Question about direct mounting a carb
- Thread starter Burge_Man
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
The stock intake has one single hole, and the two bolt holes are at an angle.
The commonly used 2 barrels all have four holes in a rectangular pattern.
This is NO physical way you could possibly bolt a 2 bbl carb to a 1 bbl intake without SOME sort of an adapter.
The commonly used 2 barrels all have four holes in a rectangular pattern.
This is NO physical way you could possibly bolt a 2 bbl carb to a 1 bbl intake without SOME sort of an adapter.
Howdy Burge_man:
The carb flange is milled of and an adapter is made from a piece of aluminum. The adapter is fastened to the milled log and the carb is mounted to the adapter.
Click on my signature. it will take you to our home page. Click on the photos on the left and you will see some asume possibilities.
Direct mounting allows for a lower fit and more hood clearance. It also increase flow over a funnel adapter.
Definitely worth considering.
Adios, David
The carb flange is milled of and an adapter is made from a piece of aluminum. The adapter is fastened to the milled log and the carb is mounted to the adapter.
Click on my signature. it will take you to our home page. Click on the photos on the left and you will see some asume possibilities.
Direct mounting allows for a lower fit and more hood clearance. It also increase flow over a funnel adapter.
Definitely worth considering.
Adios, David
A
Anonymous
Guest
Heres the link to how I did mine,
http://inlinefever.homestead.com/RamAir.html Mines different from everyone elses being I have plates for a single 1 Bbl, 2 1 Bbl's or a Holley 2 Bbl.
Its not that difficult or expensive to do!
Later,
Doug
http://inlinefever.homestead.com/RamAir.html Mines different from everyone elses being I have plates for a single 1 Bbl, 2 1 Bbl's or a Holley 2 Bbl.
Its not that difficult or expensive to do!
Later,
Doug
Take for what it is worth, here is an old post of mine. William
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... al+linkage
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... al+linkage
Just be aware that if you don't use the original spacer (the one with the hot water connections) that the Stovebolt adapter will have the carb sitting cocked at a wierd angle. If you DO use the stock spacer, you may run into hood clearence issues.
I bought both Clifford and Stovebolt, and am using the Clifford.
I bought both Clifford and Stovebolt, and am using the Clifford.
A
Anonymous
Guest
CZLN6":3t5fdyig said:
Worth repeating...
make sure you can still close your hood when it is all assembled.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Make SURE you understand what Whitepony just said above.
I hate it when I lose things.. One of the members of this forum 'ducktang' if he is still on here used a Stovebolt adapter directly mounted to his intake and carb. He had a funky lever to convert the stock linkage to work with the webber carb. I should know where to find those pics..
ugh, thank goodness for the fordsix search function..
http://www.geocities.com/dualsprings/ducktangpage2.html
Found it on this tread
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33699
(looks like I have some broken links
)
The pictures are not linked correctly so you need to right click on them and copy the properties then paste that into your webbrowser to view the fullsized images.
This is the image most of you are interested in seeing
http://www.geocities.com/dualsprings/5200carblinkage.jpg (122kb)
-ron
ugh, thank goodness for the fordsix search function..
http://www.geocities.com/dualsprings/ducktangpage2.html
Found it on this tread
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33699
(looks like I have some broken links
)The pictures are not linked correctly so you need to right click on them and copy the properties then paste that into your webbrowser to view the fullsized images.
This is the image most of you are interested in seeing
http://www.geocities.com/dualsprings/5200carblinkage.jpg (122kb)
-ron
A
Anonymous
Guest
CoupeBoy":3jewr0u1 said:
You can say that again. Looks like a bind waiting to happen.
LameHoof65
Famous Member
I know you will see this in the other posts but here is my setup, not quite finished yet but it looks fair.
Cost:
Milled Log $80, adaptor drilled and cut $77, and phenolic 1/4" spacer free from the yard. The rebuilt 2300/500cfm $90. about $250.00 for the set up a little more after purchasing studs and tapping holes most all of which is just time on my part. You can do it cheaper by doing the adaptor yourself...got my piece from a metal supply store for $12 initially. The rebuilt holley---or the 5200 you can also find cheaper if you look around. All in all you could probably get this job for about $150 to $175 if you do it yourself maybe cheaper.
See my other post for a different angle without the cleaner....man I love posting these pics..
Cost:
Milled Log $80, adaptor drilled and cut $77, and phenolic 1/4" spacer free from the yard. The rebuilt 2300/500cfm $90. about $250.00 for the set up a little more after purchasing studs and tapping holes most all of which is just time on my part. You can do it cheaper by doing the adaptor yourself...got my piece from a metal supply store for $12 initially. The rebuilt holley---or the 5200 you can also find cheaper if you look around. All in all you could probably get this job for about $150 to $175 if you do it yourself maybe cheaper.
See my other post for a different angle without the cleaner....man I love posting these pics..
A
Anonymous
Guest
darwin":25gfwxw1 said:
Personally, I would run a motorcraft 2 bbl.
Very cheap, easy to find - and they are an excellent carb.
kirkallen143
Famous Member
Howdy,
Just another way that I am doing to mount directly, is made an exact copy of the adapter plate out of 1/8" steel and then brazed this plate to the intake manifold (I bolted it down in two spots to ease up on any warpage, and none so far). I used rod called U-Tectic (other is Uniweld 1556) and it stuck to the cast like stink on...well you know what I was going to say. I did this because of the turbo set up so no leaks around the smaller contact surface on the maniflold after milling and drilling for the 2-barrel. This rod is good for up to 200 psi when done correctly. Then I will bolt the plate also to the manifold in two spots diagonally using one of the original tapped threads.
By the way, does anyone know what I can use to drill thru or grind down nickel? That's the rod they used to weld the other cast head that I have to fill in the low spots for the direct fit 2-barrel. Basically welded a 3/8" steel plate to the original 1-barrel hole, then had it milled flat. Now I am having trouble cutting the weld out. Colbalt, Titanium, Tungsten (works almost) I have tried with little to no success. Any suggestions are welcome.
Kirk ' 73 bronco
Just another way that I am doing to mount directly, is made an exact copy of the adapter plate out of 1/8" steel and then brazed this plate to the intake manifold (I bolted it down in two spots to ease up on any warpage, and none so far). I used rod called U-Tectic (other is Uniweld 1556) and it stuck to the cast like stink on...well you know what I was going to say. I did this because of the turbo set up so no leaks around the smaller contact surface on the maniflold after milling and drilling for the 2-barrel. This rod is good for up to 200 psi when done correctly. Then I will bolt the plate also to the manifold in two spots diagonally using one of the original tapped threads.
By the way, does anyone know what I can use to drill thru or grind down nickel? That's the rod they used to weld the other cast head that I have to fill in the low spots for the direct fit 2-barrel. Basically welded a 3/8" steel plate to the original 1-barrel hole, then had it milled flat. Now I am having trouble cutting the weld out. Colbalt, Titanium, Tungsten (works almost) I have tried with little to no success. Any suggestions are welcome.
Kirk ' 73 bronco
A
Anonymous
Guest
kirkallen143":v6r218lj said:
That sounds too thin. You aren't worried aboit it warping? Do you have any pics?
PS: Gonna be driving through Navasota tomorrow afternoon....
kirkallen143":3a62prdm said:
Use a carbide burr or a grinding stone one a die grinder or a dremel if you have plenty of free time.
A
Anonymous
Guest
If die grinder, forget air powered unless you have a 10 HP air compressor.
I have bought numerous $20 electric 1/4 die grinders from eBay, Harbor freight, etc. they will have the power to do what you want to do.
Stones take longer to cut than carbide burrs, but are a LOT cheaper than burrs.
I have bought numerous $20 electric 1/4 die grinders from eBay, Harbor freight, etc. they will have the power to do what you want to do.
Stones take longer to cut than carbide burrs, but are a LOT cheaper than burrs.
