All Big Six Recent acquisition.

Relates to all big sixes

Don357

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I am new here and found this site while looking for info on a project I am undertaking. I recently bought a 1983 F 150(?) 4x4, that originally came with a 351W, that was replaced with a 300 six, which had a knock that sounded like it has a monkey in the block with a ball peen hammer. Fearing the worst, I found a replacement six which was supposed to be a 300 but turns out to be a D1 AE code block with an EFI head. I haven't installed it yet but it is supposed to be a running engine. I'll keep updating for those who are interested and might have some input. Here are a couple of pictures. BTW, my other truck is a 2000 F150 XLT 4x4 5.4 triton.
 

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bubba22349

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That 1971 to 1972 short block was once a 240 cu. in, at least when it was new. But there's no telling what the rotating assembly parts it may have inside it now without measuring the crankshafts stroke. Good luck
 

BigBlue94

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Yup pull the head and check the stroke. 4" is a 300. It does still have the older valve cover and brackets on it.

Ive got a nearly identical situation. 74 E100 with a 240, was parked in 1986. In 2018 i pulled the head and found it was a carb 300 head with a couple broken pistons. Sucker lived a rough 12 years.
 

Don357

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Finally got the original engine pulled out of my truck. Turns out that it is a 240 also. Here are some pics of the truck and the engine. So far I haven't found anything that would cause the noise I heard. The only thing I found that could have even remotely caused it was that the the exhaust pipe was extremely loose at the manifold. I am considering putting it back I just to try it. But will probably pull the head just to see what I can see. More later.

IMG_20211204_154854560.jpgIMG_20211204_154928392.jpgIMG_20211204_154752648.jpgIMG_20211204_155245551.jpg
 

Don357

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I did some clarification on the head casting number. It seems to be Z6TE-C, but I can't decipher anything but the TE.
Also, the pressure plates are different.
IMG_20211204_155133864.jpgIMG_20211204_155118933.jpg
 

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pmuller9

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I think its E6TE as well.
If it is a E6TE it will have pedestal mount rocker arms. The 1985 and 1986 carburetor heads have pedestal mount rockers.
If that head is on the 240 block the compression ratio will be very low.
 
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Don357

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Ok, pulled the head today. Something definitely wrong with #6 cylinder. When I pulled the plugs, #6 had rust and the gap was completely closed. #6 cylinder was rusty and had water in it. So I guess I'm going to go to the other 240 with the EFI head. Supposed to be a runner.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Supposed to be a runner.
Define "runner".
While it may have been "...running when pulled" (aren't they all?) there is a big difference in 'runs' and 'working well'. I recommend you pull the head and inspect and refurbish the engine before installing it. Having it out of the vehicle is half the battle. These sixes are pretty easy to rebuild - about as simple as an auto engine can get.
Plus, that way you will be sure if it is a 240 or 300.

[The cast iron gooseneck and 8 mm plug wires with a big cap distributor lead me to believe it may be a 300. How many grooves are on the front damper sheave?]
 
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Don357

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According to your definition, I'm not sure. It's not locked up, and seems to have good compression, but that's all I know about it, so far. I'm going to clean it up and put it in, and go from there. Got to change out a few things, of course, but until I can find out more about the other one, it will have to do.
 

Don357

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Getting closer. Have pulled the water pump, (going to change it out with the one from the other engine, it's new), I'm glad I did, the impeller was rusted to pieces, and lots of rust in the block. I flushed it of course. Changing the fuel pump, thermostat housing, distributor, and intake/exhaust manifolds. Waiting for some parts to come in, mostly gaskets, plugs and wires. Then I have to round up some help to drop it in, and I can finish the rest.
 

Don357

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Got the engine in and bolted to the transmission.
I have one question though. When setting the distributor, should the #1 plug be at 6 o'clock or pointing towards #1 cylinder, or does it even matter as long as I get the firing order right? I'm used to working on v8s.
 

bubba22349

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HI Don357, to get your timing just right here is a link showing a 240 or 300 six'es point distributor position the DuraSpark II will be the same. Notice that the postion of the rotor is and that the the Distributors Vacuum Advance Canister isn't shown but this on a Six is usually pointing almost straight back at the firewall. The link also shows the corect Firing Order as well. For all these things to be right the engines #1 cylinder in this needs to be at 6 Degrees BTDC on the Compression Stroke (Also Check out the front Dampner pointer position shown in the diagram). The #1 position of the Rotor is about 5:30 and #1 is right on the Distrbitor caps #1 tower too. Good luck.

Ignistion Timing for the 240 And 300 Ford Six's
 
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