TFI to Duraspark 2, not cranking

Hey folks, I know the duraspark 2 conversion has been beat to death but I’m encountering a problem I can’t seem to trace down.

1985 F150, scrapped feedback carb, TFI distributor, EGR valve, air pump, and used the Painless conversion wiring. I’ve got the carb, distributor with vacuum advance, duraspark box, and duraspark coil. I can’t seem to get it to crank at all. Grounded the starter solenoid direct to negative of battery for good measure and replaced it and still can’t get it to crank. Also jumped it with key on and won’t crank that way either. I still have all the old wiring hanging out in the truck until I can figure this out. Anybody got any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 

sixtseventwo4d

Well-known member
Apply battery voltage to the "S" post on the starter solenoid. If it clicks but doesn't crank then you need to use a meter/test light on the starter cable post and see if its passing voltage to the starter when you apply the voltage again at the solenoid. if it doesn't click then the solenoid is bad.
 
Thanks sixtseventwo4d, I already have a motor craft brand solenoid ordered to cover my bases and will be trying that out tonight or tomorrow. We run out of light quickly and it’s snowing like crazy here today. Thanks again
 

bubba22349

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Have you tested the starter motor yet? You can get them tested at many auto parts stores for free. Or you can do it yourself by momentarily touching the starter cable stud direct with a jumper cable hooked to the battery Posative post by passing the Solinod. If you are unsure about the trucks grounds hook the other jumper cable up to the starter case mounting or to the engine block to see if the starter will turn over properly. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 

B RON CO

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Hi, the first thing, as mentioned, is to jump the big post with the battery cable lead to the small "s" post. This eliminates the ignition switch and neutral safety switch. If the solenoid is good a good battery will spin a good starter. Next, with the "s" post wire disconnected, check for voltage with a test light while a helper turns the key to start. The "s" post should only be hot when the key is in the start position. Good luck
 

B RON CO

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Hi, the first thing, as mentioned, is to jump the big post with the battery cable lead to the small "s" post. This eliminates the ignition switch and neutral safety switch. If the solenoid is good a good battery will spin a good starter. Next, with the "s" post wire disconnected, check for voltage with a test light while a helper turns the key to start. The "s" post should only be hot when the key is in the start position. Good luck
 
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