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Anonymous
Guest
I just bought a 61 falcon for $150 and have so far pulled the engine for rebuild and thought I would ask for a few opinions on the 170 before I spend alot of money on it.
kukm66
Famous Member
Find a late model 200 and rebuild it. Scrap the 170 but keep the externals such as the timing cover, pulleys, etc. Late model 250 heads from the 70's are sought after, in particular 77 thru 80. You can have them milled down to regain compression and use them on the 200 block. Check to see if the 200 engine block has been rebuilt or if it is virgin. Take your time and ask around until you find one.
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
It all depends on what you want?? Stock, slight performance, or high performance???
Stock keep and rebuild the 170 (2.8 L ) not a bad motor.
200 (3.3 L ) slight performance.
For a little more trouble the 250 cu. (4. something L )
Tim
Stock keep and rebuild the 170 (2.8 L ) not a bad motor.
200 (3.3 L ) slight performance.
For a little more trouble the 250 cu. (4. something L )
Tim
Howdy JB:
And welcome to THe Forum.
Tell us more about your '61 Falcon. The 170 was the Big engine option in '61. What trans? My suggestion is to first assess what you have. Read here and get a Shop Manual for your year. It will have lots of useful info and how to. When you do your tune-up add an additional 5 degrees of advance to the initial advance setting over stock specs. The 170 in a light round body Falcon can be fun.
Is your carb a Holley with a glass fuel bowl on the side?
After you've got everything working like it should and have studied and decided which way you want to go, report back and we can be more specific. It makes no sense to offer suggestions now when we know so little. Know that much can be done to improve on what you have, both in terms of economy, performance, driveability and dependability.
Check and report the head casting code, found on the intake log behind the carb. The block casting code is on the passengers side of the engine under the exhaust manifold.
Enjoy the journey.
Adios, David
And welcome to THe Forum.
Tell us more about your '61 Falcon. The 170 was the Big engine option in '61. What trans? My suggestion is to first assess what you have. Read here and get a Shop Manual for your year. It will have lots of useful info and how to. When you do your tune-up add an additional 5 degrees of advance to the initial advance setting over stock specs. The 170 in a light round body Falcon can be fun.
Is your carb a Holley with a glass fuel bowl on the side?
After you've got everything working like it should and have studied and decided which way you want to go, report back and we can be more specific. It makes no sense to offer suggestions now when we know so little. Know that much can be done to improve on what you have, both in terms of economy, performance, driveability and dependability.
Check and report the head casting code, found on the intake log behind the carb. The block casting code is on the passengers side of the engine under the exhaust manifold.
Enjoy the journey.
Adios, David
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Anonymous
Guest
thanks david I was just sitting here trying to figure out where all the castings are.
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Anonymous
Guest
maybe this is the code dode-6090-a from the intake from the block I found c8de-6015-a I looked up the block and found it to be 68 falcon but nothing else.
That suggests a 1970 model of head; as you state the block is from 1968.
I think we can safely say the head and block aren't original! There is a good chance that it's a 200 already. Can you look into the spark plug holes and see if the pistons are flat-tops (170), or if they're a stepped dish (200)?
I think we can safely say the head and block aren't original! There is a good chance that it's a 200 already. Can you look into the spark plug holes and see if the pistons are flat-tops (170), or if they're a stepped dish (200)?
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Anonymous
Guest
ive already pulled the motor and broken it down the pistons are flat top and it is a 4 main
3½" bores?
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Anonymous
Guest
so I do have the 170, I still need to decide if this will be sporty enough will it hang with the ricers
The short answer is "No". It's an engine capable of brisk performance when slightly modded, but is never a screamer in street trim.
However - if you're slightly skilled in old-school hotrodding, a reground cam and DIY twin carbs will get plenty more looks than a ricer.
However - if you're slightly skilled in old-school hotrodding, a reground cam and DIY twin carbs will get plenty more looks than a ricer.
Howdy Back JB and All:
The good news is that you have a block plumbed for hydraulic lifters and cam. Did you get the adjustible rocker arms and push rods from the original head?
FYI 6090 is FomoCo code for cylinder heads. The 1st four digits tell you the date of the engineering change for that head. 6015 indicates a cylinder block.
Take a close look at the head. Are the intake valve faces 1.65" diameter? Does the carb hole measure 1.75" diameter. IF so you got a much better head than a '61 vintage.
I'm off to Denver for a few days, then heading south to thaw out til March. I didn't wnat you to think I ran out on you. There are many here who can carry on if you have any questions or need advice/ideas.
Adios, David
The good news is that you have a block plumbed for hydraulic lifters and cam. Did you get the adjustible rocker arms and push rods from the original head?
FYI 6090 is FomoCo code for cylinder heads. The 1st four digits tell you the date of the engineering change for that head. 6015 indicates a cylinder block.
Take a close look at the head. Are the intake valve faces 1.65" diameter? Does the carb hole measure 1.75" diameter. IF so you got a much better head than a '61 vintage.
I'm off to Denver for a few days, then heading south to thaw out til March. I didn't wnat you to think I ran out on you. There are many here who can carry on if you have any questions or need advice/ideas.
Adios, David
rommaster2
Well-known member
jamyers":1b7d28q6 said:Who cares about them? Enjoy having a car that's FAR cooler, and so much easier to work on that it's just funny.jb350":1b7d28q6 said:
Oh, and WELCOME to the forum!!!
its true, theres a few serious ricers at my work (two drive 94 integras with late model DOHC swaps in em) and all of em even though they know thier cars are faster then mine think the fact that its old school, easy to work on, and doesn't need smog are way cool. Shoot mines even a four door
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Anonymous
Guest
mines also a four door Ill try and get up a few pix tonight. or if you have a myspace account I have some on there. http://www.myspace.com/Jessie_Barnes
THis 170 vs 200 discussion is a popular thread, here's my take on it:
KISS is my first rule.. Keep it simple stu....
I have a great running 170 that I removed from a '71 MAverick along with most other parts. I currently have it in my DD, a '63 wagon. I built a full performance log head (Thanks - Falcon Six Performance Handbook) for a 250 conversion and wanted to test it on a stock known-good block. The head has lots of work but the block is stock C8xx 170 with OEM points dizzy. I did put a new cam timing set to freshen it.
With the price of gas going through the roof, I want to keep it as drivable as possible and the 170 adds a MPG premium. Actually I have the head milled @ .090 (48cc HC) and am using a steel shim head gasket so my CR is @ 10:1. With premium and a heavy foot, I'm getting @ 20 MPG. It will interstate cruise with the T5 Overdrive / 3.50 stock rear.
With a stock CR and mild 2Bbl , you could probably get 25 MPG on regular octane with the 170 and still have fun ( I'm running the 5200 2Bbl & Headers - T5).
Powerband
KISS is my first rule.. Keep it simple stu....
I have a great running 170 that I removed from a '71 MAverick along with most other parts. I currently have it in my DD, a '63 wagon. I built a full performance log head (Thanks - Falcon Six Performance Handbook) for a 250 conversion and wanted to test it on a stock known-good block. The head has lots of work but the block is stock C8xx 170 with OEM points dizzy. I did put a new cam timing set to freshen it.
With the price of gas going through the roof, I want to keep it as drivable as possible and the 170 adds a MPG premium. Actually I have the head milled @ .090 (48cc HC) and am using a steel shim head gasket so my CR is @ 10:1. With premium and a heavy foot, I'm getting @ 20 MPG. It will interstate cruise with the T5 Overdrive / 3.50 stock rear.
With a stock CR and mild 2Bbl , you could probably get 25 MPG on regular octane with the 170 and still have fun ( I'm running the 5200 2Bbl & Headers - T5).
Powerband
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Anonymous
Guest
yeah Im begining to believe Ill keep the 170, I like the idea of better gas mileage I think as long as my block checks out ok when it goes to the machine shop Ill just keep it simple.
