Radiators..alum VS copper/brass

M

MandarinaRacing

Famous Member
Hello all....well my radiator is gone, no more, after almost 40 years of service and who knows how many rebuilds I 've decided to replace it with a new one.
Which brings me to this question....what would be better, a 2 row (race) aluminum or a 3 row bolt-on replacement.
Here's a list of pros and cons:
PROS:

Aluminum:
Lightweight
Better heat dissipation
Crossflow design
Wider row tubes

Copper/brass
Better heat transfer
Bolt-on, no modifications
Ease of repair

CONS

Aluminum
Difficult (PITA) to repair
Electrolysis

Cooper/brass
Corrosion

I had already made up my mind about the aluminum rad, but what scared me was the fact that it couldn't be (or very difficult) to repair.
Let me know what you guys think.

Alex
 
I lean more and more towards aluminium for performance applications. For a daily, it would be much harder to get an "on the spot" repair.

They're getting cheaper, too. What seems to be important is physical isolation to prevent corrosion of the material. Construction methods vary; some are fully brazed/welded, others partly bonded. I also believe that the fin spacings are varied by make/quality. Looks like the best bets are the DIY install ones for Ford/Mopar with remote filler. Dedicated Mustang kits are extortionate!

Cheers, Adam.
 
Although copper has better heat transfer properties for the metal only, the aluminum radiator has a better overall heat transfer coefficient due to the wider tubes and fin design. That said, I would think aluminum would be overkill unless you are looking for a slight weight reduction. Our small engines do not have a overheating problem with the stock radiators, and copper brass radiators can handle anything our engines will throw at it.

For some good info on aluminum radiators, you might look at DeWitt's radiator web site.

Doug
 
8) personally i stick with the copper/brass rads. never had a problem with one. aluminum is good, but tends to be delicate.
 
Either is easily repairable, but the aluminum needs the proper welding setup. The only ones I would stay away from are the later model composite plastic/metal ones.
 
Decisions, decisions.... :?
The radiators themselves cost about the same, $160-$180. With the factory replacement is just a bolt-on deal, the aluminum requires making some mounts (no biggie) and a set of new hoses.
Realistically how better would the aluminum perform, and just how more delicate are these rads????

Alex
 
Alex,

If I ever get another one it will definitely be an aluminum one! The OEM switched 10-12?? maybe even more?? years ago to the aluminum ones and they hold up just fine!

They are not delicate at all! I've replaced ones at work (after an accident) that were bowed 3 or 4 inches and they never sprung a leak :wink:

Later,

Doug
 
The way I look at it, when it comes time for me to replace the radiator I'm going with copper like the original.

If the first one lasted 40 years, then that same longevity is fine with me.
 
How often do you you really run into radiator problems tot he point you have to weld?
 
I just installed a three row yesterday. As usual, nothing went as planned. For starters, the three row is considerably thicker than the old two row so the stock fan was touching the radiator once installed. That's with no spacers. I searched high and low and finally found a hayden flex fan, their "high rpm" model, that has virtually no fforward protrusion at all. In other words, the face of the fan is flat with the mounting flange. That give me about 2" of clearance. Of course, it was too big and struck the upper hose and one of the trans cooler fittings, so out again (for the third time) with the whole shebang. I "carefully" trimmed the blades on the fan with my grinder and reinstalled everything again (for the third time). Finally it all works good.

The good news: No only can I R&R a radiator in 20 minutes now, but temprature is rock solid and lower than ever before. Oh yeah, I discovered that the p.o. had assembled the system with no thermostat. clearly his way of dealing with the overheating issue. I put in a 180* stat Needle is steady now. No wonder my heater didin't work worth a damn last winter!

P.S. I also installed a B&M trans cooler while I was at it.
 
After a new melltdown parading in Reno (idling for 2 hours in the summer at 8,000 feet at Hot August Nights) I replaced my 2 row brass with a 2 row racing aluminum radiator. A friend told me, "it's only 4 bolts..." To make a long story short, I eventually had to fabricate mounts, install an auxillary tranny cooler, get an electric fan, "T" into the hose to install a temp sensor switch, relocate the horns, and install a new water pump pulley that I had damaged after removing the radiatior for the 100th time. However, the car runs way cooler and the fan hardly ever kicks in.
Good Luck!
Marc in San Francisco
1963 Comet Ragtop
200 ci 6, C4 tranny, Pertronix, Alum Rad, Tranny Cooler, Electric Fan, Dual Cupholders
 
falcon fanatic how thick is the C/B 3 row radiator ???

also...

MercuryMarc how thick is the 2 row aluminum radiator ????

I guess either way I go needs some deeper research....

Thanks,

Alex
 
You can see before and after pics of the rad setup on my website-
go to Restoration page, then to the Radiator page.

http://mercurycomet.net

The Alum rad was not custom fitted, so it was a little wider than the brass one. It needed to be positioned back 1/2 inch from the rad support since it did not mate perfectly or I could have cut into the rad support. This meant I had to go to pusher fan - no room behind the fan on my Comet (not sure how much space on other cars).

I'll measure when I get home.

Marc in San Francisco
1963 Comet Ragtop
200 ci 6, C4 tranny, Pertronix, Alum Rad, Tranny Cooler, Electric Fan, Dual Cupholders
 
DAMN! :shock: That thing's huge!!! :shock: I guess when compared to the ol' 2 row which is like 1 1/2" thick.... :hmmm: Thanks Marc, that rad is at least 3" thick.

Alex
 
Yes Alex, but it's cool!
I cannot even begin to describe the PANIC that I felt when I was stuck in a parade on a crowded street, with spectators on both sides, and absolutely nowhere to escape! The temp guage was pegged to the right and I had the heater on full blast. Anyway, I never want to esperience that again, and I don't think I will with the setup I now have. I know it's overkill but I am not taking any chances.

Marc in San Francisco
1963 Comet Ragtop
200 ci 6, C4 tranny, Pertronix, Alum Rad, Tranny Cooler, Electric Fan, Dual Cupholders
 
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