mainline331
Active member
Does anyone know where I can get the large cam gear for my 226? Job lot doesnt have any. I prefer the metal one, but I dont have the hub.
Thanks
Thanks
Timing gear for a 226
- Thread starter mainline331
- Start date
fmartin_gila
Well-known member
Did you try Egge? Or Hemmings?
Fred
Fred
mainline331
Active member
thanks for the tip- I saw those and emailed them about the year interchange- they posted 1948 and earlier, I think...will it still work on a 1950, or is there a difference?
Looks like there was a difference in 1947 or 1948, depending on whether the engine was from a car or truck.
Rock Auto and NAPA still list the 226 cam gear for 1948 & up trucks as Cloyes part #2726, and they both say that it's a 48-tooth fiber gear.
My Dennis Carpenter catalog lists press-on and bolt-on gears for 1947 & down trucks that are 44-tooth. There are allso press-on and bolt-on versions, depending on which camshaft was installed.
Rock Auto and NAPA still list the 226 cam gear for 1948 & up trucks as Cloyes part #2726, and they both say that it's a 48-tooth fiber gear.
My Dennis Carpenter catalog lists press-on and bolt-on gears for 1947 & down trucks that are 44-tooth. There are allso press-on and bolt-on versions, depending on which camshaft was installed.
The switch over from the earlier G series engine to the later H series was made as a running change during the 1947 model year. The cam gear was changed at that time by reversing the angle of the 48 teeth. The attachment of the gear to the cam continued to be by four bolts. Sometime later, the attachment was changed to press on and the bolts were no longer used. Its my understanding that the earlier bolt on H gear can be used with the later cams by pressing on the matching flange if you should want to. There are changes to the chamfer where the nose of the cam meets the front bearing journal, some are fileted, some are square and some are undercut. Do not use the square cut gear on the fileted cam, it can cause interference. Some of the very early H cams have a different number of cam and oil pump drive gear teeth than the later ones which have 10 teeth. There is a post somewhere in this topic concerning this and the early cams require an oil pump drive gear that is bronze and hard to find. Use only aluminum cam gears. Be aware they came in several oversizes, I think .006 and .012 to take up wear in the crank gear. I saw those gears on ebay, they were fiber, not good!!!
mainline331
Active member
yes, thanks for the advice....
I live near Egge, so I will check out their stock tomorrow- I would really prefer the aluminum one....
My flywheel is in Speedomotive right now, one of the few places that will lighten a flywheel. Got my head back, looks good at .090, they did good work. My cam is in the mail to schneider.
I need to come up with exhaust valves, as mine dont have much left on the margin.
Looks like a .100 extra BB Chevy exhaust valve (1.88) might work on the intake, but the tip is a little different in length. Do you know of any other larger intake valve swaps?
I live near Egge, so I will check out their stock tomorrow- I would really prefer the aluminum one....
My flywheel is in Speedomotive right now, one of the few places that will lighten a flywheel. Got my head back, looks good at .090, they did good work. My cam is in the mail to schneider.
I need to come up with exhaust valves, as mine dont have much left on the margin.
Looks like a .100 extra BB Chevy exhaust valve (1.88) might work on the intake, but the tip is a little different in length. Do you know of any other larger intake valve swaps?
New 226/254 exhaust valves are available. The .100 chevy big block valves with the smaller than stock .341 stems are readily available, fit in your existing guides but if installed the heads are very very close to the head gaskets and exhaust hard seats. Maybe better to cut them down to 1.780, still a 1/8 inch increaseover stock 226. Could be done in a lathe or valve grinding machine. The grove problem could be resolved by cutting a new groove closer to valve head in the same relative position as stock Ford. Be aware that 1951 valves are different in that the groove is made for free turning valves.
greaseball
New member
I don't know if these images worked, but i think this is the gear you need. I've had this forever and didn't know what it went to. It looks NOS and has the ford script and USA on it. It is aluminum with steel hub. The steel hub has a some surface rust that would clean with some scotch brite. It is 7" in diameter, and has a 1" bore, 48 teeth. I am positive that i will never use this. If you want it, give me a call. 805-431-4719.
Thanks,
Shane[/img]
mainline331
Active member
looks like the right gear- I will call you. Thanks!
-James
-James
