Starter won’t stop

[Tighthead123]

Had to take a break from car. I was having construction done at my house.
New distributor came today. HEI A team performance
My number one issue is having 12 volts at S terminal when key is turned to ON. Ignition switch is new.
Neutral safety switch is adjusted properly. Electronic choke is hooked up to STA on alternator.
Could S and I wire be touching somewhere. Heat from headers fused them??? Not sure what to check next.
been following this wiring diagram as reference. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/922/iMekJi.jpg

 

[bubba22349]

This dosen't make sense having 12 volts at the S termanil when the key is on. There has to be a wire hooked up wrong or two connected togeather somewhere. The above picture is kind of small with my limited vision I can't make much of it out though it's probably ok. My best guess not being able to see the wire runs is that you may have one or two wire hookups still wrong going to the Solinod. Trace each wire back from Solinod and for heat damaged sections by your headers or you can run a couple new wires from the firewall conection to S terminal or all the way from ignisntion switch.

The one Red Blue stripe wire from ignistion switch (in the start position) to the firewall conection of the netural saftey switch going through it when in Park or Netural and then over to the S terminal on the Solinod, this is the only conection needed to turn the starter over. If you have 12 volts with key on then it could be wired wrong or is getting a back feed voltage from another wire. Disconnect the Red Blue stripe wire from the S term. with the key on do you still get 12 volts at the Red / Blue wire or at the S term.?

Next I see in your above picture that you have a wire going to the I termanial, what is that wire hooked up to? If you disconnect that I termanial wire and you turn the key on dose it read 12 volts at the wire or I term.? If it dose at the wire then leave it unhooked and tape it up, now do you still have 12 volts at the S & I terminals with the key on? If not now rehook up the Red Blue wire to the S term. Then try turn turning the key to start if it cranks the engine over your ready to go when your distribor is fixed. Good luck

 

[Tighthead123]

Ok well I found my problem. When I changed the accessory fuse I pushed the connectors together instead of fuse going between them. The fuse box is really hard to get a good luck at. So my guess is it was sending a constant 12 volts to the switch. As soon as I pried connectors apart and put fuse back in no more 12 volts at S wire when key is turned to ON. I really appreciate all the advice and patience. Can’t wait to throw in the new distributor. Ran a wire from ignition to 30 amp relay for 12 volts to distributor. I got rid of pink wire like other poster suggested. Thanks again. I disconnected “I” wire from solenoid since it is no longer needed.

 

[bubba22349]

Congrats on sticking with it until you found where it was and then repaired the problem, its strange sometimes how such a small item can cause so much trouble. Won't be long now and you will be driving and enjoying that car, best of luck

 

[chad]

yeah, lets stick w/it to the end.
Aint seen that yet...

 

[Thomasd90]

Battery is over 12 volts. 12.41 at terminals.
At positive side of solenoid from battery it tests over 12 volts. When I turn ignition to start and test I post of terminal it is 4.5 volts, same at S post and post going to Starter rachat de credit tresorerie. Ignition has over 12 volts. I unhooked wires going to neutral switch. It’s 12 volts at the connection on firewall coming from ignition switch.
Positive side of solenoid has wire from battery and wire going to alternator
I post is from ignition/ neutral switch.
S post has wire to carb for electric choke, wire to distributor and wire to tachometer.
Last post has wire going to starter.

You can cut that at the fuses you know, while you wait to fix it.