Takes Forever to Start!!!

MercuryMarc

Well-known member
My 69 200 six with a Holley 1940 carb takes forever to start- so I rebuilt the carb and the problem is the same, maybe worse. Also has new fuel filter.
Starts right up if warm. Cranks for 10 seconds then starts if sitting for 8 hours. Takes 20 seconds if sitting for a few days. If sitting for a week, takes 30 seconds of cranking, then waiting a minute, and cranking 30 more seconds, then waiting a few minutes, then fires right up. It might be my imagination but the problem may be worse if the I park facing uphill (happens sometimes at work) - have not tried facing downhill but I'm tempted. I thought I might have had a leaking carb float chamber - I wonder if I have a bad fuel pump or leaking gas line. Maybe a float setting issue? I'd appreciate any suggestions or next steps...
Thanks in advance-
Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop
69 200 six/C4 tranny
Dual Cupholders
78 200 six block in my garage - will be swapped in this winter
http://mercurycomet.net
 
Might not even be a fuel problem. Might be ignition system, such as coil, wires, plugs, distributor. Look down into carb and make sure pump is working and choke is closing when engine is cold. If all is well here, ignition is suspect. Also make sure there are no vacuum leaks........
 
Maybe a bad fuel pump is allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank? That would explain it being worse facing uphill.
Joe
 
I had the same problem a few months ago, I replaced the fuel pump with a Borg-Warner brand and it starts like a gem now. The cheap AutoZone one was only 3 months old.
 
Mitee, Lazy, and Fairmont-
Thanks for the suggestions-
I have new plugs, wires, and a pertonix breakerless unit with the flamethrower coil. It acutually runs quite nicely once it starts. I played with the choke settings and idle mixture screw last night (sorry neighbors!) and this morning it started right up.
I will replace the fuel pump and we'll see how that works. I'll also get some starter spray and check for vacuum leaks.
Thanks again-
Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop
69 200/C4 tranny - soon to swap in a 78 200
Dual Cupholders and Dual Fuzzy Dice
http://mercurycomet.net
 
Bear in mind that even if the fuel pump is weak, the carb bowl still has fuel in it and the engine should start and run. My Fairmont pump was weak, but the only way I knew it was that it would "run out of gas" under hard acceleration. The pump couldn't keep up with the engine demand. Good luck!!
 
still, isnt there a level that will have the gas drain BACK into pump if it is weak...I forget what its called....thus creating a fuel-starved situation

heck, its worth the $20 to find out if its your pump....
 
In my experinece its most efficent to check spark first. I suggest you do the usual thing of pulling a plug out, earthing it, crank the motor and check for spark. Even if you get spark do the check I've described below, maybe your spark isn't fat enough.

Check that your coil is getting 12 volts when your cranking the engine. The coil should have 2 wires going to it, 1 is connected to the ignition switch and in between the switch and the coil is a resistor (either a small white block or the wire itself) which drops the voltage from 12 to about 7 volts. The coil uses power from here after the engine has started. The voltage drop stops the coil from overheating.

When you crank the engine the ignition switch is sending voltage to the starter solenoid, only when that happens the starter solenoid sends a full 12 volts to the coil, but only while the engine is cranking.

The reason for the 2 sysytems is that when the starter switches on it takes a very large current, if the coil only had the wire connection designed for 7 volts it might drop even lower, just when you need a big fat spark. Good luck.

Dom
 
Thanks everyone.

The new fuel pump arrives soon so I'll install it and then see if I need to mess with the ignition and vacuum systems afterwards.

Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop
69 200/C4 tranny - soon to swap in a 78 200
Dual Cupholders and Dual Fuzzy Dice
http//mercurycomet.net[/i]
 
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