slo growth 170/D20/3.03 to 250/D20/NV3550

chad

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Moved -a-Thread

Might as well have my own, just never thought it a good idea as knew it would take a long time. Mike W. encouraged me to do so but (as compaired to most the folks I C on here) I wuz a lill embarised to take the space...

Post #1
Well I keep reading your signature (bmbc40) and wanting to go almost in that entire direction. After puttin around since '82 I'm ready for some changes. Just rebuilt the carter YF w/help from the ford-truck (FTE) forum and seems like a new rig!!! No money (unemployed) so THAT was afordable. From what little I know the ZF may be for me. Body lift, Bilstiens, 250 (for $600, but down in TN me in MA :cry: ) all the clifford stuff, some ignition upgrade. Nice to dream...The '77 frame and accoudermints (2" SL, D44, PS) this summer helped. Ring n pinion to match the 33". I'd be done (ie in the poor house, but happy :LOL: ).
May be @ our next contact I'll take U up on your help offer n tell U my need, pick your brain about if the above dreams 'ill 'get me there'? I think you're in NV and that could mean you have some insights not available to me!
Again, thanks for your contacts/offer/presence.
Chad
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Post #2
Re: 170 out..250 in...(name of ol post by Jebus)
chad » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:40 pm

what the heck, I got the D5DE too. Different state different guy (has "M" head, is '69 stang). Step 2 is the steam clean. Now I need a bell n starter to listen/ck compression on the stand. 4.9/300 I6, 5.0/302, 351/5.8, any other bells fit. What would the vehicles B? What yrs? Same ol' prob., all crushed around here n don't know "who had what" but know what I need.

Some 1 said my 4.1L's fly wheel, bein so thin (1/2" or less), is auto n I could get either auto or manual transmission bell. Don't sound right? I'd like to get a mani so it'll slide in where my 2.8 was, said it'd bolt right up. Guess I can put the fly wheel from the 2.8 to it? If I got a bell w/hydrolic do you think it'd spin a ZF if I snuck it in behind (one for $300 from neighbor)? May B a 5.0 bell from one of the ford p/u or SUV's had a donner (4 this) w/a hydrolic clutch to fit in the ZF - bad idea?. What else is needed beside slave n master for that - change the clutch, throw out, pilot, bronk's peddle? May B a different cross member 4 the ZF?

Most expensive is to put my C4 to it (needs rebuild). That's nother Q. Bronk is a work truck, need low rev grunt. Auto w/OD may not fit the bill (w/a 250), No high revs allowed, hmmm wonder bout that with the C4, may B manual throtle body.

2" suspen. lift I got = no pan probs, still need the 1" BL? Option: graft the 170 to the 250 pans, redirect the p/u tube to (is it) rear or frnt sump for the 4.1 conversion? Looks like it's in the middle as stock.

Wow, lotta Qs. Long way 2 go, unemployed. Wish me luck...
Back later re: carb n motor build - 1st things 1st.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749[/s

Post #3
by 1strodeo
Re: 170 out..250 in...
» Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:55 pm

Hey Chad did you ever do the 250/3550 install?
If the OP sold the halfcab I'm guessing he no longer frequents this site?
Jeff

Post #4
by bmbm40 » Wed Mar 01, 2017 10:26 pm

That dude has been gone a long time. His plan was part of the inspiration for my 250 swap.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

'81 F150 4x4 300
New guy? Get this>http://www.falcon6handbook.com


Post #5
chad » Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:57 am

Well Jeff, things R progressing v e r y slowly.
Got a coupla motors (long story - 1 frm VA one frm TN, two long term on-line buddies [10 yr.s each] for 150$ shippin, 150$ each). One has been machined and partially assembled. I'm hand fitting the exh. port divider in the '69 250 ('stang) right now. I cleaned the rockers but need to get the end plugs for the r. shaft back in. Uncertain on the prt #s.
Got an NV 3550 and just need 100$ more for the adaptors (will take one month more for final savings - that's a wk's pay!). Almost all parts R here'n assembled, just need to place on the rig. Last of the logs have been hauled up to the neighbor's band saw mill. After 30 some yrs the bronk's final season is about here (late March early April - no more trees to drop, the baby forest animals will be nesting there & don't wanna kill any). Hopin to switch from 70% off / 30% on rd to the opposite…
Thanks for askin~
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Post #6
Re: 170 out..250 in...3.03 out NV3550 in
chad » Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:37 am

well, 170's pulled.
Time 2 power wash the bay'n scratch, wipe'n paint the bay (& 'under' hood)..

The NV bell's gone & the AA adapter'n ford sb bell is mounted.

I don't look forward to swappin out the spud shaft on the D20. Gotta glue the numerous roller bearings in (w/heavy grease) the housing while swapin the transfer's output shaft to the AA one.

This aint like the 34 yrs of simple maintenance I been doin
8^0 yikes

BTW:
Wanna buy a strong 170? a 3.03? (some ada local circle track guys use this 3 speed - good to 500HP, due to lightness)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Post #7
bmbm40
Re: 170 out..250 in...
Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:48 pm

Good progress!
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires
'81 F150 4x4 300
New guy? Get this>http://www.falcon6handbook.com


Post #8
chad
Re: 170 out..250 in...
» Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:09 pm

bmbm40 wrote:
Good progress!
don't know bout that...ur already there!
Got coupla wkends left,

AND thnx !

bronks, umphf...
:roll:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017

Post #9
chad
transfer done - onto last motor procedures
» Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:26 pm

lill trouble gettin all the ol gears onda new spud shaft...
didn't wanna crush the 1st one on - the oil seal. BUT...
the C-clip wouldn't go on (the slot didn't show @ end) last gear wuz coverin it.
Took over to the press'n "cheeeeeek, creeeeek" pressed down till the shaft showed the final slot...bout the same time -
a 'bottoming' could B felt in the pump arm of the ram. "Better stop right there"

So now it fits the c-clip. Roller/Needle berrings seemed too big for the housing/gears but glued em into place w/da grease. Slipped the shaft into the Transfer. Seems fine after all.
Onto snot-gasket-snot to mate transfer to transmish...but he stopped me. Doesn't wanna put them in as a set. Wants one-@-a-X.

Back to da motor. Vaced a corn kernal out of the thermostat reciving area of the block. Musta come frm the corn bin other side of the garage? Damn mice! We just re-did an engine harness a lady brought us frm mice damage.

Ready to tq the APR head bolts (head on just to keep the dust out). Is it 80 ft lbs of tq? Don't know? How do I find out?
 
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chad

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OK, godid !
went to APR site, Rich Creation's post @ Index page hada link...

80 ft lbs / 3 cycles 2 get there

wonder if I shoulda got the rod bolts too?
:devilish:
 

chad

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made up lift plates to mock up motor / transfer / dodge transmis off of my stand/tester.
Wish some 1 hada "permanent lift-plates' template 4 me.

Might lay em out on the floor this wk...lill trouble w/supplied 11inch clutch. Right spine for the dodge but too big for the FW. S4!t, this stuff has gotten all mixed. Ol clutch, pressure plate, pilot, FW. New clutch, TO bearing, another FW, the 170, a 300 and a 250 FWs, jeesh, humm, umm, ooof. 3 yrs has dulled the memory! Told em (Advance/TBP) not to send the 302 clutch but they'd not wrk on "what will fit the 250?"
:oops:
 

chad

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picked upa 250 PP, ol 170 wont do, think the TO sent in the Advance Adapters kit will work. Trimmed dwn Toms Bronco Parts clutch disc to fit the ford p. plate. They all fit the 300 (or is it a 250?) FW.

The 250 is a lill longer (3 inch, 6??) than the bent8 this kit usually goeswid. I wonder if I need to move the motor forward so as to have the 2 shift levers still inda frnt seat? How bout the lill clutch pivot bracket or bell crank support...not sure this alu bell shipped wida motor has a place for it. More Qs for 'when we get there".
 
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chad

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transfer cleaned'n wire brushed. Some 1 had painted it B4 my ownership pre '83. Some typea red (not quite oxide red primer - brighter)...the whole body (of the vehicle) had an original red/maroon like the oxide primer, tho (some day I'll read the tag'n decipher the paint code).12 March '21 EDIT: ?'Rangoon' Red?

Have always heard bout POR15. Found it ina rattle can on line. Never saw that B4. Kept searchin till it came down to $9 a can. No wrd on if it needed primer underneath but this 1 is listed "top coat". Hit the Transfer wid brake cleaner, wiped down w/non-lint cloth. Sprayed away on the typical "one spring day" we have in New England (1st, last? warm sunny day in May B4 the rest go to hot'n sticky). Too lazy to tape off so got some on the near 3 inch thick alu adaptor plate. May just leave it there. Buddy who's garage it's in sez: "Hey, U paid thousand bucks 4 dat stuff'n get paint all over it?"

Thinkin bout headlght conversion. Prices R down enuff - may B I can aford $65 for glass buckets, relays, new pig tails'n H2 bulbs? We'll C... 🤔
 
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chad

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Finally got some time Sat, soooo: oil temp s.u, thermostat, motor mount bolts & old mounts/towers bolted back on~

One of the old towers/mounts came apart at the lower (metal/rubber) joint. It's the '68/9 falcon/stang style (I assume). A rubber saddle (a U shape with 3 or 4 inches between the 2 up legs) w/a frame bolt stickin out opposite side (looks like a "T"). The motor mount that broke off looks like a metal "L" inside another "L" (no rubber). When pulling the 170 engine I just took the frame bolts off and pulled the motor w/it all assembled a year or so (feels a decade) ago.

I bought the "late MavericK" towers back then too but don't C how to put them on. They don't fit any holes on the motor, they're the kind with the frame stud (a big central 'stud' to thru bolt to frame) stickin thru one side'n flat rubber on the back - so may B I need a different motor mount & this is a frame tower. I understood these were to B egged out or slotted down to drop the motor lower in the frame - a bronk never came w/a 250 (2 inches higher than the 170/200). One problem is this motor has 2 dip sticks & the carb air horn hit the hood. B4 I bought it in '83 some 1 put a 2 yr older car 170 in. They musta swaped in the bronk's rear sump pan as that 2nd stick is there too (pass. side). This creates the difficulty of inability to know what parts 'should B there' - to mod into 'what can B there'. Second problem is ppl use the term motor mounts to mean the whole apparatus that locates an engine to a frame. I use the term "(motor) mount" to indicate the part @ motor and "tower" to indicate the frame side of the assembly. I still have the metal towers that located the bent8 in 1 of my bronk doners (sawed off the frame) but these will only increase the motor's hight in the bay...

Third problem, does any one have ideas on what the 'Maverick mounts'n towers', when completed - look like? Pic ideal. WHat does the motor mount look like in this assembly? Do I have the tower? I can't use the falcon/stang mount w/these maverick towers (I'd like to - they are nice'n flat!). Like to use the ford parts'n not fab up stuff (will hafta do so again in the future to replace, they're well engineered, inexpensive).

Well, tomorrow is back to it - a three piece 30 foot drive shaft change. This is gunna B heavy!
 

bubba22349

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Do you have any pictures of the mounts set them next to each other. (y) :nod:
 

chad

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no 'camera', unfamiliar w/how to post. Will pursue both, not sure how fast (2 wks?).
 

chad

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I went to VI - always my 1st stop for all things "i6 motor" and enjoyed seeing a product that may suit the "late Mav mounts" sold 2 me by the AutoZone I worked for.
From my look see I identified what appears to B the actual motor mount that may match the new component I have. I say this because it too is of low profile. It appears it may mate to the in-hand component (new, not offa the ol 170). From the design of what I have it actually looks like a tower rather than a mount. Matt (& others) have this flatter mount (than the "L" shaped old part/falcon & stang). W/o camera or upload understanding may B I can post both new components for your observation. Can't display the old prt as I see it nowhere.
[image] [imagecap] [/imagecap] [/image]

https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... 78-83-pair (motor mount I think will match & 'lower' the motor)

The 'tower' I purchased a yr ago (but not as fat as this'un):
https://www.autozone.com/collision-body ... 34_0_12553

Matt also lists an earlier mount like 1/2 the component (top 1/2, the mount w/o the tower) on the vehicle when I purchased it in '82.

Any 1 (Bubs/Jimmy?) know if these 2 'go together' & thusly "raise the hood"? I can't tell if this mount will fit the bolt holes on the 250 or bolt into the "late Mav" (seemingly tower, not mount) I have. I assume the 1 I have will bolt into any frame. Neither seems to have the room to egg out or slot for 1 inch more 'drop' as was suggested by others yrs ago.

Thanks for lookin in and esp for ur posts to-date.
 

chad

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not much time this wk...
Matt's gunna send the mounts go w/the '77 Mav 'towers'. The assembly looks pretty thin (read 'lowers the motor'). Not sure it fits the '69's bolt holes OR the towers I got. Will C / report later~
8^ )
 

chad

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Well,
got nother set, these frm a member here - the true "late Mav" mounts,
They musta came w/a blivet insteada bolt to connect the mount'n tower into one unit cuz -
these R supplied that way.
Like the many pic I've seen there's a small angle (10*?) in them & 1's bigger than the other.

I don't C much metal in the motor mount side to "egg out" (elongate/slot/clearance vertically) as had been
recommended to "lower the motor" (1 of the 5 - 7 'raise the hood' methods). I'll B usin just bout every
1 as 36 yrs of running this rig Scott Burns used to plow his Sunoco franchise & then I used in my wood lot
has had it's hood beat up by the induction system from the underneath (carb/ac housing, etc). Plez,no more.
The RBS should help w/that, these mounts on the 250 (altho that motor will not). Wonder if the 170 pan will need
a graft to the 250's pan - lowerin it will sure nudge it closer to the D44 chunk
 

chad

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hummm...what happened to posts # 14 plus.
Any way used the 170/250 pan splice trick. A 200 screen & extension tube (the tube now has a tab over to the main cap bolt) so kept a rear sump.

Gota good score in Winnipeg. Lots of Grenade-a parts offa the top of the 250 engine. The 2 lift eyes, carb linkage (RBS is a lill different than the YF), AC housing, C4/carb links. From '73/4 ahead they went w/a fresh air tube out behind batree to thru the core support (behind head lght/pass side) to compensate for a carb ontopofa exhaust. W/my last-CI-headers-sold I want some cooler air. May go w/the oe I'd really like to figure how ta use the alu/fined carb hat and matchin VC. I have the fresh air tube (it flatness out to go behind the batree) that was bronk oe so I need some ideas on flat (rectangle) to round transition piece. My usual go to - duck tape (quack, quack) wont do this time :stick: (hey what happened to our "no no no" guy?).
 

chad

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this might help? not sure
Rectangular Vent Adaptor – 4in. x 2in.

1627620383891.png
 
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bubba22349

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Hi Chad, so what combo of parts did you finally end up with? Did you get that fresh 250 six installed in your Bronco with the NV3550 adapted? Pictures? Hope your feeling good, best of luck.
 

chad

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"...fresh 250 six installed in your Bronco with the NV3550 adapted?..."
"Yes", some clutch problem to figure out (originally thought it might B the shift tower). Pulled some tricks to get the dodge clutch into the ford bell (C above - spline/diamiter). Pretty busy w/other vehicles when @ the garage. Some free time anticipated in fall (but decreased hrs over there). I continue to collect prts. 8^ )
Thnx 4 askin.
 
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chad

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OK, more progress taday. Might help all but specific to mine:
W/help from dat o'time standard bubs of course:

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2. Then you have the starters trigger wire from the old fender mounted starter cable moving down to the new starter Termanal use a 12 to 10 gauge wire for that. That's about all there is to it (Note this also) if you have a point type ignistion system or a Mallery Unilite distribtor, in that case you will need to use a diode (there are wire kits for this or you can make your for about 5 cents plus running some wire up to the coil) to allow a full 12 volts of power to coil during starting / cranking you can ask me if you need help with this.

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As wallon7 posted you could link the two solenoids as in 1. & 2. so they operated together (see below link modding the Stock Ford Starter Solinod Wiring Diagram to Power the Newer Style PMGR Starter). There are also some old posts on the PowerMaster PMGR starters showing were people looped a jumper wire from the starters battery (largest) post to the second (largest) post this is a big no no and causes the starter to stay engaged with flywheel for a few seconds. Good luck (y) Edited

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So now we got CI headers'n connectors (so fine, like Matt's @ VI - the 'ball joints" it all 'bends' around the starter). A nice "fits all" 'heat shield". Thena 3G alternator & I think I can 'smooth' all these wires oudda the engine bay (no regulater, no solinoid).
 

chad

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couldn't find Seth's pic post. Went w/DB Elec (surprised @ price 45? 65? $) an FE app.
Wrapped it this am (VI/CI headers still pretty close but -0- adapting) & fit 1st 2 of CI's pipes. The 'ball joint' makes it so easy. Wire that AWG#10 up to the solenoid nxt.
Hadda do a ford diesel van's rear main for boss's income instead. Local fella hauls round flooring (etc) tile in it. U need some grunt for that !

Still futzin w/the back of the PS pump (fittings, some ol hydraulic lines). Boss brazed some stuff up, I painted...(not too bad, cant tell w/the paint).
Let's hope no leaks going forward (or in reverse 8^ ) "a joke son, a joke, I said, I said a..."

Matt's carb hat arrived. Die grinded a tighter fit tween outter/top & bottom plate. Needa stud to match it to the oe threaded brace/holder (anda nut to match a finned CH). I see the throttle cable's 'over the VC cover' (late model) bracket on some of the 'finned v/c' will still stretch (may B I should knock off the ford lght blue I just painted it & "buff'n shine" so it matches? Starting to get into the weeds here sorry). Back to the 'major' later.
 
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