too many alternators to choose from

[mavereq]

i definitely need to upgrade my alternator. my headlights dim when i drop to an idle. i looked some up online and came up with way too many options. what are some of you running? amps? part number?

 

[sixpony]

I'm still using what I assume is a stock replacement alternator, I'm pretty sure its not the original, but when the stock mechanical voltage regulator died I replaced it with a solid state from "the zone" and that cured my flickering lights, think it was the points in the old reg opening and closing, the solid state was around 30 bucks, cheaper than an alternator.

 

[Ranger_gone_straight]

Nothing wrong with the traditional Ford alternator with separate regulator. But long ago I got into going with cheapest alternator with built in regulator so I didnt have to purchase both alternator and regulator (warranty void on rebuilt alternator if you dont replace the regulator same time on vehicles with separate regulator). That means the ubiquitous 63A GM alternator from the seventies that are like $25 at Autozone last time I bought one. They fit the Ford brackets with addition of some washers so not exactly brain surgery. Anything I have owned that needed an alternator whatever make, thats what I put on. I've put them on tractors, Dodges, Fords, Volvos, VWs, various Japanese vehicles if there is enough room. So on. The exception was old '72 Courier I used to have. Not enough room for GM alternator, it had a Hitachi alternator with separate regulator. I owned and drove that thing for 15 years, still had the Hitachi alternator it came with when I sold it, though I replaced regulator with an aftermarket solid state regulator made for '60s era GM, like $7 compared to the replacement Hitachi regulator for like $40. Just had to look up the wiring and splice things together. That Hitachi was one long lasting alternator, cant ever dispute that. Only put out like 30A but that was enough.

 

[Ranger_gone_straight]

Also what is your idle rpm. The alt light comes on my old Ford pickup (GM alternator) when I stop at a light and it idles like 500 to 600 rpm. When rpm goes over 800rpm, the light goes out. Just way things are and setting idling for short time at stop light without alternator charging isnt going to hurt anything. I could raise idle to 800rpm so light never comes on, but it would just burn that much more gas. Or I could try to find a smaller alternator pulley so alternator turns faster relative to the speed of the engine, but just never felt the need. I know why its doing it, alternators just have to turn certain speed before they start producing current, simple as that. So doesnt get me all excited. Now if the light stayed on at higher rpm, then time to check things out.

If your lights significantly dim when alternator cuts out at idle, might be time to check your battery...

 

[rbohm]

If your lights significantly dim when alternator cuts out at idle, might be time to check your battery...

8) ding ding ding, we have a winner here. if the battery turns out to be fine though, check your connections and make sure the terminals are clean.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

On the issue of size, let me add that my plan is to install a 100 Amp unit, provided I can replace the Ammeter with a Voltmeter that looks right. One reason cars went from Ammeters to Voltmeters is that a 100 Amp Alternator can fry a 60 Amp Ammeter, but amperage makes no difference to a Voltmeter.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

That would apply to Fords IF they were true amp meters , BUT they work off a shunt , Chryslers of the pre 80's and down were only the ones with true ampmeters,( industrial equipment aside ) and unfortunatly many burnt to the ground because of it , Amp Meters do not belong in cars , Volt meters yes