Starter won’t stop

Tighthead123

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Hello!
When I attempt to start my Mustang the starter will keep Running. Car will start but starter won’t stop. Even when I pull the key it keeps running until I take ground off battery. I thought ignition switch might be bad. Replaced ignition switch but it Didn’t solve issue. Took my starter off and had it bench tested. They said it was no good. Replaced starter and the wires running to starter. Ground To fire wall and wire to solenoid. Didn’t solve issue. Solenoid is new but shows under 12 volts at the S terminal. My next thought was neutral safety switch.... I’ve been looking at wiring diagram but I am at a lose right now. Inline 6 200
 

bubba22349

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Hi Tighthead123, did you test the voltage at the battery thermals and at the solenoids battery post Posative side? Did you test the voltage at the ignistion switch? Do you have a good ground from the engine block to the Mustangs chassis? On ground wire to firewall and wire to Solinod where did you hook up the wire to the Solinod? Can you take a picture of all the wiring connections?

On the operation or working condistion of the neutral safety switch, you can test its correct operation by putting the car in any gear other than in the Park or Neutral positions and try starting it if it won't try to start except when it's in park or neutral than there is nothing wrong with the switch. Good luck (y) :nod:
 

Tighthead123

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Battery is over 12 volts. 12.41 at terminals.
At positive side of solenoid from battery it tests over 12 volts. When I turn ignition to start and test I post of terminal it is 4.5 volts, same at S post and post going to Starter. Ignition has over 12 volts. I unhooked wires going to neutral switch. It’s 12 volts at the connection on firewall coming from ignition switch.
Positive side of solenoid has wire from battery and wire going to alternator
I post is from ignition/ neutral switch.
S post has wire to carb for electric choke, wire to distributor and wire to tachometer.
Last post has wire going to starter.
 

bubba22349

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Tighthead123":1irimwln said:
Battery is over 12 volts. 12.41 at terminals.
At positive side of solenoid from battery it tests over 12 volts. When I turn ignition to start and test I post of terminal it is 4.5 volts, same at S post and post going to Starter. Ignition has over 12 volts. I unhooked wires going to neutral switch. It’s 12 volts at the connection on firewall coming from ignition switch.
Positive side of solenoid has wire from battery and wire going to alternator
I post is from ignition/ neutral switch.
S post has wire to carb for electric choke, wire to distributor and wire to tachometer.
Last post has wire going to starter.

Your back feeding power to the S terminal of the Solinod!
1. Correct and Good on battery voltage at posts and the battery side of the solenoid.
2. Alternator output is also correct to battery side of Solinod.
3. Good on the other side of solinod and down to the starter.
4. The power coming from the ignistion switch to the neutral saftey switch (12 volt) is correct.
5. The neutral saftey switch being hooked up to the I post is wrong. Disconnect it and see below for correct wiring.
6. The S post has lots of wrong wiring going to it, so your back feeding into the the S terminal of the Solinod this why the starter keeps turning. The S terminal should only have one wire going to it that is coming from the output side of the neutral safety switch. This should be 12 volts going through N S switch to the S terminal and only when the ignistion key is in the start position with the trans shifter in neutral or park.
7. Disconnect the electric choke wire, the wire to Distribitor and the tachometer wires off of the solenoids S terminal if this is a Factory Ford type electric choke on an Autolite / Motorcraft carb it can be hooked up to the S (stator) terminal on the back of the alternator. If this is any other electric choke unit that requires 12 volts it will need to be wired differently tell me what it is and I can tell you how to wire it. Do Hook up your electric choke wire to the S (Stater) post on the back of Alternator.
8. For your combo of parts disconnect the wire to I terminal of the Solenoid you don't need to use it.
9. If you have a tachometer in your car then it's wire gets hooked the the CRT Distribitor plugs into the T termanial wire (Usually is Blue), if you don't have a Tach don't hook up any wire.
10. The other wire coming from the neutral saftey switch is for the back up lights this is only attavated when the trans shifter is in reverse position, these wires are not hooked up to any part of the ignistion starting circuit.
11. An extra ground wire can be hooked up anywhere there is a 1/4 to 3/8 inch threaded boss on the engine block front there is one that the battery's ground cable is hooked to. You could use one of the motor mount bolts or at rear of the block one of the stater mounting bolts or a Bellhousing bolt all would be suitable locations. Then contect a 10 gauge or larger wire (bigger is always better) over to a good mounting location onto the Frame / Chassis.

Did this car run before you swapped the starter and other parts? Hope that helps you, good luck (y) :nod: Edited and updated 5/7/20 for the combo of parts your using.
 

Tighthead123

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Thanks so much I will swap those around. The carb is a Weber 32/36 DGEV. Can I put the tach wire at the back of alternator as well or fuse box, switched power.
 

bubba22349

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No you shouldn't put tach wire there. Since you have a CRT HEI Distribitor the Tach wire if you have a Tach in your car is hooked up to the T usally a Blue wire hooked to the termal on the Distribitor cap. If you don't have a Tach then that wire isn't hooked up. For the distribitor power B+ On cap normally it's a (Red) wire you should use a relay to power it and use the pink wire from the ignistion switch to trigger the relay see last post of today 5/6/20 for info on wireing of the relay. The Distribor needs a good Ground to the engine or chassis. The Webers carb's electric choke can be hooked up to the alternator S post like the stock Ford electric chokes. :nod: (y) Edited with correct info as of today 5/7/20
 

Tighthead123

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ok well the starter stopped continually turning over but now the car will only turn over once. When i put the multi meter on the "I" post it only says 4,5 volts with key in start position. I will keep investigating. I tried to start in drive but it did not turn over so I know neutral safety switch is working. i must have a short between neutral switch and solenoid.
 

bubba22349

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I think you still might have some wrong wiring conections yet. The S (Starter) terminal should see 12 volts coming in from the neutral saftey switch with the key turned to the start position. The I (ignition) terminal wont be used for your combo of parts. Do you have 12 volt going into the S terminal? If you do and you are not also getting 12 volts at the I terminal without wire connected then the Solinod is defective.

On the Weber choke hook up
If the cover has two electrical blades on it to hook up one is grounded to one of carbs choke cover screws, and the other blade is power its hooked to the alternators' S post (stator). If it is a single pin type than the cover is all ready grounded and the center pin is wired to the alternators S (stator) post. If the carb has a hot air hook up you will need to hook that to the exhaust manifold stove pipe if it dosen't have one than you can leave it unhooked and cap it or remove it and plug manifold hole with a drive in pin. Good luck :nod: Edited for 5/5/20 for parts combo being used.
 

Tighthead123

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I took off instrument panel and discovered three wires with no home. I connected the pink with male connector to the three female connector and tested at solenoid with key in start. "I" terminal was reading 12 to 30 volts.
 

bubba22349

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:shock: Why? What lead you to do that? You are going to get yourself in the weeds by randomly disconnecting and conecting all these wires without knowing what they do. :banghead: Not all the wires are hooked up in a factory wiring harness it depends on the year the car as well as the factory equipment options the car was made with.

The Pink wire that is connected to the ignistion switch (this is a resistor wire) it should now go to the new relay to control power to the CRT HEI Distributor, or bypassed with a new wire to bring full voltage to the + post (red) wire of the Distribitor. Edited for 5/5/20 info on HEI.
 

bubba22349

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I found where you stated its a 1965 Mustang so its an alternator system. Here are a comple of wiring diagrams for a 1965 Mustang dash gauges and the starting circuit (with an alternator) if you will follow these wiring diagrams they should get you to were everything is hooked back up correctly for the factory stock wiring. Then refer back to the above posts for the extra accessory items and let me know if there's anything else I can help you with. Best of luck (y) :nod: Edited

1965 Mustang Dash Wiring
https://averagejoerestoration.com/resou ... /1965a.jpg

1965 Mustang Starting Circuit Wiring
https://averagejoerestoration.com/resou ... /1965c.jpg
 

Tighthead123

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I slowed myself down. Started taking my time. I don’t have much patience for electrical issues. Thanks for the diagrams. Diagram helps but old wires don’t seem to have the same color as stated.... I do not have 12 volts at S terminal when key is in Start. I checked ignition, all good. I checked at connection on firewall going to neutral switch. 12 volts going to switch. I checked from switch no 12 volts. I did a continuity test and it returned OL. I pulled switch and manually went through each position on inner ring. All returned an OL reading. Wire from solenoid to switch looks good. It did not start in drive though.
 

bubba22349

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Thank you for the feedback. So on the neutral saftey switch there should be a pair wires red with a blue stripe and a pair that are black with a blue stripe. The red with blue stripe wires are the ones that receive power coming ignistion switch to firewall and that should be reading 12 volts in the start position only. Then through the Neutral saftey switch and to the starter solinod S terminal. Were you testing the red / blue wires?

The black / blue wires are for the backup lights that are active only if the trans shifter is in the reverse position. However the black / blue wire at firewall is going to read 12 volts all the time that the key in Ignition switch is in the on / run postion.

Testing the neutral saftey switch when the shifter is in the Park or neutral position the red / Blue wires should have continuity. The same for the black / blue wires with the shifter / switch is in the reverse position.

These netural safety switches rarely go out but they can get to be out of adjustment i can tell you how to adjust it if you want after you put it back on, or you can replace it if you think the switch is worn out. (y) :nod: Edited
 

Tighthead123

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If I am not getting 12 volts at S terminal what else could be causing the lack of voltage to the solenoid. Looking at the diagram it’s either the neutral switch or the ignition, right?
 

bubba22349

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I was finishing up some editing of the above post. Nothing is going to be wrong with the ignistion switch since you have 12 volts at the firewall. That leaves the neutral saftey switch not being adjusted right or its worn out for one of those two reasons you don't have 12 volts at the S termal on Solinod. :nod:
 

Tighthead123

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I would love to know how to adjust the switch. I could reinstall it and adjust, see if that solves my problem, if it doesn’t I can replace.
 

bubba22349

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Ok here we go. After the Net. Saf. switch is reinstalled next put the shifter is in its neutral gear position. There is a hole in the neutral saftey switch that you put a # 43 drill bit (shank end) into that hole. Now turn the switch right or left slowly on its mousing bolts until you feel the drill bit go into the hole all the way. This is the perfect alignment position now tighten down your two bolts and remove the drill bit. Check the shifters operation the car should now start only in neutral or park. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
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