Shattered flex plate, who done it???

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I finally found the rattling that plauged my '64 Comet wagon with 2 speed Ford-o-matic trans.. It was the flex plate! Not only is it broken free fom around one of the bolts, but there is a large chunk missing. What would have caused this? What damage could this have caused if it was driven like this for awhile? I imagine it would really do a number on the crankshaft being out of balance for so long. This is the reason the previous owner sold the car. It sounded like the engine. After tightening what was left of the flex plate the sound was gone. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
Mate, you are so fortunate its not worse than that.


Get a new 132 teet item, drop the transmission, and replace. Starter should be okay.


Hmmmm. Cookie monster has been on a high iron diet, and has given up cookies for Ford Flexplates :wink:
 
You can replace it for under $30.00 from any auto parts store. Ford had a TSB (Technical service bulletin) out on this problem back in the 80's.

It shouldnt have caused any major problems to your engine or tranny.

Thats why I have always suggested that people replace the flexplate whenever they do a engine rebuild! :D :D


Doug
 
IMPORTANT!

When you install the new one, torque it evenly, 25% at a time, in a cross pattern, on the crank first. Then, MOST IMPORTANT, hand-start all 4 nuts on the convertor, then lightly snug up #1, turn it 180 degrees and recenter it on the studs and snug up #3, then turn 90 degrees to snug #4 and finally turn another 180 degrees and snug up #2. ALWAYS turn it in the forward direction, don't back it up. Turn to #1 again, torque it down, then repeat as above, same pattern.

Someone in the past didn't do this on yours - it caused sideways torque loading in one section of the flexplate, which fatigued it until it broke.

5+ years ago, I rebuilt my engine and used the old flexplate - everything was fine until the tranny wore out 20,000 miles later at 205,000 miles, so I had a local reputable shop rebuild it. BUT, they installed the flexplate wrong, tightening #1, #2, #3 and #4 in that order. It broke just 3,000 miles later. They overcharged me $350 to install a new one. It went 8,000 miles and now it, too, is broken. They installed it the same way: #1, #2, #3 and #4.

An old, retired Ford man told me how to do it the right way. It seems the same flexplate is used for 260/289 engines, so there's no way a 170/200 could ever break it from sheer power.... I'm about to re-replace it myself, so I can drive trouble-free for another 200,000 miles.
 
I won't argue with the importance of torquing the flex plate evenly like MarkP describes.

I will point out the that the 200 doesn't use the same flex plate as the V-8s, they have a ring gear welded to their perimeter that the 200 doesn't have- it's ring gear is welded on the torque converter. This makes the 200 flex plate much weaker in design, consequently that torquing pattern might be even more important....

Oops- re-read the post and realized the original discussion was not about C4 flexplates. My experiences and comments only apply to C4s. I don't know if they apply to the older 2 speeds or not.
 
I had that same problem with mine long ago. I can't say if it caused any engine damage or not. Found a new one at a Ford dealer and it's been fine ever since.
 
The inherant vibration of the long crankshaft of an lsix resulted in many cracked flex plates on 4 main bearing non damperned engines. This was one of the reasons for those developments on later engines. I had a 64 Futura that cracked it's flex plate at about 100,000 miles. When i went to the junkyard for a replacement the first three i looked at had cracked flex plates also.
 
MarkP":2r2sukpt said:
IMPORTANT!... hand-start all 4 nuts on the convertor, then lightly snug up #1, turn it 180 degrees and recenter it on the studs and snug up #3,.......

I didn't do that - - I am going to go out and loosen all of mine, then tighten them as you described.

Thanks!!
 
Link, read this before you loosen the flex plate fasteners. If you do that you may cause an oil leak from the rear main-crankshaft flange area.
Remove the flexplate bolts completely & reseal them before re-installation using the recommended torque sequence. These flex plate bolts are exposed to oil from the rear main oil seal area, use caution. If you loosen them, remove them & reseal the flexplate bolts otherwise you are subject to an oil leak from the rear of the engine at the crankshaft. William
 
wsa111":rfyejk54 said:
. These flex plate bolts are exposed to oil from the rear main oil seal area,

Thanks William, I already knew that. I use Permatex liquid Teflon thread sealant when installing the crank bolts.

When I bolted up the trans, I just tightened each torque converter nut as I turned the engine over by hand, one after another in the order they "arrived" as the flexplate rotated. I did turn it in the direction of rotation, but I snugged them all "in a row" counterclockwise, then tightened each as it came by again. I need to pull the starter off and do it like you said to. (the MOST IMPORTANT part)
 
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