t5 install in a 61 chero help

Dragonlich1961

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looking to install a t5 in my 61'. im using a 68 block 200 with dual pattern. i have a 9 inch diaphram clutch and a c7 bell. trans is a t5 from a v8 95 mustang(sn95). i know i need to swap the input and front bearing retainer for a 93- down unit.
the question is about the shifter location. MDL says you have to use the front shif(s10) location, but this seams very far forward. i though about using the rear postion(fox) just i'm not sure about it's to be comfratable with the bench. i will have to fabricate a crossmember due to the lack of the mustang style trans brace under the floor. mine uses a more tradicional style framerail to frame rail style. meaning no shifter box to crossmeber issues. i want a very period interior but not origanal.
 

StarDiero75

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Actual position with MDL front shift position in my 65 Ranchero. Without the tail housing you're going through the crossmember in the car. Check the thread about the install of a T5 in a 65 Falcon, should be the same. There are more pics on that thread. I'm using the same setup you are except a different model of T5.

If you have any questions, let me know.

viewtopic.php?f=76&t=80158
 

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powerband

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... put a Fox Mustang T5 in my '63 4 Dr Wagon with a bench seat. Although my feet reach the ground, I'm on the short side of the size chart. I have no problem with the stock Mustang shifter position except the tranny crossmember is in a particularly bad location exactly where the shifter box winds up.

I did need to fab an adaptor to move the shifter forward to clear the top part of the bench seat in the position I need it - forward, but the shifter is in the perfect ergonomic position .

The DS hump crossmember situation can be remedied in a number of ways. My approach is to use the availablqe C4 "conversion" mount modified to fit the T5.

A simple option is the widely available "C4 Conversion" tranny mount for 62-65 Falcon/Comet. The T5 shift box typically interferes with tunnel arch support and needs cutting away and degrades structure integrity. A simple setup with the "C4 Conversion" is to extend across to frame connectors to tighten drive train.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/61-65-FORD-FALC ... QS&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1961-65-Fal ... mx&vxp=mtr



Bench seat '63 with NWC T5 (84 5.0)

. .



have fun
 

Dragonlich1961

Well-known member
That's the odd ball thing about my 61. It's based on a 60 chassis. I don't have that crossmember, my transmission crossmember bolts from framerail to framerail. I do not have that drop out section.
Ergonomics is more key then originality. To me the s10 location seams like it would have a truck like feel, far to reach and because the handle is so long it means my hand moves further to shift. I don't know how either feels.
 

StarDiero75

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Dragonlich1961":bztq1bo2 said:
That's the odd ball thing about my 61. It's based on a 60 chassis. I don't have that crossmember, my transmission crossmember bolts from framerail to framerail. I do not have that drop out section.
Ergonomics is more key then originality. To me the s10 location seams like it would have a truck like feel, far to reach and because the handle is so long it means my hand moves further to shift. I don't know how either feels.
If you don't have the crossmember you gotta do some welding man, that stinks.

I personally liked where it put mine since it looks factory, and the length and way the shifter bends, its extremely ergonomic. my hand comes off the wheel and boom there it is. I have a short throw tranny and so it doesn't move as far as you'd normally think it would. Like i said, with just how things worked on mine, its very ergonomic.

Good luck man!
 

Dragonlich1961

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Welding isn't a concern, fixed floors, a pillars, b pillars, doors, hood, bed floor, quarters, roof. Ill have to adapt the new trans mount to my old crossmember, I just won't have to worry about a shifter box hitting something, other than the floor.
Just don't want to spend 700 for the mdl kit and not have it be right for me.
How did the front shift conversion go on your trans.
 

StarDiero75

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Dragonlich1961":14xfemlp said:
Welding isn't a concern, fixed floors, a pillars, b pillars, doors, hood, bed floor, quarters, roof. Ill have to adapt the new trans mount to my old crossmember, I just won't have to worry about a shifter box hitting something, other than the floor.
Just don't want to spend 700 for the mdl kit and not have it be right for me.
How did the front shift conversion go on your trans.
It went pretty smoothly other than I split the roll pin where the shifter forks are when i was reassembling it all. I ended up not needing any of the shims i got, and it actually got a tighter input shaft bearing clearance than before. my input shaft has absolutely no wiggle and is very free to turn. All in all it probably took about 2 hours to take it apart and reassemble minus the roll pin mess.

I didn't really want to spend the money, but this is my daily, and having less jerry rigged parts to me sounds nice lol. I'd rather spend the money, have it done right, and look real good then save a few bucks and worry about it. I went 3 years driving with a clutch and tranny that shuddered every time i went into gear, that time was over lol. I also don't have equipment for welding, nor can I weld, so cutting the crossmember and welding in something for structure was out of the question.

Ryan
 

StarDiero75

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Dragonlich1961":133qfwos said:
What shifter did you use?
It came with a shifter on it. If i bought another one I'd go with a factory looking one from MDL. I honestly don't know what or where its from, but it works very nicely. I can get you measurements if you want for how far it travels. But like i said, mine is a short throw, but with a long shifter so it saves me some
 

Dragonlich1961

Well-known member
Measurements would be nice. Mine came with a steeda Trix shifter. Which sweetend the deal. 340 with shifter. For a relatively clean unit, guy pulled it because he put in an 03 cobra drivetrain.
If I use the fox shifter location then I'm looking at using a Hurst shifter 5388620. Design for bench seat. So it brings the shifter forward to clear the seat then back.
Anybody have tips for installing the t5 adapter for the bell housing and dealing with the two holes you have to drill.
 

powerband

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Adaptor plate I used -(CJ Pony) 6 bolt SBF to T5 fits the C7ZA bell but lower left fastener falls on the edge of BH. Adapter is made for Toploader BH apps' but not specifically for the 3.03 - C7ZA 200' BH. It needed the BH drilled and adaptor tapped for that location. I was able to move fastener location slightly up and drill through the thicker "outline" area of the BH,then tapped the adapter's plate and bolt (3/8") from the inside of the BH to the plate.



 

Dragonlich1961

Well-known member
Got my bell housing adapter installed. I'm actually using a c6 bell from a bronco, cast iron. The recommended adapter from pony car worked flawlesslly. Didn't have to drill any extra holes just changed out the two bolts on the inside of the bell housing for socket head bolts and a little carful grinding and fits flawlessly.
Measuring places the shifter at a comfortable spot and very sporty. Very tight to the bench and I now have a set of first gen mustang buckets(testing) and the fit of everything feels right.
 

powerband

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You will be very happy with the T5. Cruising at modest RPM down the interstate in OD or rowing the shifter on back-roads. the T5 offers the right gears for maximizing the small block six powerband. .

I was wondering what your rear end ratio is?.

have fun

'61 with buckets':


250/ '91 Cobra Z T5 / 8"-3.80 posi / Traction devices, weighted clutch ,. ...
 

Dragonlich1961

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With the 3.73 ratio and a 215 70 14 tire and the . 68 overdrive it should cruise at 2200 @70. But still have plenty of power. All while cruising in comfort and ac.
Weber 32/36 should allow for decent gas millage as well.
 

StarDiero75

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Dragonlich1961":308kg4qk said:
With the 3.73 ratio and a 215 70 14 tire and the . 68 overdrive it should cruise at 2200 @70. But still have plenty of power. All while cruising in comfort and ac.
Weber 32/36 should allow for decent gas millage as well.
Thats not bad man. Mines a 2.8 with 215 14 tire and .81 OD, which puts me at about 2000 @70. I'll be camming and putting a 2V head on mine to boost my low end torque.

Good luck man, post pics when you're done
 

Dragonlich1961

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Engine is a 68 200 rebuilt with a comp 260h 110 lobe seperation 32/36 Weber and a ds2 recurved by wsa111 running an msd6al box. Shaved 78 head to compensate for gaskets and to increase compression to about 9.0.
Rear axle is a narrowed Ford 8.8 explorer drum brake 28 spline 3.73 posi unit. Front is. V8 disc brakes.
I even figured out a way to install vintage air, the in-dash unit. Not the under-dash.
I have a giant pile of parts waiting on me to finish sheet metal work.
 
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