'll be OK

 

[trashline]

here are better numbers. after i worked out the kinks. i also have air in the mech line is this bad? probably. can i get rid of it? ok when i first warm up cold it stays at around 40 psi. after warm up it idles around 22 psi when i drive at 50 mph at around 2100 rpm it is at 33 psi when i stomp on it it goes up to about 38 psi. at 3400 rpm. i was told as a rule of thumb 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. i havnt gone over 55 yet so i am assuming psi should be around 40-45.

 

[MercuryMarc]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try to set the temp switch to start at 185 or 190 (not 200) and see how low I can set it before it runs forever. Hopefully it will turn off at least 5 degrees before my t-stat closes at 160. If that doen't work I found one on the web that turns on at 185 and off at 170 at: http://www.jegs.com//cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=25945&prmenbr=361.
Also, I found a very cool spacer that can get the temp sensor next to the t-stat at: http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/1749/

- wonder if it will work on my 200.

Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop, 69 200 ci 6
Dual Cupholders
http://mercurycomet.net

 

[Anonymous]

Thats a nice find Marc. My probe is in the rad fins and I would much prefer this one.

 

[MercuryMarc]

I just got a reply from the Spacer vendor- it is for a Chevy, not our Fords! Oh well., I guess I'll stick with my own spacer which is a "T" pipe fitting sliced into the upper rad hose between the t-stat and thd the upper radiator inlet. The temp sensor is mounted into with a reducer.
Marc in SF
63 Comet, 69 200 ci 6
Dual Cupholders
http://mercurycomet.net