Question about Ford 1970 6L 4.1L 250cui 155HP

No problem. I'll talk to Jo and Piet and get the following translated.

The fitting instructions for the McNeilly Mixture Control Block is below and will be translated. I'll talk with Tom tomorrow to check on avaliablity.

Note: Contrary to what I said, your jets are replaced, and in most instances, the upward postion gives you the 150% of stock jetting enrichment required for cold starting, which should be about 9:1 air fuel, or 14% CO, then it gets adjusted down via an exhast gas analyser to down to get 12.5:1 or about 6% CO under load. The choked setting is in the upward position, while a position equal to about 12.5:1 to 13.5:1 (6 to 3%CO ) air fuel under load will be the normal position. The power valve can remain for a landbased installation.

Detailed instructions are included - very detailed.
1. Remove the float bowl and jet plate.
2. Remove the jets and power valve from the jet plate. The jets
are not
used as the mixture control replaces them. The power valve is plugged
with a plug available from your Holley dealer.
3. Clean the parts and trail assemble. The locator pins are
specific to each type of carb. Trial fit without gaskets in place. If the unit does
not fit properly you probably have the wrong unit - Tom will exchange at
no cost. Work down any high spots that may cause "rocking".
4. Assemble the float bowl, gasket, mixture control, gasket, jet
plate,gasket and throttle body using the new screws supplied. The gasket
between the float bowel and the mixture has to be modiied slightly by
removing the little tab on the botton of the gasket (fuel inlet). Check
to insure the accelerator pump opening in the gasket is lined up with
the mixture plate.
5. Remove the stock accelerator pump arm and install the new longer
arm.
6. Fabricate a mixture control push-pull control. Full lean is
with the
tick mark on the control arm pointing towards the float bowl. Full rich
is with the tick mark pointing normal (90 degrees) to the float boal -
either direction. The arm has to be able to rotate 90 degrees in either
direction. Tom reports a couple of users had to extend the mixture arm
to decrease sensitivity of the unit. Full rich and lean stops must be
built into the control.
7. Initial start-up will probably result in the flow being about 150%
of the stock jets. Tom highly recommends a EGT be utilized to adjust.
Click to expand...
 
hi !

can u give me in translation to plz from A to Z what is must do ? with pic if u want or can :p

1:from engine now stock 1V
...
To engine start with holley 500cfm ?


thnx for everything

much appriciate !
sorry that i ask so much :P but nobody here know about doing something on the six cillenders,

greetz ken
 
wow, dis I gotta C.
I'll hafta go to the "...so then i can post wceverything off u on our mustang forum..."
and ask them to translate it back to english! With a build thread - pic at each stage of the operation, plez!
May be X is gunna start a matched race series of stangs in gents form Ghent?

U guys rock!
 
Hallo Kenneth

Geen A tot Z lijst gewoon nog niet. Ik moet controleren met u

1) de kickdown stangen,
2) het gaspedaal, en
3) de kap regeling, zodat de juiste luchtreiniger kan worden gekozen

Ik kan de automatische kick niet houden koppeling zoals het is. Het moet worden veranderd om de 302 v acht type. Ik zal het opsporen van de C4 type en maak een nieuwe aan te passen.

Ik kan het gaspedaal koppeling niet blijven zoals het is. Het moet worden veranderd om de 302 v acht type.


(Hello Kenneth
No A to Z list just yet. I need to check with you

1) the kickdown rod linkage ,
2) the accelerator, and
3) the hood arrangement so the right air cleaner can be chosen

I can not keep the automatic kick down linkage as it is. It needs to be changed to the 302 v eight type. I will track down the C4 type and make up a new one to suit.

I can not keep the accelerator linkage as it is. It needs to be changed to the 302 v eight type.)

De luchtreiniger zal moeten worden achter de carburateur, en onder de motorkap. Ik zie dat je een scoop op de motorkap, maar geen gat in de kap. Sinds de scoop op de motorkap is niet functioneel, is het het beste om een RR 3003 luchtfilter plaatsen achter de carburator en vormen een luchtfilterhuis omheen om te zorgen voor koele lucht gaat het ten alle tijden.

(The air cleaner will have to be behind the carburettor, and under the hood. I see you have a hood scoop but no hole in the hood. Since the hood scoop is not functional, it is best to place a RR 3003 air cleaner behind the carb and form an air box around it to ensure there is cool air going to it at all times.)


Basis Buiten Diameter: 6 inch (15,2 cm)
Flens Inside Diameter: 3 inch (7,6 cm)
Flens Lengte: 1,75 inch (4.4 cm)
Flens Type: Centered
Hoogte: 5 inch (12,7 cm)
Top Buiten Diameter: 5,25 inch (13.3 cm)

rr3001copia.jpg

RR-3003.jpg

Prijs Mike's is uitzonderlijk.

intakeD.jpg

http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... AF&cat=122
 
xctasy":1g653ur3 said:
Hallo Kenneth

Geen A tot Z lijst gewoon nog niet. Ik moet controleren met u

1) de kickdown stangen,
2) het gaspedaal, en
3) de kap regeling, zodat de juiste luchtreiniger kan worden gekozen

Ik kan de automatische kick niet houden koppeling zoals het is. Het moet worden veranderd om de 302 v acht type. Ik zal het opsporen van de C4 type en maak een nieuwe aan te passen.

Ik kan het gaspedaal koppeling niet blijven zoals het is. Het moet worden veranderd om de 302 v acht type.


(Hello Kenneth
No A to Z list just yet. I need to check with you

1) the kickdown rod linkage ,
2) the accelerator, and
3) the hood arrangement so the right air cleaner can be chosen

I can not keep the automatic kick down linkage as it is. It needs to be changed to the 302 v eight type. I will track down the C4 type and make up a new one to suit.

I can not keep the accelerator linkage as it is. It needs to be changed to the 302 v eight type.)

De luchtreiniger zal moeten worden achter de carburateur, en onder de motorkap. Ik zie dat je een scoop op de motorkap, maar geen gat in de kap. Sinds de scoop op de motorkap is niet functioneel, is het het beste om een RR 3003 luchtfilter plaatsen achter de carburator en vormen een luchtfilterhuis omheen om te zorgen voor koele lucht gaat het ten alle tijden.

(The air cleaner will have to be behind the carburettor, and under the hood. I see you have a hood scoop but no hole in the hood. Since the hood scoop is not functional, it is best to place a RR 3003 air cleaner behind the carb and form an air box around it to ensure there is cool air going to it at all times.)


Basis Buiten Diameter: 6 inch (15,2 cm)
Flens Inside Diameter: 3 inch (7,6 cm)
Flens Lengte: 1,75 inch (4.4 cm)
Flens Type: Centered
Hoogte: 5 inch (12,7 cm)
Top Buiten Diameter: 5,25 inch (13.3 cm)

rr3001copia.jpg


Prijs Mike's is uitzonderlijk. http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... AF&cat=122
Click to expand...


hi there ! i send u an PM ! greetz !
 
Hallo Kenneth

IK heb drukke dingen meten. De 1971 Twee Cilinder Falcon 250 hadden alle juiste onderdelen, dus een filter op afstand zoals IK gewend op mijn 1979 Falcon niet nodig. I'll be in touch sne

I have been busy measuring things. The 1971 Two Barrel Falcon 250 had all the right components, so a remote filter like I used on my 1979 Falcon won't be needed.

I'll be in touch soon
Click to expand...







xctasy":zan8ic0c said:
Anderen hebben getracht andere methoden om de motorkap clearnace aangelegenheden. Omdat de link zou kunnen dalen, IK heb gekopieerde deze als referentie. Kan het niet goed, maar ik heb de K&N Filter, en het werkt prima voor een I6.


Click to expand...

See babylon.com/english/to-dutch/Google%20translate/

 
just skimming the post...

I had a 1bbl to 2bbl journey...

the autolite cap'd out at 95hp (2000ft elevation)
the carter YF cap'd out at 114hp
the 2-1bbl holley 350cfm caped out at 127hp
the direct mounted 350cfm cap'd out at 145hp

all at the rear tire....

but the MPG droped EVERY time the carb went up. according to my gas history...
autolite 1100 max was 27.8mpg avg 21.2
carter YF max was 24.8mpg avg 20
2-1bbl holley 350cfm max was 22.7mpg avg 18.3
direct mount holley 350cfm max was 21.9mpg avg 16.5

now, please note the autolite never made 27.8mpg again, only once and that was down hill (7000ft to 2000ft elevation) after that highest was around 25.6

now for your clearance issues, I recommend the easiest method... slot the engine mounts. let the engine slide down 1/2 inch, it comes out to a little more than that on top because of the trans mount. then get a low profile carb hat to relocate the air-filter.
If you want the direct mount 2bbl, then braze the head... don't use putty.

good luck, and post some pictures!!
 
Ken Van Accolyen":pcb2ma4t said:
xctasy":pcb2ma4t said:
Zie viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70901 & viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70906

In afwachting van de gegevens


See, awaiting information.
Click to expand...


Hi there !

what must i do now ? :)
Click to expand...

Please wait.

I work as a road inspector for the Government and private industry.I can't give a timeline, I'm still working on it with my 3.3 engine in my Mustang. My two friends who speak Dutch, my co-worker on night shift, Jo, is away, and with my two laptops down, I no longer have internet access and time at work with her or Paul like I did back in September.

Haven't been able to get the three parts as its roading construction season here, and I've been busy doing my income tax return's as well.
 
"...income tax return's..."
WoW!
I thought NZ (& Oz) were together enuff to take care of that "remotely"
(i.e. no sweat). Oh, wait a sec! that's right, when puttin in the 'sweat' we
all ways come out better than when "they do it for us".

I hopin we declare a national min. wage (all the patches don't seem to work
the corps work around them all) and that it's done with an 'adjustment' at 'tax time'.
(Isn't that how the scandinavian's take care of it?)
 
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